Fuel Vaporization Using Eddy Carb -- In-Line Fuel Pump Question

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A couple thoughts. Aluminum carbs tend to be a little worse than zinc for hot restarts. If you get a Holley, stay away from the aluminum bodied versions. E10 gas makes anything harder to hot-restart, try some non-ethanol gas if available in your area.

This helped the heat soak on my Wagoneer, which had underhood temps somewhere near the surface of the sun. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-97/

If you use an electric pump, don't feed through the mechanical, bypass it. If the mechanical pump fails, the engine will keep running and the crankcase will fill with gasoline remarkably quickly.
 
What if you ran a return line from the Edelbrock carb, using the other intake port, using fuel to cool the carb? Or is this just a dumb idea?
 
I think I may have found the source of my problem (have to crank up after running a few minutes to get fuel to carb).

So I have the 1406 eddie carb in my 72 cuda with a 318. I have a vacuum canister, but the carb fuel bowl line was never hooked up, because there was no place to hook it to in the carb. Take a look at the eddie pic below. It shows a fuel vapor bowl line near the fuel inlet, but ONLY for the 1400 model. So is that my problem, in that I need to hook that up, but can't with the 1406 model?

carb-jpg.1767695
 
You wrap your lines near the engine? Filet some hose big enough to fit over the steel line and pop it over as far as you can. Should help. Make sure your gas cap is venting, or that you have a two way vent in the tank.

If you do end up getting another carb, my pick is the QuickFuel Slayer with a wideband Got it on amazon for $320, wideband was $160. I'll help you tune that sucker in too! :D
 
PoisonDart74 said:
You wrap your lines near the engine? Filet some hose big enough to fit over the steel line and pop it over as far as you can. Should help. Make sure your gas cap is venting, or that you have a two way vent in the tank.

If you do end up getting another carb, my pick is the QuickFuel Slayer with a wideband Got it on amazon for $320, wideband was $160. I'll help you tune that sucker in too! :D
Click to expand...

Thanks but, I don't know what you just said. Wrap lines? Filet over steel lines?
Are you suggesting heat is the problem, because I am pretty sure it is not. At least, not the root cause.
 
Yes, cut the hose down the middle and pop it over your fuel line in hot areas. Like pipe insulation.

Ported from jalopyjournal:

Vapor lock doesn't happen between the pump and the carb, it happens between the tank and the pump. The suction of the pump lowers the pressure in the line and a t the same time lowers the evaporation point of the fuel. So if you have a restriction or a hot spot in the line the fuel evaporates before it gets to the pump. The pump won't pump enough vapors to run the engine.
So check for areas where the line runs close to the exhaust system or lays downstream of heat from the exhaust. Best way: drive it till it falters, crawl underneath and run your hand down the fuel line feeling for hot spots. They'll be easy to find.
Check for restrictions: smashed lines, plugged lines, plugged pickup filters and the most insidious of them all the deteriorated rubber line on top of the tank.
Get the flow specs for your car and check the fuel pump output cold. If it's not to spec see above before you replace the pump. While a new pump may cure the problem it is likely due to other causes and will recur if the pump you have is fairly new and will pump to spec from a container that eliminates the present fuel system. Disable the ignition. Take your emergency fuel supply can and a short piece of the proper size hose and hook to the inlet side of the pump. Another piece of hose on outlet into a graduated container. Crank for specified time and measure output
If the pump fails both tests replace it. If not, the problem is one of the above.
happy cruzin -6lbone
 
Thanks again, but I don't think it is vapor lock.
It can happen on a cool day same as a hot, and after running just a short while too. It is something else entirely.
 
There was a thread here about a inline check valve. I bought one but didn't install it for a while. I was having trouble with my car being hard to start after it sat for a while. Mainly after i took it out for a drive, then parked it for a month or two. I would have to fill the bowls in my 600 edelbrock before I started it. Otherwise it would crank forever before it would start. The check valve did seen to help this issue a lot.
 
Well, you seem to have the game down, when you figure it out, let us know. :tongue8:
 
Never said anything close to that, and I am asking nicely.
But honestly, timing is SOOO not the problem.

So, back to the carb question. Anybody have any experience with an eddie carb with a vacuum canister tube? Do I need it? Is that my problem?
 
looks like many of us has this problem as I DID took off eddie put back stock thermo. problem went a way so with so many of us having the problem an we did not have these problems when these car were new with stock systems it must be the poor design of the eddie carbs so stay a way from these junk carbs just my $.02 worth
 
cudaracer said:
Thanks again, but I don't think it is vapor lock.
It can happen on a cool day same as a hot, and after running just a short while too. It is something else entirely.
Click to expand...

Try this. Next time you drive it and get it hot, shut it off, take off the air cleaner and watch what happens in the carb. See if fuel is dribbling out inside the throat of the carb, getting the throttle plates wet. If so, the fuel is getting hot, expanding and basically siphoning the float bowls dry, flooding the engine at the same time.

I suspect that is the case and you will need to block off your exhaust crossover in the manifold.
 
Did you try a new fuel cap yet? As far as the vent port goes, just put a rubber cap on it. It's for emissions crap. It only captures the fuel vapors instead of venting to the atmosphere.
 
PoisonDart74 said:
^ save you breath, guy is working on:.

1410208663961.jpg
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Congrats. I have been posting here for a while and this is the first rude thing anyone has suggested.

And to answer your question about timing, I have been all over the map with it, and I finally got someone who knows their stuff, someone on this site, to dial it in for me with a mild cam. And nothing ever changed regarding my fuel to carb issue. So when I said perfect, I meant I don't want to touch it and it never had an effect anyway.

So,
feel free to apologize.
Or not, my life will go on.
 
cudaracer said:
I think I may have found the source of my problem (have to crank up after running a few minutes to get fuel to carb).

So I have the 1406 eddie carb in my 72 cuda with a 318. I have a vacuum canister, but the carb fuel bowl line was never hooked up, because there was no place to hook it to in the carb. Take a look at the eddie pic below. It shows a fuel vapor bowl line near the fuel inlet, but ONLY for the 1400 model. So is that my problem, in that I need to hook that up, but can't with the 1406 model?

carb-jpg.1767695
Click to expand...

Got this info from a book regarding my 72 cuda.

To further reduce evaporative emissions on the 72 E-bodies, Chrysler engineers added a vapor recovery system (charcoal canister) to the fuel system. Engineers maintained fuel system integrity by adding a new pressure-vacuum gas cap to the fuel tank.

Does this info confirm my suspicions, that not having a top mounted fuel vapor return line from the carb to the canister, and the fact I have no vacuum line going to the canister, sound reasonable? I can’t figure out what it all means.
 
I wouldn't think any emissions system would have an effect on starting the engine. Have you had this carb on your engine long or is this a new install and that's when the problem started?
 
cudaracer said:
So when I said perfect, I meant I don't want to touch it and it never had an effect anyway.

So,
feel free to apologize.
Or not, my life will go on.
Click to expand...

Well, you could have said that instead of being arrogant about the question, which was legitimate. I wish you luck with asking, then acting too good to implement suggestion superiority crap isn't gonna solve your carb problem. THAT is why I posted that awesome picture.


I wish you luck fighting with a design issue, it's not the first or last Edelbrock 1406 to have fuel vapor issue. I suggest surfing google for similar carb problems, and see how they dealt with it. But do what your want to do, your going to anyway. :roll:
 
PoisonDart74 said:
Well, you could have said that instead of being arrogant about the question, which was legitimate. I wish you luck with asking, then acting too good to implement suggestion superiority crap isn't gonna solve your carb problem. THAT is why I posted that awesome picture.


I wish you luck fighting with a design issue, it's not the first or last Edelbrock 1406 to have fuel vapor issue. I suggest surfing google for similar carb problems, and see how they dealt with it. But do what your want to do, your going to anyway. :roll:
Click to expand...


Thanks for the reply.
My last resort is a new carb, but I am just avoiding spending $350 plus bucks if I don't have to. Also, I have heard conflicting remarks that the carb is the source, hence my hesitation. And often, it is not just a carb swap that resolves an issue, but how it is hooked up, perhaps something else had an effect like fuel lines, locations, etc.
 
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