Fusable link questions

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pat d

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my fusable link is getting so hot it melted the plastic, it has not blown connector. also the altinator sometimes charges to high. any thoughts? what should i look for?
 
73 duster 340 was a slant6 car with column [ auto] i coverted to floor [auto] steering column is from a floor shift car 73 also. the key switch works some times but most of the time i jump the soliniod the amp meter sometimes goes to H when i turn on the fans it goes just past the middle so what causes the fuseable link to get so hot but not blow
 
There is no "H" on the ammeter. There's a "D" and there's a "C". Honestly, dude? You can't be bothered to provide a clear description of the trouble, so I can't be bothered to help you.
 
A short circuit in the system would blow the fusible link like blowing a fuse. Too much current passing through inadequate connections, undersized wires, etc.. melts the weakest link in the circuit.
 
I think I would be putting a fire extinguisher in the car if you are driving it...
C
 
pat d said:
73 duster 340 was a slant6 car with column [ auto] i coverted to floor [auto] steering column is from a floor shift car 73 also. the key switch works some times but most of the time i jump the soliniod the amp meter sometimes goes to H when i turn on the fans it goes just past the middle so what causes the fuseable link to get so hot but not blow
Click to expand...

Voltage regulator or a break in one of the wires to or from it. If not then in the alternator it is shorting/grounding.
 
pat d said:
73 duster 340 was a slant6 car with column [ auto] i coverted to floor [auto] steering column is from a floor shift car 73 also. the key switch works some times but most of the time i jump the soliniod the amp meter sometimes goes to H when i turn on the fans it goes just past the middle so what causes the fuseable link to get so hot but not blow
Click to expand...

These old girls are getting old, and have a way of developing troubles. a couple of big issues, other than general rust and corrosion that affects any vehicle of this age, is the "full current" ammeter that Mopar used for years, and the bulkhead connector, which was never designed for the current they must pass on a few of the connections.

If you can, you might post some pictures of the bulkhead connector/ starter relay/ fuse link area to illustrate the condition. Another cause of "things getting hot" is just plain loose or corroded connections.

Your starting problem, (jumping the relay / solenoid) could be a few things. If you do NOT have the horrid seat belt interlock system, the general starting path is:

From the big stud on the starter relay, through the fuse link, through the bulkhead connector, to the ammeter, to the ignition switch, back OUT the bulkhead on the yellow "crank" wire, to one of the push-on connectors at the start relay, out the OTHER push-on connector, down to the transmission, to the center pin on the backup lamp/ neutral safety switch, and ground.

If all that works, so far, when you twist the key, the STARTER RELAY will pull in.

NOW the path is--from the big stud on the start relay, which is fed from the battery, through the (now closed) contacts on the start relay, down to the starter small stud which is the solenoid connection.

IF THAT PART WORKS, and also IF the biggest cable going to the starter "big" stud is OK, the starter will "pull in" assuming the solenoid is OK, and crank the engine

So to troubleshoot these problems, you need wiring diagrams, a test lamp, and a multimeter, which you can buy nowadays at any auto store for about 25 bucks.

Download a service manual here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=manual,+download

Or there are some rather "redrawn" diagrams here:

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

some good info here:

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=18

and finally some wiring diagrams:

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73ValiantA.jpg

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73ValiantB.jpg

(True diagram is in the shop manual)
 
pat d said:
73 duster 340 was a slant6 car with column [ auto] i coverted to floor [auto] steering column is from a floor shift car 73 also. the key switch works some times but most of the time i jump the soliniod the amp meter sometimes goes to H when i turn on the fans it goes just past the middle so what causes the fuseable link to get so hot but not blow
Click to expand...
being on the ragged edge of too much load

are the fans wired off a switch, that is wired off the fuse block, that has NO relays carrying the current?
got a kickin' stereo?
looked at the
bulkhead connectors?
fuse block?
steering column connector?

bet you have some melting plastic

good luck :)
 
thanks for the input i will check out these suggestions.1 problem i found out the hard way was the blue wire on the alt. harness on.pass.side of car fried any idea what this blue wire is?Choke for carb? Fans are wired direct to the battery with large fuse.no radio column connector had a melting spot on large red wire ireplaced it.
 
pat d said:
thanks for the input i will check out these suggestions.1 problem i found out the hard way was the blue wire on the alt. harness on.pass.side of car fried any idea what this blue wire is?Choke for carb? Fans are wired direct to the battery with large fuse.no radio column connector had a melting spot on large red wire ireplaced it.
Click to expand...
use the link for the service manual and trace it out. learning how chrysler wiring diagrams work will save you MUCH grief in later life
 
blue wires under the hood should be hot in run. Through 72 model there was only one on the right side of the engine. It goes to obe of the connectors on the alternator to energize the field. In 1973 a small electric choke heater was added so another blue wire was spliced in for that.
 
sorry i was out sweating it out in miami i checked out bulkhead connector cleaned connetions replaced fuseable link replaced blue field wire at the split conn. back to the plug on right side alt. harness fuseable link still gets hot [real hot] i traced harness back from inside bulk head in through the dash to fuse box nothing seems to be broken cracked or worn. could the ign.key switch have something to do with this? the key works sometimes but most of the time it just studders like a dead battery batt. is strong, when i jump start relay it starts this is the 2 new relay any thoughts before i set this thing on fire!! [beside a fire extinguisher]this car has that stupid seatbelt interlock system i replaced the seats in this car from bench to buckets [not stock] light comes on in dash i placed a jump wire in the center seat belt connection but light still stay on does this help
 
thanks for the help /6dan and 67dart273 . i think i traced my problem back to the amp meter/guage behind the dash. my car 73 duster has this box with three prong and cylinder with 1wire that plugs into back of dash/circuit panel. can i bypass this or replace it i looked at some other post but did not see my type,style . sorry about the spelling discriptions ect i am starting to loose my mind
 
NO you cannot bypass that. That is the "voltage limiter" (regulator) for the gauges. the factory original units work sort of like a flasher unit. They "pulse" the 12-14V coming in down to "effective" approx. 5V to operate the gauges. The "round cylinder" is a capacitor (condenser) to supress radio noise/ static.
 
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