fuse box
- Thread starter Nilson767
- Start date
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Uh............um...................duuuuuhhhhhhhhhhhhh...........uhhhhhhhhhhhh
WHAT ARE we working on?
1942 P-40 Warhawk?
1963 Studebaker Hawk?
or a 1928 Farmall Regular?
Most these cars, the fuel gauge is not fused. Does the temp gauge work?
RUSTY!!!!! Where's that dammned crystal ball!!!!???!??!??
WHAT ARE we working on?
1942 P-40 Warhawk?
1963 Studebaker Hawk?
or a 1928 Farmall Regular?
Most these cars, the fuel gauge is not fused. Does the temp gauge work?
RUSTY!!!!! Where's that dammned crystal ball!!!!???!??!??
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
OK great, now for the second answer.....................
Unfortunately no one on here seems to be forthcoming with a '73 shop manual, so I'm not POSITIVE but I believe the wiring is closer to 72 than to '74.
You can download a 72 shop manual here. BE AWARE there may be some wiring differences
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088617
From MyMopar, are somewhat usable wiring diagrams, but these are often incomplete and do not show all connectors, etc
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
Two diagrams:
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73ValiantA.jpg
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73ValiantB.jpg
Notice that the above diagrams, diagram B near top, just show a connector for the cluster and does not show the cluster wiring.
Below is a screen shot of the cluster from the '72 manual which you can download, from page 8-151. No follow along. At the top center find VOLTAGE LIMITER. This is a sort of regulator unit which powers the fuel / temp gauge, and the oil gauge if you have a Rally dash. If you DO have a Rally dash this limiter will be built into / part of the fuel gauge. If you do NOT have a Rally cluster, it will be a little plug - in box which plugs into the back of the cluster.
Notice the "12V" terminal on the bottom of the cluster, follow this to the cluster connector, and down and off to the left G5-20DBL is the wire no. G5 is an arbitrary circuit no. ..... 20 is the wire gauge.....and DBL is the color....Dark BLue
Now, this G5-20DBL you have to follow on the rest of the diagram which is page 8-150 SEE POST BELOW
Unfortunately no one on here seems to be forthcoming with a '73 shop manual, so I'm not POSITIVE but I believe the wiring is closer to 72 than to '74.
You can download a 72 shop manual here. BE AWARE there may be some wiring differences
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088617
From MyMopar, are somewhat usable wiring diagrams, but these are often incomplete and do not show all connectors, etc
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
Two diagrams:
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73ValiantA.jpg
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73ValiantB.jpg
Notice that the above diagrams, diagram B near top, just show a connector for the cluster and does not show the cluster wiring.
Below is a screen shot of the cluster from the '72 manual which you can download, from page 8-151. No follow along. At the top center find VOLTAGE LIMITER. This is a sort of regulator unit which powers the fuel / temp gauge, and the oil gauge if you have a Rally dash. If you DO have a Rally dash this limiter will be built into / part of the fuel gauge. If you do NOT have a Rally cluster, it will be a little plug - in box which plugs into the back of the cluster.
Notice the "12V" terminal on the bottom of the cluster, follow this to the cluster connector, and down and off to the left G5-20DBL is the wire no. G5 is an arbitrary circuit no. ..... 20 is the wire gauge.....and DBL is the color....Dark BLue
Now, this G5-20DBL you have to follow on the rest of the diagram which is page 8-150 SEE POST BELOW
hemitheus
19? Plymouth Scampenstein
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
The reason you need to determine this for sure is that it affects "what might be wrong"
For a "quick check" do this:
Go out and find the temp sender on the engine...........what engine do you have? Remove the sender wire, and ground the wire to the engine with a clip lead. Turn on the key and watch the temp gauge. It should peg in a very short time. Do not leave the key on any longer than you need to find out
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
From my earlier post Now we are following the power to the instrument regulator which was wire G5-20DBL
The wire "going off" the previous page comes onto page 8-150 the top drawing is a crop of that page. Find the 4th wire down, that IS our G5-20DBL. Notice this goes over to the "diamond 3" at top left, then branches and goes down and to the right and off this page where it becomes J2B-12DBL
Now go to the bottom photo. This is where the above wire once again comes onto page 8-151 and goes to the ign switch. So find wire J2B-12DBL coming in from the left, third wire from the top, and you'll find it goes right to the ignition switch.
THIS MEANS that there is NO FUSE in that circuit. The power going to your instrument voltage limiter in the cluster is not fused.
The wire "going off" the previous page comes onto page 8-150 the top drawing is a crop of that page. Find the 4th wire down, that IS our G5-20DBL. Notice this goes over to the "diamond 3" at top left, then branches and goes down and to the right and off this page where it becomes J2B-12DBL
Now go to the bottom photo. This is where the above wire once again comes onto page 8-151 and goes to the ign switch. So find wire J2B-12DBL coming in from the left, third wire from the top, and you'll find it goes right to the ignition switch.
THIS MEANS that there is NO FUSE in that circuit. The power going to your instrument voltage limiter in the cluster is not fused.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Now refer back to the cluster diagram, and find that same G5 wire we started with. Notice that it goes to the very top connector pin, and there are DOTTED LINES off that connector. This is Mopar's way of indicating PC board traces on the back of the cluster. Notice that the same power that feeds your gauges feeds the BRAKE WARNING INDICATOR and the OIL PRESSURE WARNING lamps. What does this mean? Well, do they work? When you turn the key to "run" wth the engine off, the oil lamp should light. If it does, this means that you are getting power "that far."
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
The sad thing, is, when I was born, my Dad could have bought a surplus WWII fighter for very very little money. If he could have he and I both could have retired for what any of 'em are worth now!!!
Could not find a "Kermie Cam" of a P40, but I'd take a Wildcat
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WT0MET8DIAY"]Kermie Cam - Grumman Wildcat - Part 2 - YouTube[/ame]
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cauchJnkvuE"]Kermie Cam - Grumman Wildcat - Part 3 - YouTube[/ame]
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Just about anything you can find. If you are going to work on these cars there's a few things you need.
A shop manual. A FACTORY shop manual. You can find reprints and "on CD" on ebay and around the www
A multimeter. You can buy these at auto stores, Sears, Radio shack and other places
Some clip leads. You can buy different sizes / lengths at Radio Shack
A 12 V test lamp, available at any auto store
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
OK that means you have power up in the cluster, and if it's accurate, you have the voltage limiter working. Here's what is left..............
Poor connections at the fuel gauge in the cluster, poor connection at the rear harness connector in the rear harness, poor connection at the fuel sender or a bad fuel sender, or bad ground at sender.
MOST LIKELY is a bad sender or connections at the sender
So now you get to jack the car up and crawl under there. Do the same thing at the tank sender as you did at the temp sender. The tank sender is right behind the rear axle. Make sure you ground it, and again, turn on the key and watch the gauge.
Did yo download the '72 shop manual?
Poor connections at the fuel gauge in the cluster, poor connection at the rear harness connector in the rear harness, poor connection at the fuel sender or a bad fuel sender, or bad ground at sender.
MOST LIKELY is a bad sender or connections at the sender
So now you get to jack the car up and crawl under there. Do the same thing at the tank sender as you did at the temp sender. The tank sender is right behind the rear axle. Make sure you ground it, and again, turn on the key and watch the gauge.
Did yo download the '72 shop manual?
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I don't understand.........................
You find the wire which connected to the sender under the car. You connect that wire to the automobile body ground. Scrape clean any handy bolt or screw that is part of the body. This is to the fuel gauge the same as what you did up front with the temp gauge.
"App store?" I don't speak that language.
You find the wire which connected to the sender under the car. You connect that wire to the automobile body ground. Scrape clean any handy bolt or screw that is part of the body. This is to the fuel gauge the same as what you did up front with the temp gauge.
"App store?" I don't speak that language.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
The fuel tank has nothing at all to do with this test. THINK about when you tested the temp gauge
1...you removed the wire from the sender
2...You used a jumper wire or clip lead to connect the sender wire to ground
3....You turned the key to "run" and watched the gauge.
You are doing the very same thing now. You are going to ground the WIRE in the harness which was connected to the fuel gauge sender
1...you removed the wire from the sender
2...You used a jumper wire or clip lead to connect the sender wire to ground
3....You turned the key to "run" and watched the gauge.
You are doing the very same thing now. You are going to ground the WIRE in the harness which was connected to the fuel gauge sender
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