Fusible link melted!

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Hersbird said:
The shunt bypass seems like a good idea too, just run a whole new 10 gauge wire around the ammeter?
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Yes. Indeed, just run a wire straight from the alternator output to the battery +, at least for a SB where you can run across the timing cover. In a slant, might be better to run to the starter relay since there is already a big wire to BATT+ from there. If you want to be really clever, look up my post on using a series diode pair that lets your ammeter work at low current and shunts it to battery as it reaches 30 A. I need to do that in my slant and BB too.
 
damn, you guys are making me think about taking a long hard look at my 45 yo wiring harness. I'm no wiring guy, but I see stupidity in that design.
 
I wish somebody had a diagram of how to build a new a body motor harness correctly. I mean guage, wire lengths, connectors, etc. I don't want stock looking, I want up to date. I do love how simple it is at least, I wouldn't dream of trying to re-wire my 95 Grand Cherokee limited!
 
See what you guys think...I replaced my ignition switch and put a circuit breaker where the fuse link goes. Car cranks and charges fine but has a bas miss. Would this be linked to electrical problems?
Thanks
 
Hard to say

1 Did it run OK before you let the smoke out?

2 What have you done to insure you have other problems caused by the original short fixed?

3 What size breaker did you use?

4 What kind of ignition system do you have, exactly?
 
Hersbird said:
I wouldn't dream of trying to re-wire my 95 Grand Cherokee limited!
Click to expand...
I actually stole parts from a similar Grand Cherokee (and Magnum truck) at PickNPull for my 65 Dart. I used the underhood relay box, mini-starter, battery cables, and distributor (down-the-road plans).

Back to your question, yes, just run a bypass wire around the ammeter in the engine bay. No need to pull your dash cluster again. An 8 awg wire won't show much on the ammeter. A 12 awg wire might show ~30% of alternator output current on the ammeter (depending on length and connectors), which might be a good fit if you install a 100 A alternator. I wouldn't go smaller than 12 awg since I recall that is what is wired to the ammeter. Even better is a "variable resistance wire", which is what the parallel diodes I used realize. It shunts a higher percentage around the ammeter as current increases.
 
67dart: yes it ran pretty good before the short, I used a 25a breaker, and I have a factory ignition system.
Bill: are you saying bypass the ammeter to see if it is a short in the wiring under the dash?
 
Gold duster, I think Bill is talking to me.
For your question I think a 25 amp breaker is pretty small. Isn't your alternator putting out up to 40 amps? All of it is going through that breaker. I would just try pulling it out or short it's posts and see if it runs better. Just don't let your smoke out, LOL Dart273.
 
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