Fusible Link Replacement?

[69CudaFan]

Anyone have a good way of replacing a fried fusible link? It is stretchy like a rubber band (and I know why it cooked). Fixed the electrical issue, and ordered a new unit from Classic Industries. It looks like it unhooks easy on one end, the other end connects at the firewall, and looks to be a crimped connection. Stock harness that is relatively unmolested, and as always, any help is appreciated.

 

[krazykuda]

I always strip the end of the fuseable link and the wire that I'm connecting it to, wrap them together and solder it. Then shrink wrap it and at least 3 layers of electrical tape to insulate the connection.

 

[salinasjoel]

On mine the fusible link goes from the voltage regulator to the bulkhead, had to replace it when my ammeter shorted not positive if a 69 is different or maybe it's a different link

 

[Mogre]

Rule of thumb - fuseable link wire should be 4 wire sizes smaller than main feed.
I ran #8 wire from the alternator to the starter relay with last 6 inches of #12 fiseable link wire.

 

[crackedback]

Do you need a connector that fits into the bulkhead connector?

 

[69CudaFan]

It comes with one. One the one end, there is a black clip and a spade, on the other end, it is the spade that goes into the bulkhead connector. Just trying to the the remnants of the old one out without boogering or butchering it badly.

 

[crackedback]

Use a paper clip, small nail to depress the lock tab and gently remove it.

 

[Dave NEO]

where did you find that fusible link? - need one here on '68- How did you remove the end at the bulkhead easily ? thanks

 

[BillGrissom]

... How did you remove the end at the bulkhead ? ...

Same as all those male "57 terminal" terminals. You squeeze longitudinally at the base, as you can see in post 6. That makes it small enough to wiggle back thru the slotted hole. First, remove the foam stuffing to get at the base. I use needle-nose pliers w/ hooked tips. I also have some funky small pliers w/ V-rails, but found them outside and don't know where you would buy them.

 

[Pawned]

I simply replaced my fusible link with a 30 amp fuse. While I was doing the rewire I blew that fuse many many times. fuses are lots cheaper than the fusible link.
I ended up moving the 30 amp fuse to the front of the car so the entire system runs thru it. Blew it yesterday, but that was the first time in almost a year. This way it gives me an easy way to cut all power to the car without removing a battery terminal

 

[Dave NEO]

"squeeze longitudinally at the base", sorry, that is lost on me. Does it pull straight out if you insert a small flatblade?
Pawned: how'd you arrive at 30A? maybe just need a bit bigger?

 

[Pawned]

"squeeze longitudinally at the base", sorry, that is lost on me. Does it pull straight out if you insert a small flatblade?
Pawned: how'd you arrive at 30A? maybe just need a bit bigger?

I knew the 14 AWG could handle 30A so that is what I decided on. I think I started with a 20 but that blew way too fast.
This was over 3 years ago, so memory may be off

 

[Dave NEO]

regarding pic in post #6 - does anyone know what the female receiver end (on the bulkhead connector) looks like inside where it receives/secures the male end of this fusible link? am trying to figure out if it snaps in or something and what is needed to remove the old male end from the bulkhead connector. I could try just pulling it straight out but I do not want to break anything..

 

[KnuckleDuster]

Buy fusible link wire at the store and make your own. Fuses are not a good alternative, Mopar used the link for a reason.

The female has a tab in the middle on the top that sticks up. Use a micro flathead screwdriver to depress the tab and it pulls out the back.

Here"s what they both look like.
I use small needle nose pliers on the males.

You can buy replacements on ebay if needed.

16 pcs Mopar wiring bulkhead connectors A B C E Body Charger Cuda Challenger | eBay

 

[TrailBeast]

Buy fusible link wire at the store and make your own. Fuses are not a good alternative, Mopar used the link for a reason.

If you don't mind my asking, exactly what was the reason for using a fusable link instead of some of the alternatives?

 

[Dave NEO]

Buy fusible link wire at the store and make your own. Fuses are not a good alternative, Mopar used the link for a reason.

The female has a tab in the middle on the top that sticks up. Use a micro flathead screwdriver to depress the tab and it pulls out the back.

Here"s what they both look like.
I use small needle nose pliers on the males.

You can buy replacements on ebay if needed.

16 pcs Mopar wiring bulkhead connectors A B C E Body Charger Cuda Challenger | eBay

View attachment 1715022883

perfect, thanks.

 

[AJ/FormS]

F-links are like slo-blo fuses. You can pull a lot of amps thru them for a very short time while they are heating up. Then they kindof damm up the electron flow and give up. If you catch the high current draw early enough and stop it, things cool off and you can carry on about your business. This is a very handy feature on a dark and stormy night, when you wouldn't want to walk home.
I tried to solder one in once and gave up. They are not copper, and I couldn't get anything to stick to it. I crimped it,sealed it, and shrink-wrapped it. It has been good for maybe 8 years or so,I'm guessing.