Fuze blowing

-

Snake

Mopar Nut
Joined
May 22, 2006
Messages
9,454
Reaction score
491
Location
Belleville Canada
Ok went for a rip,tonight it got dark pull the headlights on they work signals working,and brake lights working.I have no dash lights or front or rear running lights.Found that the fuze is blowned no bigge I thought so installed a new one, dash lights came on for a split second and the fuze blew:disgust: I will have to look in the morning,but were to start looking boys.Dam we have a show to go to on Sunday and a few cruise nights next week.Were to start looking guys.I am not a wizz at electrical.HELP lol.
 
A hot wire has rubbed, and gets grounded? If car sitting still, not running, does it happen?
 
Ok went for a rip,tonight it got dark pull the headlights on they work signals working,and brake lights working.I have no dash lights or front or rear running lights.Found that the fuze is blowned no bigge I thought so installed a new one, dash lights came on for a split second and the fuze blew:disgust: I will have to look in the morning,but were to start looking boys.Dam we have a show to go to on Sunday and a few cruise nights next week.Were to start looking guys.I am not a wizz at electrical.HELP lol.


First thing I would do is pull out both front park/turn light bulbs as well as both rear tail light/turn signal bulbs, then put in a new fuse and see if it blows. I can't remember if the real liscence plate light is also run off the same fuse, you might pull it to. If it doesn't blow start putting the bulbs back in one by one with the lights still on, keep checking to see that they are working. If you find one you put in blows it then look in the light socket for something grounding out.

If it blows the fuse with all the bulbs pulled it could be a dash problem or wires rubbed thru some place in the chassis.
 
Have you recently installed anything electrical? I would check for a pinched wire, but since you've had the car all apart for the paint it could be a bit of a challenge to find. If it just started doing this I'd look into any recent electrical work done ie: shifter light?, radio wiring (if you have an aftermarket 1, which I believe you do have 1 under the dash), anything else on that circuit, etc.
 
First thing I would do is pull out both front park/turn light bulbs as well as both rear tail light/turn signal bulbs, then put in a new fuse and see if it blows. I can't remember if the real liscence plate light is also run off the same fuse, you might pull it to. If it doesn't blow start putting the bulbs back in one by one with the lights still on, keep checking to see that they are working. If you find one you put in blows it then look in the light socket for something grounding out.

If it blows the fuse with all the bulbs pulled it could be a dash problem or wires rubbed thru some place in the chassis.


That's how I would do it.
 
Not sure if it's the same circuit, but I would blow a fuse as I would connect the battery. Replaced the fuse , connect the battery...POP. I searched though everything, even took the dash harness out and started cutting that apart and looking around.

HERE...it was in the trunk, I disconnected the harness extension that goes to the dome light. replaced the fuse, connected the battery... and the fuse didn't pop.
 
Have you recently installed anything electrical? I would check for a pinched wire, but since you've had the car all apart for the paint it could be a bit of a challenge to find. If it just started doing this I'd look into any recent electrical work done ie: shifter light?, radio wiring (if you have an aftermarket 1, which I believe you do have 1 under the dash), anything else on that circuit, etc.

Ron my radio is working and on anouther circut,but I did install a better oil pressure gague about 8 weeks ago,this just happened.
 
Ok I layed in bed and thought the same thing last night, start pulling all that runs off that fuze and go from there.One thing that i know is my dome light is always on no bulb in it because of that.Maybe a door jamb switch shorting out.I hope this is not to hard to track down.
 
Hey Snake I would do just what nothingbutdarts said. Chk everything one by one. If you got a can of elec. component cleaner I would spray it in the door jamb switches. Electrical can be such a *****. Good luck, let us know what it is
 
lots of lights on that fuse, ashtray lamp, radio lamp, shift indicater lamp, etc... Orange wires. If there is a aftermarket stereo, thats where I would start looking. Good luck
 
Ok I layed in bed and thought the same thing last night, start pulling all that runs off that fuze and go from there.One thing that i know is my dome light is always on no bulb in it because of that.Maybe a door jamb switch shorting out.I hope this is not to hard to track down.

I think you answered your own question dude. That dome light problem will probably figure into the blown fuse problem some where along the line.
 
I think you answered your own question dude. That dome light problem will probably figure into the blown fuse problem some where along the line.

That could be it cudadriver,I removed everything like all has said,and started hooking things up,only things not hook up now are the door jamb switches,my tack,witch sometimes works and does not and my oil pressure light.I now have running lights again,so my dash lights should be working too,but dont know as of yet its too light out to know.We are geting somewere boys,I owe you all a cold one :cheers:
 
Right on!!So the door jamb switches dont work and your tach sometimes?? I would think the door jamb switches would be easiest to check out, but maybe the tach wire under the hood could be the culprit. Like you said getting closer! Seeing as how I might be the closest member, I will take you up on the cold ones one day. I will drink the other members share too!!
 
Right on!!So the door jamb switches dont work and your tach sometimes?? I would think the door jamb switches would be easiest to check out, but maybe the tach wire under the hood could be the culprit. Like you said getting closer! Seeing as how I might be the closest member, I will take you up on the cold ones one day. I will drink the other members share too!!
We have a date,lol,need to get some fuzes and hook things up one by one to see who is to blame,I am leaning towards the dome light or there switches.
 
That could be it cudadriver,I removed everything like all has said,and started hooking things up,only things not hook up now are the door jamb switches,my tack,witch sometimes works and does not and my oil pressure light.I now have running lights again,so my dash lights should be working too,but dont know as of yet its too light out to know.We are geting somewere boys,I owe you all a cold one :cheers:

I will check my mail box daily. lol
 
Ok this is were I am at now maybe my headlight switch has a problim also.I hook everything back up but not the dome switch yet.My oil pressure light did not come on I wiggled my headlight switch it work than went out.I have an orange wire that used to power my shift indiecator at the coulom but now powers my tack light and oil pressure light.There is no power at that orange wire now.Question does that wire get power from the headlight switch?
 
Ok this is were I am at now maybe my headlight switch has a problim also.I hook everything back up but not the dome switch yet.My oil pressure light did not come on I wiggled my headlight switch it work than went out.I have an orange wire that used to power my shift indiecator at the coulom but now powers my tack light and oil pressure light.There is no power at that orange wire now.Question does that wire get power from the headlight switch?

Not sure on the color of the wire for the shift indicator light, if it was indeed for that then you are good to go. ALL the dash lights, radio and the shift indicator lights are controlled (dimming only, not on and off) by the rotation of the headlight knob for dimming puropses. Built into the headlight switch is a "rheostat". When you turn the headlight switch knob you are actually turning this rheostat, the rheostst is what dims and brightens the dash lights. In our beloved old cars the rheostat can get a "burnt" spot in it coil windings causing the dash lights to not work in certain places (hence your wiggling of the headlight switch and they came on). I would guess you are fine here other than you will find certain spots in the rheostst where you will be turning the knob and the dash lights will go out. If you can get by that way it is, just find a good spot in the brightness of the dash lights you like and leave it there, or to fix the problem you will need a new headlight switch.
 
Hey don if you wiggle the switch and you get flickering, then I would think like nothingbutdarts said, it might be "cooked" or it could be the connection back there. If your switch is like mine, then there is a little button underneath the switch that has a spring on it. You push this up and then pull the switch all the way out. Be careful I would hate for you to break it. Once you pull the "stem" of the switch out I believe there is still a nut on the body of the switch that has to come off to get it out. My wording makes it sound more difficult than what it is. If yours is cooked lemme know I have a couple switches. That is if cuda and dart switches are the same.
Steve
 
Not sure on the color of the wire for the shift indicator light, if it was indeed for that then you are good to go. ALL the dash lights, radio and the shift indicator lights are controlled (dimming only, not on and off) by the rotation of the headlight knob for dimming puropses. Built into the headlight switch is a "rheostat". When you turn the headlight switch knob you are actually turning this rheostat, the rheostst is what dims and brightens the dash lights. In our beloved old cars the rheostat can get a "burnt" spot in it coil windings causing the dash lights to not work in certain places (hence your wiggling of the headlight switch and they came on). I would guess you are fine here other than you will find certain spots in the rheostst where you will be turning the knob and the dash lights will go out. If you can get by that way it is, just find a good spot in the brightness of the dash lights you like and leave it there, or to fix the problem you will need a new headlight switch.

Ok does sound like the headlight switch now.I have running lights now but no dash lights its dark now and just check also no matter how much i wiggle the switch nothing happens now.I have ordered a new switch.Thanks for the help.
 
Hey don if you wiggle the switch and you get flickering, then I would think like nothingbutdarts said, it might be "cooked" or it could be the connection back there. If your switch is like mine, then there is a little button underneath the switch that has a spring on it. You push this up and then pull the switch all the way out. Be careful I would hate for you to break it. Once you pull the "stem" of the switch out I believe there is still a nut on the body of the switch that has to come off to get it out. My wording makes it sound more difficult than what it is. If yours is cooked lemme know I have a couple switches. That is if cuda and dart switches are the same.
Steve

Thanks Steve foe the offer,I did go today to parts source and ordered one 23 bucks.Ps thanks for the reminder on how to remove the stem totaly forgot,thanksss buddy.
 
the orange wire is the shift indicator light wire and it should have power as soon as you pull your headlights out to the first position (parking lamps) and it is a dimmable wire as well
 
wow ive had this same problem for about a year now, haven't tracked it down now.
 
-
Back
Top