Gas gauge

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J

Jeff Zinsli

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Colton, Or.
I am new to this forum and any advise would be welcome. My son and I purchased a 1969 Dart Custom 4dr. as a project. Gas gauge was inoperable. After doing research we pulled the dash cluster, no easy chore, cleaned and repaired the loose pins and installed a new gauge voltage regulator. An ohm test show all was good. After reinstall the gas gauge will start to come up and then after a few seconds drops back down. Any suggestions? Thanks.
 
The power path is switched ignition to the cluster through the cluster PC board connector, to the IVR, through the PC board to the gauge stud, through the gauge and out the sender stud, back to the PC connector, through the harness to the left kick panel connector/ rear harness, back to the sender, through the sender resistance to the sender "shell" and to ground through the nonsense jumper at the fuel suction line grounding clip

Any one of those points can have a problem

Does the temp gauge seem to work normally? If so, that would eliminated some of the cluster problems.

The fuel gauge studs can be loose, correded at the pc board / nuts and the gauge can be bad. you could have a poor harness connector problem, or at the sender or a sender problem itself, or the ground could be poor

To start checking "rough and quick" jumper the sender wire to a known good ground at the tank. Turn the key to "run" the gauge should peg. DO NOT leave the power on longer than necessary. You can get an idea of gauge accuracy by substituting known resistance at the sender to ground and see what the gauge does. This is an old photo someone doctored from a factory or factory "like" gauge tester unit

c-3826-jpg-jpg.jpg
 
Thanks 67Dart273.
Always nice when members give a clear and simple to follow DYI instructions with some technical illustrations.
This is what FABO is all about.
Happy Mopar :)
Arron
 
So the gauge does work. Fault must be in the resistance signal to it. My best guess is float filled with fuel. I don't know what IVR your installed so I'll add this...
There are fancy solid state units that turn themselves off if/when they sense a fault. That could cause your condition. Temp gauge operation is a clue.
 
RedFish said:
So the gauge does work. Fault must be in the resistance signal to it. My best guess is float filled with fuel. I don't know what IVR your installed so I'll add this...
There are fancy solid state units that turn themselves off if/when they sense a fault. That could cause your condition. Temp gauge operation is a clue.
Click to expand...
The car had sat for awhile before we bought, so I rebuilt the carb and removed the tank to clean the inside, at this time I installed a new sending unit. I did install a new style IVR. So it looks like I have short somewhere. I will check temp gauge function and then start to trace wires. Thanks for all the input, great forum. I will post pictures soon
 
Don't discount that the new parts could be defective. Again, if the temp gauge works that eliminates the IVR
 
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