Getting air in the lines somehow

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Tooljunkie said:
Wont get air in m/c while pedal is depressed.
You mentioned it takes some time to get the air out.
Static test. Depress pedal, both feet as hard as you can. Basically, duplicating a hard stop. But hold it for 10-20 seconds. If there is a fluid leak you should feel pedal drop. If problem still exists, with a helper, try bleeding at master by cracking the lines. If you get air, its the master.
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I rebled them, held and the longer I held it would go down very slowly and then would need pumped up again like I never bled them. I ordered the drdiff MC and if that’s not it I’m gonna have to dig through it again
 
TrailerParkGinger said:
No fluid from the rear of the MC either like a leaking seal
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Due to the design of the seals air can get in a lot easier than fluid can get out, so not seeing a fluid leak isn't unusual but that said I have to agree that it does sound like the master has a problem from everything you have done, checked and described.
 
TrailBeast said:
Due to the design of the seals air can get in a lot easier than fluid can get out, so not seeing a fluid leak isn't unusual but that said I have to agree that it does sound like the master has a problem from everything you have done, checked and described.
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Dr.Diff 15/16 Aluminum MC is ordered. Right Stuff has yet to get back to me. Should of just ordered from Dr.Diff to begin with, he is much more thorough. Right stuff also doesn’t seem to have a great rep for customer service. Hopefully this is my problem and I’ll chock it up to ya get what you pay for. I really appreciate the responses fron all of you fellas, hopefully I’m on the right track and can get my ride running and stopping before MoPar Nats.
 
TrailerParkGinger said:
Dr.Diff 15/16 Aluminum MC is ordered. Right Stuff has yet to get back to me. Should of just ordered from Dr.Diff to begin with, he is much more thorough. Right stuff also doesn’t seem to have a great rep for customer service. Hopefully this is my problem and I’ll chock it up to ya get what you pay for. I really appreciate the responses fron all of you fellas, hopefully I’m on the right track and can get my ride running and stopping before MoPar Nats.
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You got this.
It's just a series of events to the solution.
 
TrailerParkGinger said:
I rebled them, held and the longer I held it would go down very slowly and then would need pumped up again like I never bled them. I ordered the drdiff MC and if that’s not it I’m gonna have to dig through it again
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This. Right here, this is your clue.
The pedal is dropping. Thats a leak. Be it master cyl bypassing or a loose fitting or whatever.
 
Any update? Sounds like it definitely is/was the MC.

Fluid level 1/16-1/8" below the top is a little high. Just read the FSM the other day snd noticed it said to keep the fluid 1/4" down.

And yes, the Mopar aluminum MC retains the 1/2 and 9/16 port size.
 
KosmicKuda said:
Any update? Sounds like it definitely is/was the MC.
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I received my DoctorDiff Aluminum MC and it solved my problem. DrDiff said it sounded like an out of spec piston or bore causing it to loss pressure. Now I just have to fine tune the adjustable pushrod length on this new set up, but she stops on a dime now.
 
TrailerParkGinger said:
I received my DoctorDiff Aluminum MC and it solved my problem. DrDiff said it sounded like an out of spec piston or bore causing it to loss pressure. Now I just have to fine tune the adjustable pushrod length on this new set up, but she stops on a dime now.
Click to expand...
I got a call from Right Stuff today and they’re sending a replacement MC that they said to go ahead and sell to recoup my loss. I’m fine with that. Anyone need a new 15/16” bore manual MC? I’ll be at MoPar nats :)
 
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