getting pissed off!

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64val67gtx

64val67gtx

64 sl6val 2dr 67 gtx 4spd
Joined
Oct 14, 2011
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Location
Eugene oregon
So i have a 64 plymouth valiant with 67000 org miles now the gas gauge dosnt work,, all the searches i do about fixing it are vauge, they have pics of the back the cluster, well i know what the dammed thing looks like! also some rocket seience on how to remove stuff from inside the gauge? wtf? so im supposed to pry the gauge open and ruin it? how do u do this? why does knowone have pics on how to ruin the gauge? im about to go to autozone and run some mexican sunpro gauges thru the center of dash with self tappers! JK well it would prob work! anyways everything in this car worked then it started smoking one day under the dash now the temp gauge dont work. junk.. sorry about the ranting. IS THERE SOME ONE WHO CAN TELL ME "WITH PICS" HOW 2 FIX THE GAUGE? THIS IS redickulis
 
If you have a volt meter and know how to use it, it's simple to diagnose.
 
does the temp gauge work or is just the fuel gauge out? alt is separate



The Gauge - there is a bi-metal strip wound with insulated nichrome wire. The resistance (varies) from the sending unit heats the ni-chrome wire and bends the bimetal and the gauge works.

But before I type a ton of stuff that is of no matter I need the first question answered.
 
Do you know if the gauges are getting power, did you try to ground the sending units, do you have a check lite to see if you have power at the sending unit. What have you done??
 
new sending unit temp gauge does not work, power is getting there... like i said it smoked and im not smart enough to figure out what and why u need to tear apart the gas gauge to change it over to NEW style huh? what? so im going to tear the guts out and wire in a comp chip? and its going to just arc to the unhooked
****?
 
Come on guys..........This guy is ENTITLED to get a play by play answer from yall.
Even if you have to not go to work, mow your grass, grocery shopping etc you should get on the computer and submit the needed directions and pictures for this guy.........getting pretty damn redickulis around here
 
You could not have read that and comprehended it in 15 minuates.
I am out on this one, good luck
 
I used to work with a Lebanese guy who used to come up and tell me:

I'm so pissed off...

(it was funny with his accent).
 
Rocky_JS said:
does the temp gauge work or is just the fuel gauge out? alt is separate



The Gauge - there is a bi-metal strip wound with insulated nichrome wire. The resistance (varies) from the sending unit heats the ni-chrome wire and bends the bimetal and the gauge works.

But before I type a ton of stuff that is of no matter I need the first question answered.
Click to expand...

i did pry the thing back to see what your talking about and it is burnt... so it is pretty much useless now, the thing i need to know is the gas gauge itsself... now it powers the temp and fuel i got that far... but im having a hard time figureing out how to modify it? u can tell by my grammer im done! i dont want to brown rig it... i want to fix it like these other people but with nothing but vauge sites its nearly impossible
 
sireland67 said:
You could not have read that and comprehended it in 15 minuates.
I am out on this one, good luck
Click to expand...


read and comprehened what? vauge like the site. thamks for your insight, this is something someone that wants stock gauges needs to anwser not how to plastic dip the 74 duster.
 
When you decide to can the attitude, someone might actually help you.

Bye
 
Do You under stand your being pissed off and takin it out on members that can help you . Just sayin you may want to cool off a bit
 
Well im asking how to fix the gauge on a 64, with pics not a later unit. there is a differnce. and i cannot find anything except the picture of the back of the cluster, the site someone sticky is vauge and dos not tell me, hence why none of these work. i did read it i got nothing except i know it is the voltage limiter, so how do u modify the 64 valaint gauge inside? so that i can get it to work again with pics? has anyone done this and been succsessfull ???
 
Here's a couple of simple tips.


To check for continuity (make sure the wires aren't broken) use a continuity tester (It is usually built in to a Radio Shack voltmeter). When you put the tester on the continuity test and touch the two wires for the voltmeter together, it will beep.

You may use wires with alligator clips on each end to make the test probe wires "longer". Touch each end of the wire you want to test to the probe wires (with or without extention wires with alligator clips) and it will beep. That means that your wire is good.

Test Light: This is a light with an alligator clip on one side with a light and a pointed rod coming out of the light. Hook the alligator clip to either positive or negative. First test it on your battery. Hook the alligator clip to the negative side of the battery and touch the pointed rod side to the positive of the battery - it should light up. If you want to test a circuit for positive side power, hook the clip up to the negative (ground - any metal part of the body of the car) and then use the pointed end to test for positive. The light will light up when you find positive voltage. If you need to find ground, hook the clip up to a known positive wire and touch the pointed end to a ground - when the light comes on, then you have found a good ground.

Good luck.

It may help to calm down a little. Take a short break, drink a beer, smoke a joint, or whatever it takes to calm you down. Then go back after you are calm and start diagnosing....
 
If your gauge is fried, maybe find another gauge cluster and swap out the gas gage with yours.

67Dart273 is very good at solving electrical problems. He usually beats me to the punch on issues that I can solve and is correct on how to walk people through the diagnosis.
 
krazykuda said:
Here's a couple of simple tips.


To check for continuity (make sure the wires aren't broken) use a continuity tester (It is usually built in to a Radio Shack voltmeter). When you put the tester on the continuity test and touch the two wires for the voltmeter together, it will beep.

You may use wires with alligator clips on each end to make the test probe wires "longer". Touch each end of the wire you want to test to the probe wires (with or without extention wires with alligator clips) and it will beep. That means that your wire is good.

Test Light: This is a light with an alligator clip on one side with a light and a pointed rod coming out of the light. Hook the alligator clip to either positive or negative. First test it on your battery. Hook the alligator clip to the negative side of the battery and touch the pointed rod side to the positive of the battery - it should light up. If you want to test a circuit for positive side power, hook the clip up to the negative (ground - any metal part of the body of the car) and then use the pointed end to test for positive. The light will light up when you find positive voltage. If you need to find ground, hook the clip up to a known positive wire and touch the pointed end to a ground - when the light comes on, then you have found a good ground.

Good luck.

It may help to calm down a little. Take a short break, drink a beer, smoke a joint, or whatever it takes to calm you down. Then go back after you are calm and start diagnosing....
Click to expand...


Dude i got power going to the thing,, got that far.. it smoked and the (2) gauges temp and fuel pegged one day while driving, ever since it has been intermittent. now it has become a problem and i got nothing... but i still have power coming to the pin that goes to the fuel to power up the (2) units... now im challenged on how to take the gauge apart and add a solid state unit to my 64 gauge to make it work all the time... .if everything else keeps working in future
 
krazykuda said:
If your gauge is fried, maybe find another gauge cluster and swap out the gas gage with yours.

67Dart273 is very good at solving electrical problems. He usually beats me to the punch on issues that I can solve and is correct on how to walk people through the diagnosis.
Click to expand...

I have another from a parts car, but it must be fried or no good i got no couninity from it.
 
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