going from a 3600 to 4500-5000 stall

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1 Bad Duster

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right now I have a 3600 ATI stall converter an my best 60ft is a 1.75 I'd like to get that down,I'm wondering going from a 3600 to 4500-5000 stall will help.

My current mods is this..1970 30 over 340,keith Black pistons its been balanced,Victor 340 intake 750 AED carb, unknown soild lift cam,eldebrock rpm heads with 1.6 gold crane rollor rockers,MSD 6al box an MSD Diss,456 gears,275x60x15 hossier drag radials, TTI longtubes with H pipe with 2 chambers flowmasters. Thanks Jimmy.

.512 light 500 is perfect
1.75 60ft
5.10 330ft
[email protected] mph..
 
younggun2.0 said:
where is the cam installed at? What is the timing curve?
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The motor was built and I have never had a timing light on the car. I know it starts and runs good for the timing to be to off, But when I do a stall converter change I'm gonna pull the cam out to make sure what it is and install it back right if its installed degree.I'm just going off what the guy said it was he couldn't find the cam card, an I'm gonna put a 8qt oil pan on the motor also that came with the car....
 
Hard to nail the converter with out engine particulars especially cam and head flow numbers. What does the car weigh? Tires good and not spinning? Radials tend to wear out before the "tread" is done. 7.80's won't be wearing them out though...
 
tnts72 said:
Hard to nail the converter with out engine particulars especially cam and head flow numbers. What does the car weigh and what rearend gears / tires?
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456 gears,275x60x15 hossier drag radials
 
Saw that after my initial post.^^ should be getting out of the hole better than 1.75. Thinking there is some real opportunity in intake / carb tuning / timing
 
tnts72 said:
Hard to nail the converter with out engine particulars especially cam and head flow numbers. What does the car weigh? Tires good and not spinning? Radials tend to wear out before the "tread" is done. 7.80's won't be wearing them out though...
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Its a full interior 1970 Duster with a hurst shifter with fiberglass hood/front an rear bumpers, front sway bar removed,Full cell and the spare tire is cut out and a thin aluminum was pop ripped in holley blue pump an fram filter. No roll bar/cage. 15x3.5 an 15x10 centerline wheels.
 
you should knock a good tenth off the 60 ft time....as long as the car hooks....

and you should see a good 3 tenths in the 1/4......
 
tnts72 said:
Saw that after my initial post.^^ should be getting out of the hole better than 1.75. Thinking there is some real opportunity in intake / carb tuning / timing
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Its a Victor 340 intake 750 aed carb i do think it needs bigger jets. because it does have a very slight stumble at the start its not that bad.I have never had a timing light on the car... I know the sunday after I ran it I changed the plugs and 7 out of the 8 was the same color and 1 was a different color. 7 of them where a brownish color and 1 was a blackish color
 
Timing first 14-16 initial / 36 total at 3k rpm. Then carb tuning
 
tnts72 said:
Timing first 14-16 initial / 36 total at 3k rpm. Then carb tuning
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Thanks I know when I changed the plugs I keep'd out number 1 and set it to top dead center and when the balancer line was at 0 on the timing marks number 1 started to go down slightly . I know when I put the new plugs in the motor it sounded like a different motor...
 
1 Bad Duster said:
Its a Victor 340 intake 750 aed carb i do think it needs bigger jets. because it does have a very slight stumble at the start its not that bad.I have never had a timing light on the car... I know the sunday after I ran it I changed the plugs and 7 out of the 8 was the same color and 1 was a different color. 7 of them where a brownish color and 1 was a blackish color
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While they all interact to a point, focus on these carb mods. It may take while and lots of changes to get it good:

* Jet for MPH.
* Accellerator pump squirters for 60'.
* Accellerator pump squirters and pump cams for 330".

Plan on a roll bar & especially frame connectors if you don't have them yet. Higher stall/flash should help especially since I always felt that a Victor was a bit much for most applications. I prefer a Holley Strip Dominator. 4 hole spacer may help with tuning.
 
Locomotion said:
While they all interact to a point, focus on these carb mods. It may take while and lots of changes to get it good:

* Jet for MPH.
* Accellerator pump squirters for 60'.
* Accellerator pump squirters and pump cams for 330".

Plan on a roll bar & especially frame connectors if you don't have them yet. Higher stall/flash should help especially since I always felt that a Victor was a bit much for most applications. I prefer a Holley Strip Dominator. 4 hole spacer may help with tuning.
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I got bigger jets for it but haven't put them on yet...
I put bigger squirters had 31 front an 35 back an I put in 40 front an 42 back and it helped the stumble alot
I messed with the accellerator pump cam on the front but im not sure how to adjust them and where should they be adjusted to front one and back one, I have weld in sub frame connectors already.I have drive shaft loop and pinon stubber and super stock springs I only have a 1/2-1 spacer on it now. under the carb.
 
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-Nx5HEzvlY"]How To Adjust The Accelerator Pump On Holley Carburetors - YouTube[/ame]
 
Converters are almost always tighter than advertised. I have a 5k I can footbrake to 3500. Sounds like you are in the ballpark though, more like a 3000-3200 which is pretty spot on for a street driven setup.

Just curious what is the weather like were you are racing...? Temperature / % humidity etc...?
 
Stalling with you foot brake and what the converter flashes to when you leave the line are usually 2 different rpm ranges. Do a launch and have someone watch the tach, see what rpm the converter flashes to.
 
tnts72 said:
Converters are almost always tighter than advertised. I have a 5k I can footbrake to 3500. Sounds like you are in the ballpark though, more like a 3000-3200 which is pretty spot on for a street driven setup.

Just curious what is the weather like were you are racing...? Temperature / % humidity etc...?
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It's been hot an humid . I can find out by a calulator on the internet. I've done the converter an watching the tach. It went to 3600-3800 flashed too. But i wish I could footbrake to 3500 then I'd be happy an I bet with a loser converter my car won't act like it wants to cut off at a red light or stop sign.
 
1 Bad Duster said:
It's been hot an humid . I can find out by a calulator on the internet. I've done the converter an watching the tach. It went to 3600-3800 flashed too. But i wish I could footbrake to 3500 then I'd be happy an I bet with a loser converter my car won't act like it wants to cut off at a red light or stop sign.
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Betting its more in carburetor tune and timing - shouldn't be stumbling even with a little tighter converter. Lot of guys think looser converter the better - all depends on where your motor is making torque. I would get the tune lined out before going with a higher stall which will only mask the underlying issues. You have jet extensions and a hose connecting the bowl vents? Some cars will slosh fuel out of the primary vent when the car launches which will sometimes cause the car to stumble momentarily. 4-6" piece of 5/16" with an oval cut out of the top side will help alleviate that issue. Jet extensions in the rear bowl will keep the jets submerged in fuel as its being pushed towards the rear of the bowl under accelleration. Will also need a notched float if you don't already have one. Do not put jet extensions in the front bowl - yes I have seen that happen before:violent1:
 
I hooked a vacuum gague to my car an it was only reading 4-5 so i adjusted the 4 corner idling screws an i got 8-10 out of it. An i advanced the timing an the rpms raised so i set it to where it wouldndnt kick back or drag on starter an i added a 2 inch spacer under the carb. An i took it out on the street an it feels so much better. Couple weeks ago i took it out street racing an this was before the mods/adjusting. An people said my car didnt leave out the hole that fast a couple weeks ago. An people thought i added nitrous. Another thing is a few weeks ago i didnt have too burnout just pull up to the flager n go. But now i blow off the tire if i dont do a burnout.
 
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