Going Powerglide

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SGaringer

SGaringer

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Hello, I am going to a powerglide in my Dart. It's is getting a JW Bell so It will bolt up nicely, however I am also installing a mid plate (1/4") which requires a crank spacer and the Chevy flex plate which also requires a crank spacer. Has anyone tackled this before, and if so what length flex plate bolts you used or any other pointers you can give me before I begin this swap.
 
SGaringer said:
Hello, I am going to a powerglide in my Dart. It's is getting a JW Bell so It will bolt up nicely, however I am also installing a mid plate (1/4") which requires a crank spacer and the Chevy flex plate which also requires a crank spacer. Has anyone tackled this before, and if so what length flex plate bolts you used or any other pointers you can give me before I begin this swap.
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If big block then yes and you'll have to do all the calcs based on the different components you'll use. If you don't have anything yet let me know because I just built a entirely new PG and I'm not using most the old pieces. It was built for around 800HP and I'm trying to make over 1000 now.
 
ValiantS said:
If big block then yes and you'll have to do all the calcs based on the different components you'll use. If you don't have anything yet let me know because I just built a entirely new PG and I'm not using most the old pieces. It was built for around 800HP and I'm trying to make over 1000 now.
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Dang, should have posted here first as I just got all my parts!
 
SGaringer said:
Hello, I am going to a powerglide in my Dart. It's is getting a JW Bell so It will bolt up nicely, however I am also installing a mid plate (1/4") which requires a crank spacer and the Chevy flex plate which also requires a crank spacer. Has anyone tackled this before, and if so what length flex plate bolts you used or any other pointers you can give me before I begin this swap.
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You are making it sound like you need two crank spacers. You need a flywheel and an adapter. I have several of both that I keep here. Converter bolts are determined after you set your thrust. I’ll find a nice link to post.
 
If you have a stock firewall, the clearance for the bellhousing bolts will be tight. Probably need longer dowel pins with the midplate too. There are plenty of different size spacers available for the converter bolts.
 
SGaringer said:
Dang, should have posted here first as I just got all my parts!
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All good! I'd need a good handfull of parts to have the original complete anyway. What'd you buy as far as internals? Anything fancy? FTI has a good video on mods to stock pumps and Hughes has some good videos as well IMO! More than anything with a glide it's gonna be converter sensitive. On my car I used the adapter for a midplate too.(it's a GM pattern 1/2" thick Coan) What you use for a starter can guide your choice for the flywheel, as there are a few different offsets.
 
ValiantS said:
All good! I'd need a good handfull of parts to have the original complete anyway. What'd you buy as far as internals? Anything fancy? FTI has a good video on mods to stock pumps and Hughes has some good videos as well IMO! More than anything with a glide it's gonna be converter sensitive. On my car I used the adapter for a midplate too.(it's a GM pattern 1/2" thick Coan) What you use for a starter can guide your choice for the flywheel, as there are a few different offsets.
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I went with the FTI loaded drum, FTI Pro transbrake and solenoid. I want 1.80 straight cut gears, but have heli cut 1.76 for now. Got the jegs roller tailshaft and forged yoke. I have a worked front pump already.
 
SGaringer said:
I went with the FTI loaded drum, FTI Pro transbrake and solenoid. I want 1.80 straight cut gears, but have heli cut 1.76 for now. Got the jegs roller tailshaft and forged yoke. I have a worked front pump already.
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How quick are you looking to go
 
Hey, guys, I am not a racer. I have a question I hope one of you can answer. Why is there such a following for Powerglides in racing. I would think that a well-built Torqueflite, or some other 3-4 speed automatic, would be preferable over a 2 speed Powerglide. Are they that much stronger than a well-built Torqueflite? Again, I don't know much about racing. Please school me.
Thanks,
Mike.
 
SGaringer said:
I went with the FTI loaded drum, FTI Pro transbrake and solenoid. I want 1.80 straight cut gears, but have heli cut 1.76 for now. Got the jegs roller tailshaft and forged yoke. I have a worked front pump already.
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I have a straight 1.96 BTE I took out for a 1.80 with 4 660ft passes...
 
Be sure to take a serious look at the driveshaft. Last car I swapped over to a PG required a carbon fiber driveshaft due to the extra length. Nobody could make an aluminum or steel driveshaft that was safe, had to be carbon fiber. That added a bunch of cost to the swap!
 
On the Valiant @ 108ish wheelbase, my glide driveshaft was 50.5". I moved the engine back near the firewall which is probably no more than an inch from where a 'bolt-in' intended application would put it otherwise. My trans stack-up is such that it's length is within 1/2" of a stock T400 so I sized the driveshaft for either.

ModLoop4.jpg
 
harrisonm said:
Hey, guys, I am not a racer. I have a question I hope one of you can answer. Why is there such a following for Powerglides in racing. I would think that a well-built Torqueflite, or some other 3-4 speed automatic, would be preferable over a 2 speed Powerglide. Are they that much stronger than a well-built Torqueflite? Again, I don't know much about racing. Please school me.
Thanks,
Mike.
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Many of reasons. Some of the most important reasons are the consistency it’s known for. It’s got less gear ratio in 1st gear than any 3 speed, so less susceptible to traction issues. Only 1 shift instead of 2 so one less variable going down the track. Parts availability is big, and how many manufacturer produce aftermarket parts for a glide is a big reason. There is less parasitic drag going down the track, less HP to turn, and lighter than any 3 speed. SFI case is an option which the 727 does not have that option. The glide has 2 less drums, 1 less planetary, 1 less band, and no overrunning clutch compared to a 727. Some say it’s stronger than some of the 3 speeds, which I do not personally believe. They’re all strong with todays aftermarket parts and they can tolerate very high HP levels.
 
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SGaringer said:
It has ran a best of 6.29 at 107. Not sure if it will slow up or speed up, any
71Demon528 said:
How much does the car weigh? What’s the current engine combo, rear gear ratio, tire size, converter stall, and current 1st gear ratio in your 3 speed?
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I just started asking that and I saw some one posted. At 2800-2900 pounds I saw no change in ET but being a drag only car or cars my gearing is pretty deep. Summit used to carry this in stock and they come in very handy getting your starter shimming set up right.
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I think it really depends on the combo, but if the convertor is matched properly I think it should run the same, must may slow down your 60', but pick up mph.
 
71Demon528 said:
How much does the car weigh? What’s the current engine combo, rear gear ratio, tire size, converter stall, and current 1st gear ratio in your 3 speed?
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Yes we would want to know that because in my experience people rarely get the most out of their combo's. NO DISRESPECT intended!
 
Couldn’t agree more. If it’s a poorly matched combo with a 3 speed, then that leaves the window open to go just as fast or faster with a properly matched glide combo.
 
I just purchased a glide for my car this year. Went with the 2 piece case bte/reid, 1.80. My converter guy set it up for 5800. 3180 with me 408 ran a best of 6.47@104 5300 was the flash with a 904.
 
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