So I'm not going to be starting my engine anytime soon, but I'm just wondering what I can to to ensure that I do everything I can to not wipe a lobe on my cam. When I put the cam in I put lots of cam lube on, but when I was adjusting the rocker arms the lube has already wiped off due to hand turning the engine. Before I start it I plan to prime the oil to to get oil everywhere, but I'm just worried about the cam, what should I put on the cam and lifters before I put the intake manifold on? And what oil should I run for break in? I was told rotella is a good oil to use.
Good break in oil
- Thread starter DartVadar
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A68DART360
Well-Known Member
You can use Valvoline Racing oil. I believe they are in the silver qt bottles. Or you can use Shell Rotella oil. It is still made with Zinc in it.
skrews
Well-Known Member
Dont use Rottella as a break in oil. Use an actual break in oil, there are lots of them out there. Rottella, Delvac, Delo, and other diesel grade oils have to high of a detergent level for what little ZDDP content they still have to be effective. http://www.jegs.com/i/Lucas-Oil/639/10631/10002/-1?parentProductId=1524939
As cheap as any quality off the shelf oil and no shipping.
As cheap as any quality off the shelf oil and no shipping.
coat the cam with moly lube for a cam...put what ever oil you want to in it...
and get the engine started within a few cranks...get the carb,,,no leaking gas....timing..cooling system...all ready to go...
the only thing you are breaking in the camshaft...
and prime the oiling system.....
I have my Hemi filled up with Castrol 20/50 and Comp additive with the cam and lifters generously lubed with zinc paste. Ain't sweatin it.
needsaresto
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It really does depend on what type of cam your using. A roller needs nothing more than modern oil. Solids and hydraulics will need high zinc oil. And stay away from modern high detergent oil..
I have a hydraulic, so I need oil with zinc in it.
I've been putting it together with brad penn oil already, partly because is really nice an thick so it sticks to everything. I haven't thought about using it for break in. My uncle uses it in his drag cars. I assume that it's high in zinc content? Would that be equivalent to break in oil? Or would it still be best to buy that Lucas oil that skrews suggested.
Brad Penn makes a specific BREAK IN OIL. It's what I use and then transition to the regular Brad Penn oil with zinc.
That is what I do also.
That's what I'll do then, the extra cost of the oil is obviously worth the peace of mind.
rod7515
Well-Known Member
About three years ago I contacted Brad Penn about engine break in with hydraulic or solid lifter cams and spoke to the chief engineer who was glad to explain the break in procedure I needed to follow. I didnt realize that with the exception of their break in oil, all their other oils have a partial synthetic mix. Thats the reason he strongly recommended using their straight 30 Weight break in oil for the initial start and break in then running the first 100 miles with it. At that time drain oil and change filter and go to whichever of their blends you prefer. I have since done quite a few engines with no issues. My vote is for Brad Penn as well but other break in oils will also do a good job. Just be sure to use a quality oil for break in only.
What about using STP as an assembly lube? It's super thick. I used it back in 1980 on a 318 I put together after machine shop did the major work of cleaning and head work. I also used some kind of Pennzoil racing oil. Can't remember exactly what type other than it was racing oil. I do remember it was more expensive then regular oil at that time.
FJ5
Well-Known Member
I've got royal purple in mine right now. Just waiting to get it on a run stand. It's a roller motor. Looks like I could have saved some money since it doesn't seem to be needed in a roller motor. Oh well, live and learn.
I don't know why people keep repeating the myth that rollers don't need zinc, because they do. Not as much as a flat tappet, but the need is there nonetheless.
fnaramore
POWEEERRRRRR
Don't mean to hijack, but I use Shell Rottella as my regular oil for my flat tappet, any issues with that?
skrews
Well-Known Member
X 2
The misconceptions on this subject know no bounds.
1) Rollers do in fact need as RRR said above.
2) Cost. Seems like everyone is under the impression that break in oil is substantially more expensive than regular oil. Not true. The Lucas oil I linked to in post #3 is $22 for 5 quarts or $4.40 per qrt. Same price as any name brand oil. If you order from Jegs there is no shipping charge.
3) Break in oil not only helps the cam break in, it also helps the rings seat better and valve train components break in.
One should ask them selves why not use it and why should I use it.
PS
Just because Wal Mart don't stock it isn't a good reason to not use it.
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
since the govt demand for low sulfur diesel fuels rotella does not have the high zinc it use to have,,,
bradd penn or valveoline VR-1 racing oil,,,NOT THE OFF ROAD VR-1 has good zinc content, and can be gotten at jegs now with free shipping,, I use VR-1 and have had no issues with 2 motors ive broken inn,,, its pricey but so is another motor,,,dont cheap out
bradd penn or valveoline VR-1 racing oil,,,NOT THE OFF ROAD VR-1 has good zinc content, and can be gotten at jegs now with free shipping,, I use VR-1 and have had no issues with 2 motors ive broken inn,,, its pricey but so is another motor,,,dont cheap out
skrews
Well-Known Member
^^^^ exactly. VR1 is what I use after breakin. My local NAPA stores carrys it for 5.99 a qrt vs 4.99 for every thing else. At a buck a qrt it doesn't make sense not to run it.
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