Got a new Truck (new to me)

[George Jets]

OK, fired it up today with the gas in the carb bowls, fired right up, carb had gas and timing was set right to run. No funny sounds, no ticking.

So it was on to the next step > set up the manual fuel pump, steel line to steel filter, and continue on up to feed the carb.

Need to do a temp fuel source so the manual pump can draw it in. Then I can run it for a minute.

Then on to plumbing the fuel source.

Looking like I am going to be able to take out the electric in the tank fuel pump, and put a pass through draw tube and pre-filter in its place, keeping the original gas tank and fuel gauge too.

Pretty nice, there is a 5/16" feed line from the fuel tank that dumps right at the base of the fuel pump, so that much of it should be easy.

Have some comments coming up about the TBI wiring harness and what needs to be done to make everything in the cab work, being that the engine, ignition and fuel source is now all on its own, (no needed engine management computer for the engine to run). I like that.....


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[George Jets]

How much rewiring do you have to do in order to ditch the TBI for a carb and electronic ignition? Get an old wiring diagram for the ignition and just do that? Does the old TBI brain over behind the battery have to stay hooked up to run other stuff? When I do the Magnum swap in my truck, I have every piece of under hood wiring, fuse box & computer. I have a wiring diagram to hook up the 4 or 5 wires on the Magnum stuff to make it run. I'm hoping the old TBI ECU doesn't do anything with stuff like heater/AC, lights, charging circuit, etc.

These are all good questions. I am figuring things out as I go.

To start with all the TBI stuff was removed to clean up and paint the top of the engine, had all the TBI harness disconnected at every connection on the engine.

Then put the 4 bbl and points distributor in. No crank, everything was dead.

First thing was to hook up all the common grounds from harness and engine block to a good ground on the block (coil stand bolt hole).

That helped with things starting to come back on. There was one large 8 spade coupler in the harness that needed to be plugged back together with its mate, then the engine would crank with the key.

Then plugged in the electrical connector to the oil sending unit, now I have a working oil pressure factory gauge and idiot light besides.

Have headlights and 4 way flashers, think my turn signal switch in the column is shot though.

So Yeah, one step at a time working through it.

Here in Florida I am just going to use a manual heat control valve on the heater hose, and ditch the factory one with all the exccess vacuum lines all over the engine.

Then at the end will look into the AC to see what needs to be plugged in to get that working as it is all there and the system is still sealed.

So far so good.


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[sireland67]

I am pretty sure you can simply swap to earlier rotors to get the 4.5 bolt pattern on the front, with no modifications to the brakes. 82-85 rotors maybe? I would think you could do the same with axles and rear brakes. I'm putting an 8 3/4 from an early 70's truck under my 88, but I'm keeping the 5.5 bolt pattern. A few years ago, I got a pair of 8 3/4 truck axles with the 5.5 bolt pattern from @Righty Tighty and will just swap the brakes from the 9 1/4 I'm taking out. Same backing plates and offset. I'm having to go the other direction on the gas tank, to get one that will accept a pump compatible with the MPFI on the 5.9 Magnum going in. You may be able to just modify the tank you have by disabling the pump and straight piping a new pickup while leaving the gas gauge sender in place.

Earlier rotors swap.
I just sold my cousin a 85 D150 that somebody before me converted to 4.5" pattern, on the rear they used and earlier 8.75 complete rear end.
Best part was it had a 440 and rmvb 727.
He is pulling the engine and trans for his 69 charger, and dropping a stock 318 904 back in the truck to work it.
It was a nice, fairly rust-free short wheel base truck.

 

[sireland67]

Would these work for you? 5 x 5-1/2 BC (I don't remember the width, sorry), stock aluminum Ford wheels on a '95 F150 4x4 I just stumbled across for cheap.

View attachment 1716211103

I have two full sets of them actually, so if you think they'll work, feel free to drop me a PM.

Jim

Those wheels need the centers bored out, they will bolt on and act like they are tight, but will not fully seat.
Tried them on another truck years ago.
Found out about not being fully seated the hard way when a wheel loosened up.

 

[George Jets]

This is an interesting conversation on the hub and axle conversion back to the 4.5" bolt pattern?

That 5.5 pattern with the larger 3 1/2 center hole is a real bear to find any wheels for.

So asking this > can a person go to the parts store and just get the 4.5 pattern rotors, as people are saying you don't have to change anything from the 5.5 calipers???

Then easy enough, change the rear axles to 4.5 pattern and need the 4.5 brake drum to go with that. Possibly keeping the same backing plates that my 5.5 pattern 8 1/4 rear end now has???

Any thoughts on this?

Thanks

There are lots of American Racing 15" x 8" wide x 4.5 pattern aluminum rims all over that came off the Ford Rangers and Broncos.

Like those wheels at 4.5" pattern, I would be happy with those to fit the Dodge.

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[sireland67]

You are on the right track on doing the conversion.

 

[George Jets]

Simple points distributor and a manual fuel pump.

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[sireland67]

Simple points distributor and a manual fuel pump.

View attachment 1716219890


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I would step it up a notch from there and add a stock electronic distributor fired by a 4 pin hei, and a set of headers.

Forget what you know about headers on A-bodies, headers on trucks are pretty easy, put the passenger one down from top, and the drivers up from the bottom, you do not even have to unbolt the engine, just remove the starter, and oil filter. A good duel exhaust really helps them breath.

 

[George Jets]

Picked up a "Gray" air lift jack a few weeks ago, 80 miles South of here.

Now I can easily get the truck up to get everything checked out on the underside.

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[George Jets]

Opened up the transmission pan to see what's in there.

Nice and clean inside, no debris, fluid clean, magnet clean. No signs of any moisture in there after sitting for 6 years.

Looking like it has been serviced on schedule.

Installed new filter and ATF-4 ready for next steps.


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[George Jets]

Opened up and drained the rear end.

Looking nice and clean inside. Cross Pin tight, backlash on ring gear good, spiders ok for 90,000 miles. All gears are shinny clean no rust pits, no signs of any moisture sitting in there.

Should be good now to take and run her.


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[JDMopar]

I'll bet that fancy schmancy new jack saves a lot of huffing and puffing to jack it up! Been a long time since I've seen one like that. Do they have a way to lock it in position to make sure it doesn't fall? Glad the report is good on the trans and rearend.

 

[George Jets]

I'll bet that fancy schmancy new jack saves a lot of huffing and puffing to jack it up! Been a long time since I've seen one like that. Do they have a way to lock it in position to make sure it doesn't fall? Glad the report is good on the trans and rearend.

Yes there are cogs as you go up to lock it. Then stays put with no air pressure.

Have one just like it at MN shop, when I saw this one here in FL on Marketplace, had to have it.

1970's Gray equipment, made them simple and good back then.


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[George Jets]

Cooling System Flush

Flushed Radiator as well, nice and clean.

Getting Excited Now.....


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[George Jets]

Cooling system going back together.

Complete with lower hose internal spring, drilled to bleed 180° thermostat, and special for Florida > heat shut off valve.

Distilled Water with 25% Anti-Freeze mix. Florida again, below the freeze line here.


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[George Jets]

Original wheels, heading to the Tire Shop tomorrow for new rubber.

6.5" x 15" rims, that's nice for a factory rim.


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[JDMopar]

This is an interesting conversation on the hub and axle conversion back to the 4.5" bolt pattern?

That 5.5 pattern with the larger 3 1/2 center hole is a real bear to find any wheels for.

So asking this > can a person go to the parts store and just get the 4.5 pattern rotors, as people are saying you don't have to change anything from the 5.5 calipers???

Then easy enough, change the rear axles to 4.5 pattern and need the 4.5 brake drum to go with that. Possibly keeping the same backing plates that my 5.5 pattern 8 1/4 rear end now has???

Any thoughts on this?

Thanks

There are lots of American Racing 15" x 8" wide x 4.5 pattern aluminum rims all over that came off the Ford Rangers and Broncos.

Like those wheels at 4.5" pattern, I would be happy with those to fit the Dodge.

View attachment 1716218031



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If you do the front rotor swap, that will be the easy part if what I have read is correct. You could pull a rear wheel and drum, then look to see if there is enough flange on the axle to have drilled to 4.5 bolt pattern and also turn the center register down to what you need for drums that fit an older 9 1/4 with 4.5 bolt pattern. Or is your rearend 8 1/4? Either way, that might get you to where you want it easier than swapping a truck 8 3/4 in. If you prefer to use a truck 8 3/4, I know a member here who has a housing and axles for sale. Keep up the good work. This is a great thread!

 

[Swinger 340]

Cooling system going back together.

View attachment 1716223554

Complete with lower hose internal spring, drilled to bleed 180° thermostat, and special for Florida > heat shut off valve.

Distilled Water with 25% Anti-Freeze mix. Florida again, below the freeze line here.


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Not sure why you are using a "manual shut-off" control devise for the heater. Also I always like my coil attached to the engine, for limiting vibrations movements. I know anti-freeze is for cold climates, to help keep the cooling system from freezing, but I believe it also helps in over heating in the south. I would follow the instructions, 50/50 and distilled water as you noted.

 

[JDMopar]

I'd say he just wants to keep extra heat out of the cab by cutting off flow to the heater core. It gets hotter'n the hinges of hell in FL, so anything helps!

 

[Swinger 340]

I'd say he just wants to keep extra heat out of the cab by cutting off flow to the heater core. It gets hotter'n the hinges of hell in FL, so anything helps!

I believe the new vehicles of today let the hot water run all the time through the heating coil and it is the blend doors that open and close for the heating system to operate.

 

[George Jets]

Building a Truck, new shoes.

225 70R 15
Good size, wider footprint. Going on 6.5" wide rims.

Lucky to find them in stock close by.

Prep Boys are peeling the rotten tires off the rims for me.

Truck sat for 6 years in an Alabama pasture, rotted the tires.

3 weeks of direct intense Florida Sun finished them off, and they came apart and blew out. As in this photo below.

No choice, had to get some new rubber on it.


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[George Jets]

Tires stripped off the rims.

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[George Jets]

Cleaning up the rims.

Thankful for some shade out of the direct sunlight.

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[George Jets]

In the process of cleaning up the rims and the bead areas so they seal good to the new tires.

Then after I get the 4 rims painted I will be mounting the new tires here, with this Harbor Freight Manual Tire Machine.

A good way to become a little more self sufficient.

It's just crazy what they get for mounting up tires nowdays.

The new tires will easily slip on the freshly painted rims with the manual tire machine.

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[rumblefish360]

Not sure why you are using a "manual shut-off" control devise for the heater. Also I always like my coil attached to the engine, for limiting vibrations movements. I know anti-freeze is for cold climates, to help keep the cooling system from freezing, but I believe it also helps in over heating in the south. I would follow the instructions, 50/50 and distilled water as you noted.

That is the stock location for the coil and it’s in a better spot being away from the hot engine & exhaust. It’ll see less movement there vs on the engine since the engine vibrates and may rock a little if, OF the motor mounts are worn even a little bit.