Granny's QA1 k-member install

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Granny's Duster

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I have been having trouble with vibration in my 1975 Duster that I converted from a slant 6 to a 320 hp 360 using the conversion kit with the polyurethane inserts. I finally decided to swap out the almost 40 year old k member for a QA1 k member and go back to the old biscuit style rubber motor mounts. So here goes the install...
A picture of the victim...
 

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Here is the QA1 k-member. I also ordered the QA1 lower control arms, and PST's replacement strut rods.
 

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Everything seems to fit together well, and seems well made. I am however, not an engineer - just a shade tree mechanic. According to the instructions, you support the framerails on jackstands, remove the wheels, attach an engine hoist to the motor, unbolt the motor mounts, remove the torsion bars, undo the lower ball joints, unbolt the k member,... and the whole k member, lower control arms, sway bars, strut rods come out at once! WOW! I was able to let the whole assembly down with a floor jack.
 

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I have been reading the "new QA1 k frame thread, and I have so far had the same problem as garyfish 340 with one of the torsion bars (the driver's side) not seating all the way. I am very close, a 1/16" would allow me to install the retaining clip. I have a set of Firm Feel's torsion bars. I will call them and ask them about sanding down the bar a bit. Heck, removing the powder coating
might be enough for mine to seat. I have also been wondering about difference in diameter between the front mounting sleeve in the k member and the supplied bolt. If you used a bushing to take up the space, you might lose any adjustability. I did notice that the tubular K member manufactured by Magnum Force racecar fab also appeared to use the same tube and bolt system.
 
With all due respect Granny, powder coating is nowhere near a 1/16th of an inch thick if it's done right. It's only a few mils ... which doesn't amount to much "wiggle room."
 
Granny's Duster said:
I have been reading the "new QA1 k frame thread, and I have so far had the same problem as garyfish 340 with one of the torsion bars (the driver's side) not seating all the way. I am very close, a 1/16" would allow me to install the retaining clip. I have a set of Firm Feel's torsion bars. I will call them and ask them about sanding down the bar a bit. Heck, removing the powder coating
might be enough for mine to seat. I have also been wondering about difference in diameter between the front mounting sleeve in the k member and the supplied bolt. If you used a bushing to take up the space, you might lose any adjustability. I did notice that the tubular K member manufactured by Magnum Force racecar fab also appeared to use the same tube and bolt system.
Click to expand...

Go back and read the thread. I had the same problem with my factory K and figured out the radius arms were pushing the lower control arm backwards off of the poly bushings making the torsion bar push back out of the bore. try adjusting the radius arms all the way down (pulling the lower control arm more forward), lightly hammer the torsion bars forward, and then install your snap rings. Do yourself a favor and buy some real inside snap rings instead of the cheapo wire retainers. You'll thank me later :)
 
sounds like it just needs a little massaging on the end perhaps. Clean it, de-burr it, even file a fuzz off....you ain't gonna effect the strength or operation tuning up the end to get it to seat.

looks dandy BTW!
 
I finished the QA1 k-member installation. It went really well, I used the biscuit motor mounts and the vibration problem is gone. I took the car to an alignment shop and the car lined up better than it ever has. It also drives great. There is no more slop in the suspension. :burnout:
 
Find someone here besides me who bought a CAP Auto k member, QA1 bought that setup from them. I had alot of issues with mine. I am not saying QA1 is bad but I do know they infact did get that from CAP.
 
wasnt CAP big issue bad welds ? I would think QA1 wouldnt have that issue.
 
loganscuda said:
Find someone here besides me who bought a CAP Auto k member, QA1 bought that setup from them. I had alot of issues with mine. I am not saying QA1 is bad but I do know they infact did get that from CAP.
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AdamR said:
wasnt CAP big issue bad welds ? I would think QA1 wouldnt have that issue.
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They have redesigned it to strengthen the weak areas. They use slightly thicker tubing than CAP and the welds are far better than the originals. I've seen the QA1 K in person and looks very rugged. I'm sure a company like QA1 Did months if not years worth of research and road/race testing with a test mule in order to keep their reputation as a leading performance parts manufacturer.

PoisonDart74 said:
Still no pics eh? Lame.
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Yes, where the hell are the pics? Must be having a blast driving it that he has no time to be on the puter anymore.
 
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