Grateful New Guy

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CSL DART

1971 DART SWINGER
Joined
Mar 11, 2018
Messages
71
Reaction score
36
Location
Beaumont CA
Just purchased 71 Swinger and It's actually the 7th time I've bought a Mopar. Parted with all of them for various reasons and always regretted it for the past several years. I'm so happy to have one again and old enough to appreciate it. Finding this forum is awesome finding others like myself that maybe can't quite afford the B and E bodies, but still a love for hobby. I'm far from a master mechanic, basically a middle aged rookie and the information being shared here is awesome! I look forward to getting to know some of you

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Welcome from west Texas. Clean dart you got. I been looking off and on for a dart or valiant just to make a daily driver out of. Problem is i cant leave good enough alone with anything i have lol. I was into the Bs years ago myself. Never was an E body fan. IMHO, they are both overrated, and ridiculously priced now. The A's are where its at. Lighter a bit less expensive, and lots of hop up parts and mods out there for em. Plus unless its a rare factory 340 or big block car, its not a sin here to mod it into what your version of a muscle car is.

Theres guys here putting new gen 3 hemis in em, GM LS engines in em, turboing the slantys, even one guy putting a cummins 4BT in one. I'm a gen 2 cuda guy myself. This is the best site on the net. Lots of good folks here that can help you with anything you may need help with. Welcome aboard. Dont hesitate to ask questions. I have been in the mopar hobby since i was 15. I am 50 now, and i still put questions out there because i dont know everything myself, however i can always field a question and somebody is always willing to help answer it.

Whats your future plans for it? Engine upgrades, brakes? Paint? Maybe a 340 swinger clone? It looks pretty cool right now. I'm a fan of semiflat black and poverty caps on steelies, and keeping it low key & sleeperish.

Matt
 
Welcome back. What’s it got for motivation; slant or 318? Any immediate changes/upgrades planned?
 
Welcome to FABO and welcome back to the Mopar hobby. I was away from Mopars for 25 years or so and now I have 2. Your future looks bright. Nice Swinger! toolmanmike
 
Welcome! Nice car! Looks like you are about to have fun!
 
Welcome to FABO, nice looking Swinger, the wheels and vented caps (If they are) look like what were on the mopar police cruisers back in that time period, could be wrong though. Still like the car, seems to be in very good condition.
 
Welcome from west Texas. Clean dart you got. I been looking off and on for a dart or valiant just to make a daily driver out of. Problem is i cant leave good enough alone with anything i have lol. I was into the Bs years ago myself. Never was an E body fan. IMHO, they are both overrated, and ridiculously priced now. The A's are where its at. Lighter a bit less expensive, and lots of hop up parts and mods out there for em. Plus unless its a rare factory 340 or big block car, its not a sin here to mod it into what your version of a muscle car is.

Theres guys here putting new gen 3 hemis in em, GM LS engines in em, turboing the slantys, even one guy putting a cummins 4BT in one. I'm a gen 2 cuda guy myself. This is the best site on the net. Lots of good folks here that can help you with anything you may need help with. Welcome aboard. Dont hesitate to ask questions. I have been in the mopar hobby since i was 15. I am 50 now, and i still put questions out there because i dont know everything myself, however i can always field a question and somebody is always willing to help answer it.

Whats your future plans for it? Engine upgrades, brakes? Paint? Maybe a 340 swinger clone? It looks pretty cool right now. I'm a fan of semiflat black and poverty caps on steelies, and keeping it low key & sleeperish.

Matt
Hey Matt, Thanks for reaching out to me! Sorry for the slow response lol, Sounds like we have some things in common, I'm turning 50 later this year. I really like the look of the car and probably won't make a lot of changes going forward other than fine tuning it and possibly throwing some Rallye wheels on it, although I do like the poverty wheels too. It has a LA360 right now with a few upgrades but I'm honestly still checking casting numbers on everything and getting to know the car. For the moment my long term goal with the car is building a bullet proof driver that I can drive the hell out of lol! I've been considering everything from a big block 440, genIII Hemi, or just building a really solid 360 in the 400+ hp range. I've never built an engine, but I'd love to take a stab at it. With this website, YouTube, and the internet it seems more doable than ever! It could be overkill but I really want to concentrate on modernizing the suspension, steering and putting disc brakes all the way around although someone already converted the front to disc brakes. Also want to upgrade the transmission from the current a904 to a 727 and possibly a Dana rear end. The odd thing about my vision is I want the car to have some serious top end and am less concerned about an 11 second quarter mile. So I'll be seeking lots of advice picking out a cam that can provide the best of all worlds and I'm guessing I'll need to have some lower gearing in the rear end. I have a lot to learn but I'm obsessed and very excited to be back in the Mopar world. Have a good one,
Carl
 
Welcome to FABO, nice looking Swinger, the wheels and vented caps (If they are) look like what were on the mopar police cruisers back in that time period, could be wrong though. Still like the car, seems to be in very good condition.
Thanks for the welcome and I think you're correct about the police wheels! I like them on the car even though I do love the Rallye wheels
 
Welcome back. What’s it got for motivation; slant or 318? Any immediate changes/upgrades planned?
Thanks for the welcome! It came with a fairly healthy LA360 which is a huge plus for me and I really like the stock/sleeper look it has. I won't be making a lot of cosmetic changes other than fine tuning, but I'm seriously considering trying to build my first engine and I'm thinking about trying to build a stroker 408. I want to upgrade the electrical, the steering and suspension, the rear end and possibly replace the 904 tranny with the stronger 727. Also would like a Dana rear end up the road. I'm ultimately trying to build a bullet proof driver that I can drive the hell out of and not break. It's been upgraded to front disc brakes, but would like them all the way around. I'm more of a top end guy than a quarter mile track guy so I'm going to choose the cam carefully and go with some freeway gears in the rear end. I'm hoping for the neighborhood of 450hp but at least 400+ ...... have a good one
 
Hi CSL DART,

Looks like you got a good foundation to start with. 400hp out of a 360 is easily doable and if you go that route, i would recomend going internally balanced on the engine. It opens up a world of different torque converters and harmonic balancers you can use over stock externally balanced, however you might also concider making an internally balanced 408-410 stroker out of that 360. I am going that route with my 67 notchback cuda. Reason being is you can run a little less aggressive cam, and compression with the stroker than the 360 and still achieve your 400hp goal. This will give the engine a bit more "manners" and act a little more civilized. I would recommend staying away from the big block only because its going to add weight unless you put it on a severe aluminum diet, plus making it fit. Its a fairly tight fit for a small block.

As far as the suspension goes, most guys when the rebuild their stock front ends looking for a better setup typically add tubular upper arms, box in the lower arms, add polyurethane suspension bushings, and a bigger front swaybar than stock, as well as upgrade the shocks. Steering if your running a saginaw power steering pump you can get more road feel by dialing down the pump pressure. There is a thread on here called pump it down easy . It details how to lower the pump pressure to eliminate that overassisted disconnected feel leaving enough assist for parking or low speed turning.

Your brakes in the front have been converted to BBP disc already as evident by the cop wheels. However if you want bigger discs on the cheap, look no further than 78/79 disco era B body cordobas. Their rotors are almost 12" diameter. These are a bolt on to your dart disc brake spindle. You will also need to source the cordoba caliper brackets and longer caliper bracket bolts to do the swap. Your pads and calipers will fit right back on. Additionally the cordoba calipers use a larger 2.75" dia. piston VS the dart 2.60" dia. one. If you cant find cordoba calipers M body dodge diplomat fury fifth ave from 84-89 also used a 2.75" caliper and its a bolt on as well.

On the rear, and i have been through this. A dana is a good choice but if your thinking Dana 60 its heavy and costly. More better suited to drag racing. An 8&3/4 is also costly. I had to piece mine together and have about $1300 in it including all the swap n trade BS i went thru to build it. My sons 69 we are putting in a ford exploder 8.8 this by far is the cheapest way to go for a good strong rear. The sport trak ones being the ones most guys doing this swap look for. It has the same wheel pattern as mopar BBP big bolt pattern , comes with a locking differential, 3.73 gears standard, and rear disc brakes. The mustang guys use em and theres lots of gear ratios available, C clip eliminators, rebuild kits for the lockers are about $60 with a new cross pin bolt and friction modifier.

There is a thread in here about installing the 8.8 and hooking up the parking brake, how to cut it down to fit, which U joint to use to mate it to the mopar driveshaft, master cylinder to use etc. Some come with an open diff, so look for the L on the diff ID tag. It will give you the gear ratio as well. Example 3L73 is a locker with 3.73 gears. I payed $300 for one complete end to end off a FB trader page needing brake work, though some guys have gotten em for $150 with a.complete brake job already done. Rotors are dirt cheap for $15 each new at rock auto and not worth turning if warped.

On the trans i would recomnend a 46RH from a dodge pickup over a 727. A 46RH is a 727 variant with an overdrive. This allows you to run a set of 3.55s, or 3.73s and hit the O/D button or switch when you get it on the freeway. So around town you can have fun, then cruise on the freeway. 46RE is electronically controlled so dont get one of those it needs a computer. An alternate is the A518 which is an A904 with a full lockup converter. Both of these transmissions will require modification of the car for the rear mount, and driveshaft length.

I hope this gives you more options in the direction of your build.

Matt
 
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Hi CSL DART,

Looks like you got a good foundation to start with. 400hp out of a 360 is easily doable and if you go that route, i would recomend going internally balanced on the engine. It opens up a world of different torque converters and harmonic balancers you can use over stock externally balanced, however you might also concider making an internally balanced 408-410 stroker out of that 360. I am going that route with my 67 notchback cuda. Reason being is you can run a little less aggressive cam, and compression with the stroker than the 360 and still achieve your 400hp goal. This will give the engine a bit more "manners" and act a little more civilized. I would recommend staying away from the big block only because its going to add weight unless you put it on a severe aluminum diet, plus making it fit. Its a fairly tight fit for a small block.

As far as the suspension goes, most guys when the rebuild their stock front ends looking for a better setup typically add tubular upper arms, box in the lower arms, add polyurethane suspension bushings, and a bigger front swaybar than stock, as well as upgrade the shocks. Steering if your running a saginaw power steering pump you can get more road feel by dialing down the pump pressure. There is a thread on here called pump it down easy . It details how to lower the pump pressure to eliminate that overassisted disconnected feel leaving enough assist for parking or low speed turning.

Your brakes in the front have been converted to BBP disc already as evident by the cop wheels. However if you want bigger discs on the cheap, look no further than 78/79 disco era B body cordobas. Their rotors are almost 12" diameter. These are a bolt on to your dart disc brake spindle. You will also need to source the cordoba caliper brackets and longer caliper bracket bolts to do the swap. Your pads and calipers will fit right back on. Additionally the cordoba calipers use a larger 2.75" dia. piston VS the dart 2.60" dia. one. If you cant find cordoba calipers M body dodge diplomat fury fifth ave from 84-89 also used a 2.75" caliper and its a bolt on as well.

On the rear, and i have been through this. A dana is a good choice but if your thinking Dana 60 its heavy and costly. More better suited to drag racing. An 8&3/4 is also costly. I had to piece mine together and have about $1300 in it including all the swap n trade BS i went thru to build it. My sons 69 we are putting in a ford exploder 8.8 this by far is the cheapest way to go for a good strong rear. The sport trak ones being the ones most guys doing this swap look for. It has the same wheel pattern as mopar BBP big bolt pattern , comes with a locking differential, 3.73 gears standard, and rear disc brakes. The mustang guys use em and theres lots of gear ratios available, C clip eliminators, rebuild kits for the lockers are about $60 with a new cross pin bolt and friction modifier.

There is a thread in here about installing the 8.8 and hooking up the parking brake, how to cut it down to fit, which U joint to use to mate it to the mopar driveshaft, master cylinder to use etc. Some come with an open diff, so look for the L on the diff ID tag. It will give you the gear ratio as well. Example 3L73 is a locker with 3.73 gears. I payed $300 for one complete end to end off a FB trader page needing brake work, though some guys have gotten em for $150 with a.complete brake job already done. Rotors are dirt cheap for $15 each new at rock auto and not worth turning if warped.

On the trans i would recomnend a 46RH from a dodge pickup over a 727. A 46RH is a 727 variant with an overdrive. This allows you to run a set of 3.55s, or 3.73s and hit the O/D button or switch when you get it on the freeway. So around town you can have fun, then cruise on the freeway. 46RE is electronically controlled so dont get one of those it needs a computer. An alternate is the A518 which is an A904 with a full lockup converter. Both of these transmissions will require modification of the car for the rear mount.

I hope this gives you more options in the direction of your build.

Matt
Thanks Matt, that's a ton of valuable information! As I mentioned I'm a complete rookie so I'm simply gonna start with buying the 2 recommended "how to build a Mopar small block" books and a Haynes repair manual. I have no timeline to complete the car, I'm simply looking forward to attempting the build and enjoying the entire process. It's likely I'll do a lot of the work myself, but will also probably look to local experts in the area on things that are out of my league... thanks again
 
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