Green Bearing Question

-
What year, time spam did the Grren Bearings change from the problematic non ring clipped bearings to the clipped ones?
I guess now I have to to know, going to me nuts. So now I gotta get a floor jack, jack stands, pull a wheel and pull an axdle and look.
I have to look now and see if I have boogie man green bearings.
You guys got me worried about stuff that's not broken. Maybe I can brake something checking that's always fun. Maybe brake a few lug nuts, screw in studs.
 
67CBodyGuy said:
I just looked through the 5 pages of parts for the 8.75 offered by Dr. Diff, and I only see the tapered roller kit for sale ($128). Set 7. I don't see any "green" or ball bearing kit.

I stumbled upon another vendor - RMS Ron's Machining Service, and they have an OEM tapered bearing package ($100), but in their description they say "New Chrysler 8.75" Green axle bearing kit (pair).". The photo of the kit shows roller bearings. Not ball bearings. So this is confusing. Again I'm confused how a "green" bearing can be a roller bearing. Because if it can be, then what exactly makes a green bearing different than the original factory bearing?
Click to expand...
Mopar Green Bearings for 8 3/4" (8.75) and Dana 60
 
3AA5E863-4DA3-4A40-9C69-29D25E0C0249.png
 
Dartnut said:
Good topic, O.P.
When I visited Kass at Dr.Diff a few years back, he said that there were no issues using the new ''green'' bearings that he sells.
I bought some for my 8 3/4'' rear end under his recommendation.
I still haven't used them yet, and I am still reluctant to use them.
I have heard bad stories in the past about them failing unless they're used in a dedicated 1/4 mile race car only.
Or is that just the old style ones?
The tapered roller bearings that the factory used has to be better, if not, then why were they used O.E.M.?
Were they overkill, or really used because they were much better than the roller ''green'' bearings?
I'm still on the fence with this.
Maybe Kass will log on and straighten things out.
@DoctorDiff
Click to expand...
The old green bearings were very failure prone. I had some in my 69 Charger's 8.75 and they failed through normal driving. I've used Dr Diff's green bearings in my 70 Duster's 8.75 and no issues whatsoever. I would not hesitate to use them today. Some still like to use the OE style that need to have the clearance adjusted but to each their own.
 
Just for reference, I installed “green” bearings from Dr. diff in my 8-3/4 in 2021 when I rebuilt it and have driven it pretty hard on the street with no problems so far. I don’t doubt factory tapered rollers are better, but that was Chrysler. They overbuilt their drive trains. One other advantage of non adjustable bearings is the wheels will be perfectly centered in the wheel wells. When my car had the stock bearings one side was off center close to 1/2” inch
 
On the race cars, we consider bearings to be ware items and time them out after X amount of hours. Each car is a little different in how the uprights are setup but most use sealed ball bearing of some sort. That how they were build in the late 70’s / early 80’s. This car had some crazy 3/8 wide roller X 4.25 cup on the front uprights. While the rear is an inner and outer sealed 6010 bearing in each upright. I’m running the new green bearing from Cass, they looked just fine the last time I changed the chunk out for different gears. We really don’t see failure from the sealed bearing.

IMG_8407.jpeg


We won’t even talk about taper bearings…
IMG_8408.jpeg
 
Scody21 said:
On the race cars, we consider bearings to be ware items and time them out after X amount of hours. Each car is a little different in how the uprights are setup but most use sealed ball bearing of some sort. That how they were build in the late 70’s / early 80’s. This car had some crazy 3/8 wide roller X 4.25 cup on the front uprights. While the rear is an inner and outer sealed 6010 bearing in each upright. I’m running the new green bearing from Cass, they looked just fine the last time I changed the chunk out for different gears. We really don’t see failure from the sealed bearing.

View attachment 1716395921

We won’t even talk about taper bearings…
View attachment 1716395922
Click to expand...
March Indy cars used quite large Tapered Roller Wheel bearings.
We had sets for qualifying that BB had put fine lapping compound in & had 'run them in', & then washed out the lapping compound & built the uprights. Supposed less rolling resistance. Cone retained by bolted ring. Don't remember how preload was set.
 
Woody500 said:
March Indy cars used quite large Tapered Roller Wheel bearings.
We had sets for qualifying that BB had put fine lapping compound in & had 'run them in', & then washed out the lapping compound & built the uprights. Supposed less rolling resistance. Cone retained by bolted ring. Don't remember how preload was set.
Click to expand...
Remembered the preload on March uprigjts was a hardened steel spacer that you had to use a surface grinder w/ magnetic chuck to make sure surfaces were parallel. Lathe not good enough & not all teams had surface grinders.
 
Woody500 said:
Remembered the preload on March uprigjts was a hardened steel spacer that you had to use a surface grinder w/ magnetic chuck to make sure surfaces were parallel. Lathe not good enough & not all teams had surface grinders.
Click to expand...
And factory cast uprights(mag or al-mag) would grow & bearings would get too loose, so we fabricated Steel replacements, still required the surface ground preload spacer.
 
Woody500 said:
And factory cast uprights(mag or al-mag) would grow & bearings would get too loose, so we fabricated Steel replacements, still required the surface ground preload spacer.
Click to expand...
Yep. Each is set up different and how the hubs assemble. No 2 cars in the shop are the same. The March F1 and F2 uprights are very similar but different, not sure on the Indy stuff as they don’t run much in the vintage road course events.
 

jimjimjimmy said:
get the new style then you don't need to remove the thrust buttons in your sure grip .
Click to expand...
and what is the part number for the new bearings. bought some a few years ago and was wondering if they were the same as the new ones.
 
rsherw3 said:
and what is the part number for the new bearings. bought some a few years ago and was wondering if they were the same as the new ones.
Click to expand...
I don't know the part number of the new ones but you can easily tell them apart because the new ones have the retainer ring affixed to them. On the old ones the retainer ring was a separate part. In other words, the old style was a 2 piece assembly while the new ones are one piece
 
jos51700 said:
Lol

he talks about how the hole for the thrust block creates a stress riser. #1, 8 3/4's aren't known for blowing apart in that area and #2, slapping on a set of green bearings ain't filling in that hole or fixing that "problem"

He says axle spline engagement suffers. If you're twisting off axle splines, a green bearing ain't gonna change a thing. The force required to twist off an axle doesn't change the further up the splines you go and if you're stripping the splines off the axle, you've got the wrong setup and the extra depth afforded by green bearings ain't adding enough to change your fate.

"Beaded steel and foam gaskets don’t keep water from running into the housing end" and what does the latest generation of green bearing use to keep water from between the axle flange and the bearing plate? Gaskets.

"Check your A7 bearings if you back your pickup into water" yeah drain your axle no matter what bearing you're running because green bearings don't plug that "pesky" axle vent that's right there on top of the axle. That's user error, dude, not a design error limited to factory bearings.

"Axle flange standout isn't constant" yeah and neither is the body alignment on the leaf springs, the axle location on the leaf springs, the slop in the leaf spring bushings, or anything else on a classic Chrysler vehicle, but that few thousandths of adjustability on the axle bearing? Yeah it's a miracle these cars don't wear the tires prematurely on the left side because that's where the driver sits.

"making a set of axles with adjustable set 7 wheel bearings for a custom application is very hard" Yep, must be, and that's why custom made axles are SO HARD TO FIND, and why they all insist on green bearings when you buy aftermarket axles.

:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

Again, bearing advice from the guy selling the bearings.

Edited to add: run whatever bearings you want, but don't get lied to about why you should run them. The original green bearing was used to eliminate a little drag. That's it. Nothing more.
Click to expand...
About 95% of stock 8.75" clutch sure-grips incorporate narrow, 2 piece side gears. The design only yields about 3/8" spline engagement due to the width of the sliding thrust button in the center and length of the axle shaft, both of which is dictated by the adjustable tapered roller wheel bearing design. In other words, ALL the vehicle's torque is transferred through the last 3/8" of axle spline. Because the wheel bearing adjuster is located on one side only, the opposite side gear often receives even less engagement. Green wheel bearings equalize BOTH axle lengths and after removing the thrust button, they permit a longer than stock axle to yield an additional 1/8" of previously un-used side gear spline. 1/8" doesn't sound like much until you realize you only had 3/8" to begin with! This is not possible with an adjustable tapered roller wheel bearing.

Because the thrust button is no longer necessary with Green wheel bearings, you can also install a pair of solid cross shafts in the differential to eliminate the weak link caused by the hole drilled in the center. Yes, I have replaced many broken power-lock cross shafts and axles with the last 3/8" of splines stripped off.

Most Mopar rear disc brake kits REQUIRE Green wheel bearings because the axle flange stand out is equalized and consistent side-to-side. Drum brake fitment is much more forgiving than brake rotor/caliper fitment.

A Green wheel bearing incorporates an integral seal on both sides, as well as an O-ring around the outside diameter. The design is much more water tight than a tapered roller wheel bearing installed with LASH, a beaded steel inner gasket and a foam outer gasket. The high density gasket included with the second generation Green bearing is nothing more than a shim, designed to prevent the 5-hole retainer plate from bending over the snap-ring during installation. As far as the "pesky" axle vent, a length of fuel hose clamped to the vent and zip tied to the frame rail helps solve the leakage problem when a rear is submerged in water. BTW, I know these tips from personal experience.

Making a pair of axles for a CUSTOM width housing and ADJUSTABLE wheel bearings is not as easy as it sounds because the axle length is critical. Most people measuring their custom width housing use a tape and most people machining those custom shafts also use a tape measure. Most people don't have a 5' long dial caliper. Green bearings are more forgiving because one axle length is not dependent on the other axle length, the width of the center thrust button, the thickness of the brake backing plates and the thickness of the housing end gaskets.

Making a pair of axles for a STOCK application is not a big deal because the dimensions can be duplicated by the machinist from a stock axle shaft sample.

Yes. I am a guy who offers wheel bearing advice, sells Green wheel bearings, sells tapered roller wheel bearings, PRODUCES the tapered roller wheel bearing adjuster/retainer and offers new, stock length axles with your choice of Green wheel bearings or tapered roller wheel bearings. Application is everything. See below:
Mopar Set 7 (A7) Tapered Axle Bearing Package
Mopar Green Bearings for 8 3/4" (8.75) and Dana 60
Mopar Axle Package 5 X 4 1/2" (5 X 4.5) Bolt Pattern 30/35 Spline
 
So I may be wrong but the original quetion was which type of "green" bearing. there are two type one with retaining flange as part of the bearing and one with a clip and flange seperate from the bearing.
 
lilhows340 said:
So I may be wrong but the original quetion was which type of "green" bearing. there are two type one with retaining flange as part of the bearing and one with a clip and flange seperate from the bearing.
Click to expand...

==============
The term green bearing comes from the Green Bearing Company which first produced them. Early designs did have issues, as the crimped-on flange would not allow the bearing to wiggle around inside an axle housing that is not perfectly straight (none are). The most recent style has a snap ring around the outer race. The snap-ring-style “green” bearings are forgiving because they can move around inside the housing, and they do not preload the differential thrust block in a stock application.

That was from here:
www.streetmusclemag.com

Mopar Rearend Rebuild: You Can Do This At Home

Planning a Mopar rearend rebuild? It can be a daunting task, but don't pay someone else to do what you can do at home.
www.streetmusclemag.com www.streetmusclemag.com
==============

I don't know if there are more twists to the green bearing story (ie are there now BETTER green bearings?) since this was written (may 2022).

A lot of people say use tapered bearings for a street car. They're just as difficult to install as green.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Similar threads

go-fish
  • Locked
[SOLD] Cannibalized Green bearing kit
Replies
1
Views
247
LST46
L
Hyper_pak
Axle Seal Question, 8 3/4 Dr. Diff Axle Swap
Replies
5
Views
472
matthon
matthon
RIBOATSERVICES
Who is using Grand Cherokee rear disc on 8 3/4
Replies
12
Views
1K
Dana67Dart
Dana67Dart
Dartndude73
Steering column shaft end bearing question
Replies
5
Views
218
Dartndude73
Dartndude73
Dartndude73
Steering column shaft end bearing question
Replies
0
Views
75
Dartndude73
Dartndude73
Back
Top Bottom