Greg's '71 Dart Swinger project

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rmchrgr

Skate And Destroy
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Well, thought I'd get the ball rolling on my current project, my recently {12/08} purchased '71 Dart Swinger. It's mostly original and in pretty good shape. Car was initially from California and more recently southern Utah near Vegas. As far as I can tell, I am the third owner. I wanted a car that didn't need to be completely dismantled to be painted and I got one. This car is pretty much rust-free except for some surface scale in the trunk. I'm hoping I can clean it up with a wire wheel but we'll see, there may be a pinhole or two. No major rot though which is great. Needs a vinyl top and a few dings knocked out. Paint is oxidized but is passable for now. Engine bay is very clean as is the underside. There's been one repair on the driver's side behind the door but a magnet will still stick to it. Both front and back valances are tweaked too - shocker!

It's a 318 car with column shift 904. B5 blue (my favorite color) with black vinyl top, B5 bench seat interior. Right now it has 14" rallies on it. It's got the wheel lip moldings, belt line trim and the rocker guard deal. Accessories are power brakes, power steering and A/C. It's got a map light and an ignition key light.

The previous owner installed a true dual exhaust system with an h pipe and Flowmaster muffs - it sounds pretty good for a tired old oil-burning 318. He also installed a set of air shocks, presumably because the leaf springs were sagging. It was all jacked up in the rear when it arrived. I lowered it down some and still the little wheels rub over large bumps. Yep, needs new springs!

I have some pretty clear plans for the car. I just bought a 340 block off of member Stroked 340 at Englishtown. Thanks Dave! Engine wise my plan is for an Ed headed 416 stroker similar to what he built. So looks like Eddy heads, Air Gap manifold, Holley carb, cast 4" crank, Diamond pistons, etc. Have yet to decide on a cam but it will be aggressive, probably a max street hydraulic. I've toyed with the idea of keeping the 318 - I have a pair of '302' heads, a set of NOS adjustable rocker arms and a steel crank from a 273 I could use as a basis but I'm leaning more towards the 340. The 318 would likely be cheaper since I have stuff on hand already. We'll see.

The trans will be the 904 but it will be built up to handle some abuse. I plan to install a bolt in sprag, some lighter parts and good clutches, reverse manual valve body and a deep pan - a basic high-performance weekend warrior trans. I've posted a few questions regarding convertors and I've come to the conclusion I'll probably need a custom one built for my application. I imagine it will be 'tight' for street driving and upwards of 3,500 rpm stall.

There's an a-body 8 3/4 housing sitting in my garage and an MP aluminum center section assembled with 4.10 gears sitting on a shelf in my basement waiting to be installed. It will get a set of offset spring hangers but probably not mini tubs for now. I'm hoping to fit a 275/60/15 drag radial with this set up. It will get a set of Cal Tracs too and I will finally have a use for the Wilwood front calipers I bought for my Belvedere. Frame connectors will go in at some point and if I run the 11 second times I'm hoping for, I'll need a roll bar.

I've always been partial to the factory race cars - the '65 A990's and the '68 Hemi 'Cudas and Darts. I'm also interested in the 'day 2' look, or the idea that someone would have bought a stripped down car for street racing and immediately put some mag or slot wheels on it to give it a menacing vibe to all comers. It's not an over-the-top look though so I'd like to try to keep the outward modifications as subtle as possible. I'm always of the idea the less is more and like my cars to as stripped down as possible while maintaining the regular passenger car feel. I have acquired a radio delete plate for this car to keep the low-budget sedan vibe going. I have a set of NOS A-100 van seats I'm debating on using. I'd get some blue covers for them but I'm not decided whether or not to go this route since they're not 'period correct' so I might stay with the current bench seat. I also recently bought a set of Fenton Gyro front runners in a nod to the early Pro Stock period. No bumble bee stripes or spoilers for this car, no giant hood scoop, (perhaps a factory A-body dual snorkel or six pack, not sure) no flashy chrome. My initial thoughts are to get a set of Coker classic Pro Trac front runners because they look like tires that someone would have run with these rims in 1971. Also, the column will be converted to floor shift 'cause column shifters are for grandma. I'm also going to get a Tuff Wheel to replace the rim blow on there now. Looks more 'race inspired'.

So, right now nothing is happening. My wife and I just moved in to our house in January and there are still a million things to do. I also am planning on making my garage into a proper shop which will take a lot of money and effort. I don't expect all this stuff to happen quickly either so I'm glad I can drive the car as is for a while. I've been down the project car road before with a '65 Belvedere I post car. I had it for 10 years and never drove it once. I'm not interested in doing that again so the Dart will be my rolling laboratory.

Immediate things that need to be done will require some disassembly but nothing too major that will keep me out of commission for a long time. I need to replace the turn signal switch so the column will have to either come out or at least be partially disassembled. I plan to convert to floor-shift at this time and also use my Flaming River manual box while ditching the power steering. If I do this, I also need to install a floor shifter- I have plans for a Hurst Quarter Stick right now.

I will try to post pics as I do stuff but I can't guarantee that will happen. I also don't know how few and far between post will be, there will likely be long idle periods. In any event, here's some pics to start of the car in it's current state and of some of the stuff I've gathered so far.
'Til next time.

- Greg

left front.jpg


right rear.jpg


rear.jpg


340 block and rear.jpg


engine.jpg


interior.jpg


Gyros.jpg


diff.jpg


radio delete.jpg
 
Rmchrgr,for starters,nice car!You,ve got a nice little project planned,and I,d go with the 340.Build it and when the time is right(and money,s spent)drop it in,you,ll probably have 1/2 the other stuff done already(brakes,tranny$$,rear chunk$$)and your already there with the clean car.This one will be easy for you cause it,s all bolt on stuff.Good luck with your great plan.Sounds nice,and thanks for the column!The blinkers work.
 
Just bought a repro Tuff Wheel for the car, which I posted about in another thread.

As stated above in my initial post, this will be one of the things I plan to address immediately. I have most everything on hand for my first foray into modifying the Dart. I am still however in the process of obtaining a floor-shift column collar, the shifter and the belt.

Here's an outline of the project:

• Remove original rim blow wheel, remove column.
• Replace worn out TS switch.
• While column is out, remove power steering system, replace with
Flaming River manual box.
• Convert column to floor shift with collar
• Remove column shift linkage and hardware.
• Install Firm Feel PS to manual adapter.
• R&R brake light switch. (just in case this is my issue)
• Re-install column.
• Install Tuff Wheel.
• Install Hurst Quarter Stick forward pattern shifter.
• Replace accessory belt.
• Drive!

Will update when I do all this stuff, hopefully in the next few weeks. I'm bummed, the car is just sitting because of a brake light issue which I'm pretty sure is related to the TS switch. I don't want to take things apart then re-do the whole thing again. I'll just wait until it all gets here.

In the meantime I need to install a hanging light over my workbench so I have somewhere to do all this.

Until the next installment...
 
Just to update anyone who thought I'm still trying to sell the Dart - I'm keeping the car. I'm over my first bout of distaste since I flirted with selling. I had a few ridiculous offers and one or two serious queries but no one stepped up. In the interim I decided to keep it. I'll probably go through another bout of displeasure with it at some point again but the more work I do too it, the less inclined I'll be to sell it.

In any event, haven't got to do too much lately. I seem to have a starting problem right now - first thing I did was to check the battery under a load test - seems OK. I suspect some sort of resistance problem somewhere. Have yet to check into the fuel/spark situation. Easy stuff first.

In other news, I finally started digging in to the trunk to assess what is needed and it turns out that the damage is a little more extensive than what I first thought ('natch). It's not real bad, like gaping holes or anything but there are several pinholes. I'm thinking of getting a new trunk floor from AMD since they are factory replacement style and you don't have to cut holes for the filler neck or the body plugs. I've considered patches but once I start cutting out spot welds, I thought I might as well go whole hog and just do it right. I spent a few minutes with a wire wheel, putty knife and a grinder to reveal what lurks below. Here's some pics.

Right side along trunk extension seam.
IMG_8749.jpg


Close up, note pinholes. Metal is really starting to flake here.
IMG_8750.jpg


Spare tire well. Though hard to see there are some pinholes on the lower right.
IMG_8751.jpg


Left side along trunk extension seam.
IMG_8752.jpg



Seam under rear window, adjacent to wheel tub. Took a grinder to it here to make sure there was no rot on the panel that is forward of the trunk floor since there is no replacement for that. Looks fine, should be good to go after the trunk floor is out.
IMG_8756.jpg


Trunk hinge where water dripped down and collected. Surrounding area is clean.
IMG_8757.jpg


Not sure what this box is called, but it will have to be drilled at the bottom. There's a whole bunch of seam sealer slatehered on between the trunk floor and tail panel and halfway up this box that will have to be removed.
IMG_8759.jpg


Frame rails are in excellent shape!
IMG_8758.jpg


Good article about replacing a trunk floor published in Mopar Muscle a long time ago here. Looks like Randy used a non-AMD part that did not even have the filler neck provision. I see those on Ebay, they're about $100 cheaper than the AMD ones. You get what you pay for I guess.

Untill next time!
 
Did your Rim-Blo crack/split in one section? It could be an exact duplicate of mine if it did.
Good luck on the project. Your trunk is much in the same shape as mine was when I got it.
 
Thats rust is not bad at all. She is in nice shape. Good luck on your build.

Thanks for the compliment.

Yeah, the rust really is not that bad. I could slime it with POR 15 and roll with it as is but it'd always be in the back of my mind to fix it right.
 
Hey ramchrgr!Glad to hear your keeping the car,you just don,t see them in that condition anymore.Your right about the t.pan,might aswell do it right the first time.Are you building the 340 as a strocker or stock?What is that chunk you have?The threaded holes on it,is that for 4 link setup?Never seen one like it?Anyway,good luck with the build,I,ll be following closely.
 
Hey ramchrgr!Glad to hear your keeping the car,you just don,t see them in that condition anymore.

Yeah, just didn't make sense to try and sell. I'm liking it more these days, it's really a cool car... when it starts.


Your right about the t.pan,might aswell do it right the first time.

Doesn't seem to be a huge job, just labor intensive.


Are you building the 340 as a strocker or stock?

haven't decided yet, I go backand forth on that daily. I really like the 3.79" crank which yields 392". Anyone running one of those cranks blows doors.

What is that chunk you have?The threaded holes on it,is that for 4 link setup?Never seen one like it?

The threaded holes are how it attaches to the axle housing, bolts up like any other 8 3/4.
 
About the chunk,sorry I meant to say the other part of the casting with the bolt heads.Looks like some kind of brackets bolt up to?
 
Well, I have some ambitious plans for the Dart that I plan to tackle in the upcoming weeks.

First off, I needed to replace the water pump on the old 318 - it's leaking and chirping. Got a decent one from Mancini on sale for $30. No gasket though, grrrr.

Second, my power steering pump is leaking pretty badly. My plan was to ditch the P.S. anyway, so I figured nows the time since I'll have the drive belts off. Getting the P.S. stuff out with minimal clearance underneath is going to be fun. Plus, this little project has now snowballed into a myriad list of things I'm going to try and accomplish:
  • remove power steering system
  • replace with Flaming River manual box, using Firm Feel adapter
  • alter steering column with floor-shift collar
  • install new turn signal switch
  • install Hurst floor shifter
Based on the above info, I will be removing the column to do this stuff, so the car will be off the road for a bit. While the column is out I also plan to do the following:
  • remove power brake booster and replace with lightweight aluminum master cylinder, converting to manual disc brakes.
  • remove heater and A/C parts from under dashboard
  • fix exhaust leak
The A/C stuff will be getting removed from the engine bay as well.

I recently just agreed to purchase an LD4B manifold for the 'teen and I'm looking around locally for a Holley 600 carb. I will need linkage, so I've been scouring the classifieds and Ebay. I also want to replace the points dizzy with an electronic unit and hook it up to the MSD I have.

I'm tossing around the idea of a cam swap with the manifold and installing the set of 302 heads I have sitting in my garage and maybe a set of cheapo Summit headers. I like the idea of one of those econo MP converters, just to get something in there and maybe a shift kit. Best way to do the cam would be while the water pump is out so guess I gotta make the call on this soon. Either way, the car will be off the road for a bit.

Finishing my rear end will be a short term goal too. I have most everything except axles. That however means a new driveshaft and some brake stuff as well. Larger wheels and tires are in the short plan too. I have the wheels, just need the tires, probably 255/60/15 and some narrow fronts.

For now, I've toned down my initial plans for a fire-breathing 11 second street machine in hopes of some more realistic goals and immediate gratification. I'd really like to get out to the drags more often and get some seat time under my belt.

Gonna have to do some fancy talking with the wife but I hope to make it happen. Not getting a whole lot of satisfaction out of the car in the state it's in now. I'm definitely in for the accessory job, the steering column and shifter since all these parts are on hand already, no outlay of cash for that stuff. Hopefully my wife buys the argument that I'm trying to be more realistic but it's still going to require money to make all this stuff happen. She's been encouraging in the past but this one might be a stretch.

Anyone interested in a complete (accessories included) '72 steel crank 440 to help me fund my project? 8)

Just a side note - I have a history of taking things apart and abandoning them in the middle. I'm aware of this little character flaw I have and I'm ready to face the challenge of accomplishing my goals and getting it all back together in a reasonable amount of time. I have most of the stuff I need save for a few odds and ends. Plus I now have a well-lit garage I can go out to anytime and work in which is something I've never had the luxury of before. Hoping I'm not biting off more than I can chew.

I'm encouraged as to write this out, makes me think I have a somewhat clear plan.

Pics coming as things happen.

- Greg
 
Are you still getting rid of the air conditioning components? And, does the compressor work or has it seized?

I was planning on holding on to it in case I wanted to use it on something in the future. Worked OK.

I take it you're looking for A/C stuff?
 
little steps, little steps. do your original plan of the steering column then put it back together and drive it. Then do you rear or the water pump/cam then drive it. I too get half way done and abandon so I know that this is a system that works.
Nice looking car though.
 
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