Ground locations (ALL)

[Bronze Barracuda]

Hi. I am removing my entire wiring harness from my 1968 barracuda. I have discovered some obvious repairs/modifications? I am going to attempt to repair the original wiring harness as it looks to be in decent condition. I will be cleaning all connectors and replacing sockets and terminals where needed. as well as adding a line to the floor console area as the car was originally a column shift. (is the switch on the console shifter the starter neutral safety switch, does that need a ground)? As this car was not running when I got it, and I will be pulling the entire drivetrain as well as the complete wiring harness dash and instrument panel. I would like to know where all ground locations are or should be? I have been told you can never have to many grounds, haha. Aside from the obvious locations like battery negative to engine maybe a 10 gauge ground from negative to rad support? Engine block to firewall? any grounds near fuel tank ie; for sending unit? Under dash grounds? Cluster grounds? Centre console???
Any help/advice thanks to all.

 

[famous bob]

Hi. I am removing my entire wiring harness from my 1968 barracuda. I have discovered some obvious repairs/modifications? I am going to attempt to repair the original wiring harness as it looks to be in decent condition. I will be cleaning all connectors and replacing sockets and terminals where needed. as well as adding a line to the floor console area as the car was originally a column shift. (is the switch on the console shifter the starter neutral safety switch, does that need a ground)? As this car was not running when I got it, and I will be pulling the entire drivetrain as well as the complete wiring harness dash and instrument panel. I would like to know where all ground locations are or should be? I have been told you can never have to many grounds, haha. Aside from the obvious locations like battery negative to engine maybe a 10 gauge ground from negative to rad support? Engine block to firewall? any grounds near fuel tank ie; for sending unit? Under dash grounds? Cluster grounds? Centre console???
Any help/advice thanks to all.

52 YR OLD WIRING , not so good. I`d rewire the whole car , a ground on every light , and under the dash too.

 

[4spdragtop]

I can't remember what the console switch is for, the NSS is located on transmission itself.
Go to mymopar.com and download FREE factory manuals including elec schematics for it.

 

[67Dart273]

In 68 the column switch is the reverse lamp switch, so, no ground. It gets power "hot' when the key is on, through the switch, then back to the reverse lamps. As steve said, 68 had a (single terminal) NSS switch on the transmission. It grounded one of the flag terminals of the starter relay in P or N

Battery ground to body can "never be" big enough. Not original but what I like to do is buy an eyelet-to-eyelet starter cable about a foot long. The same holes on the rear of the driver's head are on the front of the pass side head. bolt the cable to one of the rear holes and then to the firewall. The studs on the master work good.

Add a pigtail ground from the instrument cluster and run/ bolt to the column support or dash frame

The tank sender had an interesting ground. It was a spring clip that jumpered around the short fuel hose from the sender to the fuel line. I know of no really good way to sub that, maybe solder a pigtail to the sender fuel tube before you install it, or clamp it to that tube with a hose clalmp. Run the wire to a body ground.

 

[Bronze Barracuda]

In 68 the column switch is the reverse lamp switch, so, no ground. It gets power "hot' when the key is on, through the switch, then back to the reverse lamps. As steve said, 68 had a (single terminal) NSS switch on the transmission. It grounded one of the flag terminals of the starter relay in P or N

Battery ground to body can "never be" big enough. Not original but what I like to do is buy an eyelet-to-eyelet starter cable about a foot long. The same holes on the rear of the driver's head are on the front of the pass side head. bolt the cable to one of the rear holes and then to the firewall. The studs on the master work good.

Add a pigtail ground from the instrument cluster and run/ bolt to the column support or dash frame

The tank sender had an interesting ground. It was a spring clip that jumpered around the short fuel hose from the sender to the fuel line. I know of no really good way to sub that, maybe solder a pigtail to the sender fuel tube before you install it, or clamp it to that tube with a hose clalmp. Run the wire to a body ground.

Thanks the instrument cluster was one that definitely had me scratching my head!

 

[Bronze Barracuda]

In 68 the column switch is the reverse lamp switch, so, no ground. It gets power "hot' when the key is on, through the switch, then back to the reverse lamps. As steve said, 68 had a (single terminal) NSS switch on the transmission. It grounded one of the flag terminals of the starter relay in P or N

Battery ground to body can "never be" big enough. Not original but what I like to do is buy an eyelet-to-eyelet starter cable about a foot long. The same holes on the rear of the driver's head are on the front of the pass side head. bolt the cable to one of the rear holes and then to the firewall. The studs on the master work good.

Add a pigtail ground from the instrument cluster and run/ bolt to the column support or dash frame

The tank sender had an interesting ground. It was a spring clip that jumpered around the short fuel hose from the sender to the fuel line. I know of no really good way to sub that, maybe solder a pigtail to the sender fuel tube before you install it, or clamp it to that tube with a hose clalmp. Run the wire to a body ground.

Also great idea for the rear driver head to master cylinder mounting bolt. Thanks again.

 

[RedFish]

If my memory serves there was a ground wire under the center console. Served indicator lamp or lighter well or both.