grounding

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wireweld

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Should there be a ground wire on one of the starter bolts, would this help?
I have a ground wire from the right front of the head to frame and left rear of the head to frame. Some times, especially if its been heat soaked after driving it seems to drag some.
 
Ground wires should be a triangle, like;

Battery to body
body to engine
engine to battery

If any of the wires are aftermarklet/replacement/home made, perhaps a thicker gauge would help and on all 3 wires. Clean clean contact area tightly snuggged down.

Also, the starter could be taking on a bit of heat. Headers? Heat sheild!
Battery OK? Overcharging? Cells filled with fluid?
 
If the starter works fine cold and drags after heat soak electrical current isn't the issue.
 
RedFish said:
If the starter works fine cold and drags after heat soak electrical current isn't the issue.
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X2 I wonder if the timing is set a bit to high, Just a thought :happy10:
 
If all your - and + battery connections are clean and tight and all the recommendation above are good it might be time, What engine are we talking about ?
Is it a stock build ? When the engine is cold it will spin over easier.
 
Check and see how many amps that starter is drawing. That might steer you in right direction.
 
MMM I got one stinkin ground from battery too block and a stock /6 cable at that. I have had no problems but sounds like I had better do some more grounding.
 
The starter grounds itself to the block, so no, no wire from the starter as long as the engine has a good ground.
 
Grounding! Per the after market wiring system I am using you can "never have enough grounds".

My Negative battery cable is run to a starter bolt. You could run a ground from the starter bolt to to a frame rail or just run it to your negative battery post. It won't hurt and you could rule that out.

Also, as stated above the timing could be off.

Those are a couple of simple things your could rule out right away.

Good Luck.
 
This starter is on a 600hp 416. The battery is relocated to the trunk. I used 2 gauge wire for the +. Hooked the negative to a bare metal spot where the supports are on the rear of the trunk.
 
wireweld said:
This starter is on a 600hp 416. The battery is relocated to the trunk. I used 2 gauge wire for the +. Hooked the negative to a bare metal spot where the supports are on the rear of the trunk.
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ahh now we hit the trouble area!, the engine needs to be hooked to a negative battery cable in my experince to work good, if this is not possible at least clean the grounding spot and add a ground cable from engine to frame (thick) to replace the one suppost to be hooked from engine to battery negative
 
wireweld said:
Is not the grounds from heads to frame enough?
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in my experience all mopar products need a good ground, I had a stock 318 once in a truck that I painted the engine in and when I went to start it the cables got so hot they would smoke, cleaning the paint off under the ground helped and I have remembered that since.

it could very well be your starter I would start with a starter current draw test where that won't cost much if you don't have the equipment to do it, then if thats okay run a full ground to the front or at least try to make it better somehow.
 
The problem on older cars is the massive gaps between panels - your only continuous path front to back is the frame rail. Shoddy spotwelds, big gaps filled with seam sealer, etc. will all put up a fight to your little electron buddies trying to get back to the trunk.
 
Replaced the starter and it turns over much better. The wires at the starter looked like they got hot and burned the insulation off. I replaced with 2 gauge cable.
 
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