Guess that noise

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skep419 said:
It's the first time using a high volume pump. I'm guessing I sucked the stock pan dry while passing a minivan in high gear. Tach was climbing past 5500 before letting off and the knock started immediately after.
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If that is the failure mode you would find considerable damage to most of the bearings, for sure not just one. What do the rest of the bearings look like?
 
512Stroker said:
If that is the failure mode you would find considerable damage to most of the bearings, for sure not just one. What do the rest of the bearings look like?
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The rest of the bearings look good.
50DA6A90-05DE-4272-8C22-9EA60E9604A9.jpeg
 
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skep419 said:
The rest of the bearings look good.
View attachment 1715928960
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With the "rest of the bearings look good" your HV oil pump did not suck the pan dry and cause the failure.
Were the rods resized properly by a engine machinist prior to reassembly?
Did you measure the bearing clearance for all 8 rods during assemble?
 
512Stroker said:
With the "rest of the bearings look good" your HV oil pump did not suck the pan dry and cause the failure.
Were the rods resized properly by a engine machinist prior to reassembly?
Did you measure the bearing clearance for all 8 rods during assemble?
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This was my first engine build from start to finish. I didn't have high expectations. I only checked a couple rods/mains but they were all the same. Ring gap was at .020 (also only checked a couple) The crank was from one engine, rods and pistons from another, nothing balanced. Block has ate 5 sets of rods/mains. The fact that in ran at all was a surprise.

Thanks for clarifying that it wasn't the oil pump.
 
skep419 said:
This was my first engine build from start to finish. I didn't have high expectations. I only checked a couple rods/mains but they were all the same. Ring gap was at .020 (also only checked a couple) The crank was from one engine, rods and pistons from another, nothing balanced. Block has ate 5 sets of rods/mains. The fact that in ran at all was a surprise.

Thanks for clarifying that it wasn't the oil pump.
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Talk about learnig the hard way!
If you want to learn how to properly rebuild an engine and get good results you need to become a student of the practice. Read, take classes, communicate with others. The parts are to $expensive to keep doing it wrong - "ate 5 sets of bearings". Or have a qualified engine shop build out your long block, it will most likely save you money in the long run.
Good luck and happy hunting.
 
512Stroker said:
Talk about learnig the hard way!
If you want to learn how to properly rebuild an engine and get good results you need to become a student of the practice. Read, take classes, communicate with others. The parts are to $expensive to keep doing it wrong - "ate 5 sets of bearings". Or have a qualified engine shop build out your long block, it will most likely save you money in the long run.
Good luck and happy hunting.
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The 5 sets of rod bearings were from a reputable engine shop. I had a fresh block bored and it still ate the bearings (this is the block I was using when I spun the bearing) The only thing left to replace with the other rotating assembly was the crank. The plan was to have another crank balanced with my good rods and pistons. I had it at the builder for like 4 months and they were to busy so I decided to pick it up and throw old parts together. It didn't work out but neither did "doing it right"
 
skep419 said:
The 5 sets of rod bearings were from a reputable engine shop. I had a fresh block bored and it still ate the bearings (this is the block I was using when I spun the bearing) The only thing left to replace with the other rotating assembly was the crank. The plan was to have another crank balanced with my good rods and pistons. I had it at the builder for like 4 months and they were to busy so I decided to pick it up and throw old parts together. It didn't work out but neither did "doing it right"
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Dam
I would use a different builder
Buy a complete pre balanced crank, rod and pston rotating assembly set.
Tell the new engine builder about the problems you have had so he can check the block over thoroughly.
None of this will be cheap$.
 
512Stroker said:
Dam
I would use a different builder
Buy a complete pre balanced crank, rod and pston rotating assembly set.
Tell the new engine builder about the problems you have had so he can check the block over thoroughly.
None of this will be cheap$.
Click to expand...

Hence the 5.9 magnum pictured in post #73
hopefully it stays running for the summer hahaha
 
on the bright side, now you got a valid excuse to buy a stroker crank
 
512Stroker said:
?
Did it start leaking again?
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I slapt together a 5.9 magnum using a cheap speedmaster intake. It's leaking coolant from the dual bolt pattern LA plug.

I probably should have just started a new thread. It's hard to keep track of all these failures hahaha.
 
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In my experience, a HV pump will not cause any problem with oil pressure until you exceed 6000 RPM. My Kevco Pan takes care of that with the baffles. I know I've pissed him off, but GTX John has the information you need.
 
I still send love and respect to him in front of all FABO family members. Paul.
 
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