Guide to carbs

[1930]

I may be soon going thru a Holley 1920 carb, Not sure where I am going to get the carb kit from, alot of choices and I have asked on-line about a Ethanol friendly kit without much response.

Before I go thru it Id like to read something that gives me a better idea of things I should be looking for as I am going thru the re-build process.

I have read alot on-line that for instance such items as the idle mixture screw being turned all the way in and all the way out just doesnt affect idle any longer due to something internally worn out ( I am guessing ) in the carb.

Evidently people overtighten the screw and mess up the seat. Evidently from what I have read this is pretty common and once it has happened the carb is junk.

Another good example would be the ( possible ) warped float cover I have an issue with now. From what I have read placing the cover on a flat piece of glass and gently trying to rock it back and forth is a way to determine if the cover is warped.

I have read a few somewhat vague posts on how to correct this issue but would like to read something more specific.

I would never have known this unless I stumbled upon a thread on-line that mentioned it.

What other potential problems might I be faced with?

I am pretty sure these kits do not come with any fix for some of these issues so why try and re-build a carb that may have issues that cannot be resolved.

How would one check for things while in the re-building process unless he were aware of the possible issues?

I am reading about some potential issues like mentioned above but a quick reference guide specific to these Chrysler 1 barrel carbs and 2 barrel BBDs would be nice to see.

A guide to re-building a common Holley 4 barrel is not going to do me much good I do not believe.


Having something like this ahead of time would really save people alot of headache.

Does anyone know of such a guide?

 

[Pompis]

I just rebuilt my 1920 yesterday with parts from Mikes Carburetor as he seemed to have the most complete kit with quality parts. He also have good instruction videos how to do the rebuild. In the kit you also get a instruction how to rebuild the carb. You need to identify which 1920 you have so you order the right kit, he have a video for how to identify the carb too. I post all the the links and vidoes you need at the bottom.

It's a pretty easy rebuild but what you need probably to put new bushings for the throttle shaft. Mike's Carburetor didn't have the bushings in right size but I was fortunate that my uncle turned new bushings on the lathe in brass.

I don't now if the kit is Ethanol friendly or do you mean E10 fuel?

I did also took the metering block apart as in his instruction video and that's maybe the hardest part since you can screw it up if you not beeing carless.

My Valiant is now running so much better now and I think it's because I followed the instructions how to tune the carb carefully. I also have a warped bowl and I don't now how to fix it but maybe going to put some type of sealer since it's leaking a little.

Good Luck!

http://www.carburetor-parts.com/1920-Carburetor-Parts_c_131.html

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-htTHAkBvc"]Holley 1920 Carburetor Rebuild Part 1 - YouTube[/ame]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1_BgrLEgrM"]Holley 1920 Carburetor Rebuild - Part 2 - YouTube[/ame]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvHZg4E7Lc4&list=PLH1vmaV2bg5y4d-aIlJfuBNLG3npD_vbi"]Holley 1920 Carburetor Identification - YouTube[/ame]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkOxvi6TD2o"]Holley 1920 1 Barrel Troubleshooting - YouTube[/ame]

 

[nm9stheham]

Mike's Carburator is a good source for the kit; as above, their application guide with the list numbers is the most complete around. Sorensen is another source; Otteezone and maybe others see Sorensen. Get the 4 digit list number off the carb first thing; that is the key to the right kit. It will be a stamped number. (Not a cast number which is the individual casting PN).

The needle and seat in my 1920 kit from Mike's were supposedly OK for ethanol.

Another variable is the accelerator pump rod, both style and length. There are 2 variations on this; Sorensen kits come in a few versions for this difference. My Mike's kit came with the wrong one , but I modified/rebuilt the new diaphragm with the old rod and went on my way. Mike's sell both types.

Throttle shaft bushings can be checked before ordering. Mine were like new.

If you have a grain scale for measuring light things like bullet powder loads, then wipe the old float dry as soon as you pull it out of the carb and weigh it right then to see if it has absorbed any gas and is heavy. There are 2 weights: 7.4 oz and 12.7 oz. The floats are not in production anymore. Mike's carries the 12.4 oz float; I would get one as they are not produced. I have put the lighter float in place of the heavier one and it was fine; I assume the heavier will work in place of the lighter too.

Look at Mike's video on rebuilding the Holley 1920 as posted above; they are super videos.

My bowl leaked when the gasket was new but I re-tightened several times and it is fine now.

 

[1930]

I just rebuilt my 1920 yesterday with parts from Mikes Carburetor as he seemed to have the most complete kit with quality parts. He also have good instruction videos how to do the rebuild. In the kit you also get a instruction how to rebuild the carb. You need to identify which 1920 you have so you order the right kit, he have a video for how to identify the carb too. I post all the the links and vidoes you need at the bottom.

It's a pretty easy rebuild but what you need probably to put new bushings for the throttle shaft. Mike's Carburetor didn't have the bushings in right size but I was fortunate that my uncle turned new bushings on the lathe in brass.



I don't now if the kit is Ethanol friendly or do you mean E10 fuel?

I did also took the metering block apart as in his instruction video and that's maybe the hardest part since you can screw it up if you not beeing carless.

My Valiant is now running so much better now and I think it's because I followed the instructions how to tune the carb carefully. I also have a warped bowl and I don't now how to fix it but maybe going to put some type of sealer since it's leaking a little.

Good Luck!

http://www.carburetor-parts.com/1920-Carburetor-Parts_c_131.html

Holley 1920 Carburetor Rebuild Part 1 - YouTube

Holley 1920 Carburetor Rebuild - Part 2 - YouTube

Holley 1920 Carburetor Identification - YouTube

Holley 1920 1 Barrel Troubleshooting - YouTube

Thanks pompis, I am going to check out the video. I see you car and I like it. Good luck with your build!

 

[1930]

Mike's Carburator is a good source for the kit; as above, their application guide with the list numbers is the most complete around. Sorensen is another source; Otteezone and maybe others see Sorensen. Get the 4 digit list number off the carb first thing; that is the key to the right kit. It will be a stamped number. (Not a cast number which is the individual casting PN).

The needle and seat in my 1920 kit from Mike's were supposedly OK for ethanol.

Another variable is the accelerator pump rod, both style and length. There are 2 variations on this; Sorensen kits come in a few versions for this difference. My Mike's kit came with the wrong one , but I modified/rebuilt the new diaphragm with the old rod and went on my way. Mike's sell both types.

Throttle shaft bushings can be checked before ordering. Mine were like new.

If you have a grain scale for measuring light things like bullet powder loads, then wipe the old float dry as soon as you pull it out of the carb and weigh it right then to see if it has absorbed any gas and is heavy. There are 2 weights: 7.4 oz and 12.7 oz. The floats are not in production anymore. Mike's carries the 12.4 oz float; I would get one as they are not produced. I have put the lighter float in place of the heavier one and it was fine; I assume the heavier will work in place of the lighter too.

Look at Mike's video on rebuilding the Holley 1920 as posted above; they are super videos.

My bowl leaked when the gasket was new but I re-tightened several times and it is fine now.

Thanks for the info, I plan to view the videos, do a bit more re-search and give Mikes a call.

I dont have the grain scale though

 

[nm9stheham]

Well Mike's sent me the lighter float out of a bin of what they thought was all the heavier ones....they seemed shocked that someone actually weighed one! And even more shocked that they even had a light one.....they sent me a heavy one for free, with paid shipping, since that was what I ordered. That is the kind of service that anyone should like. I'll return the light one when I get it out 'for their museum' I suppose.....

So, I would just order what they have and put it in.

 

[Pompis]

Thanks pompis, I am going to check out the video. I see you car and I like it. Good luck with your build!

Thanks, my Dart is getting a overhaul and I have done much more things on my Dart but been lazy on updating my progress. Have recently bought a Valiant that have a Slant 225 with the Holley 1920 that I rebuilt.

I used loctite 5922 to put on both sides on the fuel bowl gasket to seal the leakage caused by warped fuel bowl. It doesn't leak so far.

If you need some other miscellaneous parts for the 1920 here's a link to another good supplier.

https://buy.walkerproducts.com/carb...holley-1bbl-1904-1-carburetor-components.html

 

[nm9stheham]

FYI, you can find listing for the 1920 floats on the Walker site, but they have none in stock and are not in production.....

 

[pishta]

Every one i seen has its bowl mounts mangled. Try straightening them on anvil with a pick hammer , it shoud be flat for the gasket. Most i see touch before the gasket is compressed.