downsr
Well-Known Member
Have 70 duster that the brake pedal is really hard to push.Going to try and bleed brakes to make sure fluid is getting to each wheel cylinder.Any one have this problem.Everything in the brake system is new
Hard brakes
- Thread starter downsr
- Start date
-
including the power booster?
After sitting for a while.... UGH! what a discovery.
After sitting for a while.... UGH! what a discovery.
downsr
Well-Known Member
Mine does not have power booster
On the back of the pedals pushrod, there is a rubber-ish grommet like thing that goes around the pushrod.
(Ya know what I mean?)
Is it there?
How long has the car been sitting?
(Ya know what I mean?)
Is it there?
How long has the car been sitting?
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
More details needed. What means "hard to push?"
You push the pedal and it doesn't stop well?
Or the pedal is hard to move?
How did you get the system bled if the pedal is hard to move?
Do the brakes seem to be locked up?
downsr
Well-Known Member
It doe not have a brake booster just master cylinder bolted to fire wall.There is a regulator for the back wheels mounted below master cylinder.The car has front disc brakes and drum rear.
The pedal is hard to push from the start and the car will not stop very easily.I am going to bleed brakes in a couple hours to see if i am getting fluid to them.All brake lines regulator and master cylinder is new.The car has not been sitting.
The pedal is hard to push from the start and the car will not stop very easily.I am going to bleed brakes in a couple hours to see if i am getting fluid to them.All brake lines regulator and master cylinder is new.The car has not been sitting.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
OK you still have not explained. Is the pedal hard to push..........
as if the pedal and pivot were rusted up?
as if the master cylinder is bound up / stuck / rusted / plugged?
Or is it more it has a high hard pedal (which it should) and the brakes simply don't stop very well?
I'd agree that bleeding would tell you if the system "moves fluid freely" but I don't understand "how you got to here." That is, if there is a tubing / hose restriction, having bled them the first time should have told you that
What is the bore size of the master, that is does that master belong on that combination?
as if the pedal and pivot were rusted up?
as if the master cylinder is bound up / stuck / rusted / plugged?
Or is it more it has a high hard pedal (which it should) and the brakes simply don't stop very well?
I'd agree that bleeding would tell you if the system "moves fluid freely" but I don't understand "how you got to here." That is, if there is a tubing / hose restriction, having bled them the first time should have told you that
What is the bore size of the master, that is does that master belong on that combination?
downsr
Well-Known Member
Ever since i done the brakes it has had a high hard pedal .But for some reason it is a lot worse.I was thinking if the regulator to the back wheels was not working it may cause this that is why i was going to see if fluid came out of all wheel cylinders and how much pressure
Dr dan
Dr. Dan
You don't say what Master Cylinder you are using, are the disc brakes OEM on this car or from another vehicle?
Has the problem existed for ever or just since some service was performed?
When you bleed the brake are you getting a good stream from all four wheels?
When it does stop does it stop straight, or does it pull one way or the other or slide a wheel, (best checked on dirt).
the things we're checking for are:
Mismatched Master cylinder,
frozen/stuck calipers or wheel cylinders.
improperly installed parts. poor quality parts.
I had this problem when I put late model disk brakes on my '64 Belvedere. with a duel master cylinder non power. I sold the car before the problem was completely resolved but the next step for me was a master cylinder with a different bore size.
Also check for a restricted brake line some where in the system.
Just because the parts are new does not mean they are working properly!
Has the problem existed for ever or just since some service was performed?
When you bleed the brake are you getting a good stream from all four wheels?
When it does stop does it stop straight, or does it pull one way or the other or slide a wheel, (best checked on dirt).
the things we're checking for are:
Mismatched Master cylinder,
frozen/stuck calipers or wheel cylinders.
improperly installed parts. poor quality parts.
I had this problem when I put late model disk brakes on my '64 Belvedere. with a duel master cylinder non power. I sold the car before the problem was completely resolved but the next step for me was a master cylinder with a different bore size.
Also check for a restricted brake line some where in the system.
Just because the parts are new does not mean they are working properly!
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Please read my signature. Sometimes when one of us asks you a question WE REALLY DO expect an answer.
IS THE master cylinder correct for the car and what is the bore size?
downsr
Well-Known Member
I do not know what the bore size is.It has factory disc brakes and the master cylinder is new from right stuff
That bore size is important, could be part of the issue.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
For manual brakes, most people here like a 15/16" or 7/8" D bore MC. Any larger and you might need line-backer thighs. The fronts do 70% of the braking (when correct), so focus there. Take it out and jam on the brakes until all 4 tires skid and look at the black stripes. That is what they do on the Fantom Works show (Velocity cable). Your front calipers may be not working. The K-H ones are notorious for rusting up, and how SSBC got their start, refurb'ing the same calipers on 60's Mustang's. With front jacked up, try turning a front wheel as your babe pushes the pedal. Replacements are fairly cheap on rockauto.
Downsr, did you switch from power to manual???
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
OK, well the part no that you bought "from them" would be a start.
2 Darts
A-body Addicted
Did you bleed master cylinder?
-
