Harmonic balancer pulling problem

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Diaddigo

Diaddigo

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A few months ago, I developed a sudden timing problem on my 1972 Plymouth Duster which I have since concluded that its the timing chain as it is probably the original one so I decided to check it out. I pulled everything out of the way to get to the balancer and noticed I have these beautiful studs already stuck in my balancer so I can't use my fantastic cheapo balancer puller. are these even supposed to be there? how do I get them out? you can see my slight coolant spillage and the pan underneath.
 

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What was holding the crank pulley on?
 
Ok, I got the balancer off and about 11 of the timing chain cover bolts off (I ran out of time and didn't get to finish). Once I check the chain and fix it (if it needs it), is there a way I can test it without having to put it all back?
 
Once you get the timing cover off, it will be pretty obvious if the timing chain is loose. I just installed a new timing chain set (chain + gears) on my /6 and it was not "floppy" like the 186,000 mile-old chain I replaced.

As far as "testing it" with the timing chain cover off, I suppose you technically could fire up the motor with no harmonic balancer/pulley, but it would fling oil around pretty badly (as well as not pump coolant or spin the alternator; okay to do for a VERY short while).

I'd consider it a pretty 'binary' problem: either the chain is loose, or it isn't. Putting a new chain + timing gears on should give you plenty peace of mind enough to go ahead and bolt everything back together before firing it up. You will at least have ruled out a stretching timing chain. If the timing is still acting weird, then it may be time to go ahead and pull the distributor out and start from there.
 
RustyRatRod said:
What was holding the crank pulley on?
Click to expand...
The simplest single pulley setup uses just the belt groove on the balancer. No other pulley's are mounted on the hub in that case.

You'll need to replace the chain so plan on that. They don't last all that well. The improvement in driveability will be very noticeable so is VERY much worth it.

No testing is needed for the chain itself once installed right. Just triple check that the dots on the sprockets line up perfectly with the bolt hole centerlines on the crank and cam, and you are good to go. Torque the cam bolt to 45-50 ft lbs AND use Locktite, after cleaning all oil off the threads of the bolt and inside the cam snout with solvent or alcohol; the manual says 35 ft-lbs but these tend to come loose. Make sure you put some sealer like RTV or teflon tape on the bolt near the top that goes into the water jacket. You probably found that one!

You don't say anything specific about your 'timing problem'. Keep in mind that the outer portion of the balancer can slip when the rubber that holds it to the hub gets old. Check this by using a probe in the number 1 spark plug hole to feel for the piston top and use that to set the #1 piston to exact TDC; do this as precisely as you can. Then slip the balancer partway on, lined up by the crank key, and check that the balancer/pulley timing mark lines up with 0 on the timing scale.
 
Just curious - was the pulley closest to the timing chain cover bolts to the balancer with extra long bolts. Usually the rear most pulley is for AC.
 
Thanks guys! Do you guys have any recommendations for a timing chain set? I did figure out that the studs sticking out were holding the ac pulley on from the back and that the holes I needed for the puller were so packed full of dirt and grime that i couldn't see them. I had another forum for the timing problem as well as a link to a video of what its doing.
 
Either the stock Cloyes timing set will do, or if you want a double roller: From /6.org:
"Another is to part one together from your local auto [] uses the old cloyes numbers :s338 cam sprocket, s339 crank, c168 chain..."

The other thread had no resolution or any info on what else you checked.... so did the prior rebuilder not put in a new timing chain?
 
There is no test. You line it up on the bench,and make sure it stays lined up, when it goes on. Bad-a-bing. If the rads out(should be), you can eyeball it before the cover goes on.
 
Thanks for the input! The prior rebuilder didn't change the 15 year old spark plugs that were in it while it sat. I wound have never known it was even rebuilt if I hadn't seen it all apart (he never took off the timing chain cover). As much it frustrates me that I basically paid him to do nothing, it does run (when things aren't broken), I got the car itself for free, and I'm probably doing a 340 swap eventually.
 
LOL... that sounds like a recent CL add I read....

"Engine runs great but needs starter and battery...." Really?? And you started it with an auto trans HOW? So, yeah define 'rebuilt'....
 
Diaddigo said:
Thanks guys! Do you guys have any recommendations for a timing chain set? I did figure out that the studs sticking out were holding the ac pulley on from the back and that the holes I needed for the puller were so packed full of dirt and grime that i couldn't see them. I had another forum for the timing problem as well as a link to a video of what its doing.
Click to expand...

You can get a double roller timing chain and gears from NAPA for the slant, they are sold separately...

I don't have the part numbers anymore....
 
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