kielbasavw
Well-Known Member
Got it to run. Not exactly sure how. Just kept messing with ****. But it runs horribly. Seems like missing. I'm so confused
has spark and fuel, wont start.
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kielbasavw
Well-Known Member
Got it to run. Not exactly sure how. Just kept messing with ****. But it runs horribly. Seems like missing. I'm so confused
jwh70valiant
Well-Known Member
I had the same type problem with my 70 Valiant. I ended up draining the battery trying to get the car to start. At first, I thought the car didn't have spark, so I checked my points and cap. It was getting spark and fuel, and I knew it was getting compression. My friend's dad told me that my auto choke probably went bad. I took my air breather off, took the choke off, shoved a screwdriver into the carburator to hold it open, got in the car, pushed the accelerator all the way to the floor, and started the car. Sure enough, it almost instantly started and stayed running! Since then I have replaced my choke, and have had no more problems.
If you have compression, spark and fuel, then it might be your choke.
If you have compression, spark and fuel, then it might be your choke.
Gnome
Well-Known Member
which "orange county are you located? CA? VA? maybe someone close to you can give you a hand...
kielbasavw
Well-Known Member
Ca please help lol
Gnome
Well-Known Member
well if your were in Va i would definitely help. but maybe some one closer to you can.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Hard to say, "running rough."
Got a meter? Pull all the plug wires and check continuity. Shake 'em around looking for bad spots
Inspect the cap for "carbon tracking" and cracks, same with rotor
Electronic? Bad reluctor gap can cause rough running, as can improper timing.
Carb??
Lots of stuff. You probably need to find someone to help you nearby at this point
ef8340
Well-Known Member
did you change your voltage regulator ?
Get a volt meter and find out where you do or dont have 12 volts. Here's why...
The large positive battery cable and a good battery will spin the engine fine but that wire doesn't power the car. A problem in the alternator, ignition switch, bulk head connecter, etc.. can produce voltage drop.
The ballast resistor is proof that the engine will run on less that 12 volts. The way the ignition is wired to bypass that resistor in the start position is proof that the engine needs 12 volts to start.
An engine that is tuned fairly well will start on the weaker spark if you block the choke open and feck with it long enough. Hours or days later you're back to square one. That is very likely the change in resistance at the bad connection that comes from heat and movement.
Quite a few of my IVR customers while reporting there gauge faults will state that the amp gauge twitches violently with the trun signal flash. There's your sign of a weak electrical system. Hope this helps
The large positive battery cable and a good battery will spin the engine fine but that wire doesn't power the car. A problem in the alternator, ignition switch, bulk head connecter, etc.. can produce voltage drop.
The ballast resistor is proof that the engine will run on less that 12 volts. The way the ignition is wired to bypass that resistor in the start position is proof that the engine needs 12 volts to start.
An engine that is tuned fairly well will start on the weaker spark if you block the choke open and feck with it long enough. Hours or days later you're back to square one. That is very likely the change in resistance at the bad connection that comes from heat and movement.
Quite a few of my IVR customers while reporting there gauge faults will state that the amp gauge twitches violently with the trun signal flash. There's your sign of a weak electrical system. Hope this helps
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