hate a body headers

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gsone1

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I'm trying to get the headers out of the car,the motor is out.On the drivers side i have the ball joint unhooked but can't seem to get the one on the steering box arm to come loose, can anyone shine some light on this. am I ok using a pickle fork...thanks gsone1
 
I'm trying to get the headers out of the car,the motor is out.On the drivers side i have the ball joint unhooked but can't seem to get the one on the steering box arm to come loose, can anyone shine some light on this. am I ok using a pickle fork...thanks gsone1
The passenger side will just lift out with the motor out of the car. The drivers side should only have one steering arm going through it. With that unhooked, it should also lift out. You are correct, A-body headers are a pain. My advice is if a person is looking for a street cruiser, and not looking to go faster than high 13's, stick with manifolds. I've seen where a 69 barracuda actually reached high 12's with manifolds with a mild 360, 904 and 3.91's. Anyways, my 2 cents
 
Uh? You do know? that not all headers are entangled in the steering? Dougs...............TTIs....
 
Disconnect the drag link from the driver's side tie rod and pitman arm...that's what worked for me...
 
Uh? You do know? that not all headers are entangled in the steering? Dougs...............TTIs....

Yeah this it true, but if the engine's out and he's still having difficulty, it's pretty fair to guess he has some of the tangled ones...
 
Uh? You do know? that not all headers are entangled in the steering? Dougs...............TTIs....
Yes, we know... but he doesn't have them. They are a little expensive, too
 
Mine came out easy with a Sawzall.

I only have a dremel tool, but I have cut off wheels! The tangled ones suck! I still have the engine in the car, but I'm gonna be cutting the drivers side, who wants tangled headers that have a 4 bolt flange? NO ONE! No loss there. I'm glad I have a set of tti's to go with my 440 that's going in.
 
Mine came out easy with a Sawzall.

That's the way I got mine out of my 67 cuda. I did not plan to reuse. The op may want to reuse his. I use two methods to remove tie rod ends ball joints and pitman. Remove cotter pin loosen nut and smack side of joint with a hammer 2 or 3 shots and it will drop off. I also have a pickle fork that works with my air hammer (HF). This will screw up boots so I like the hammer method.
 
That's the way I got mine out of my 67 cuda. I did not plan to reuse. The op may want to reuse his. I use two methods to remove tie rod ends ball joints and pitman. Remove cotter pin loosen nut and smack side of joint with a hammer 2 or 3 shots and it will drop off. I also have a pickle fork that works with my air hammer (HF). This will screw up boots so I like the hammer method.


If you use a pickle fork on an air hammer, don't use the two piece screw-together type. They absorb part of the impact. Find a one piece pickle fork at a good tool man - Mack, Matco, Snap-on etc... They work much better and are worth the extra money. :cheers:


Now with a hand pickle fork. Sometimes you have to "attack" it from different angles to get them to split. Try going at it from different angles, or try turning the steering to different positions to help get on it better and then whack away.... :violent1: (no masturbation jokes implied)... :sad1:
 
Mine came out easy with a Sawzall.

I thought about that when removing them, but then common sense got the better of me. I unhooked the drag link, turned the wheel all the way and it came right out. Then I sold the old junky Hooker headers for $80 on Craigslist! Guy was on a tight budget and damned glad to get them.

Most auto part stores will rent/loan you the correct tool to remove tie rod ends without damaging the boots like a pickle fork will.

6401d1034377134-tie-rod-removal-tool-dsc00822.jpg
 
I thought about that when removing them, but then common sense got the better of me. I unhooked the drag link, turned the wheel all the way and it came right out. Then I sold the old junky Hooker headers for $80 on Craigslist! Guy was on a tight budget and damned glad to get them.

Most auto part stores will rent/loan you the correct tool to remove tie rod ends without damaging the boots like a pickle fork will.

Amen and Amen!!!! This is the correct way to remove the header! And, someone else will be glad to pay you for your headache!
 
I'm pretty sure the tti header has the steering arm going through it too
I had to take the draglink loose to put them in.
 
I'm pretty sure the tti header has the steering arm going through it too
I had to take the draglink loose to put them in.

nope but the smallblock ones does have one slipjoint tube wrap around the driverside torsionbar but nothing wraping around the steeringparts,however they are much easier to install with the centerlink dropped down if the engine is in the car
 
I assume you guys are talking about 67 and later a bodies. TTI headers for early A's are a pain to install. Just trying to make you feel better about it..
 
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