Header fitment rant, Doug's

Mopar Exhaust Systems

  1. forphorty

    forphorty Well-Known Member

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    My car is manual steering and 904 . My #3 tube is about 1/2 away from pan. Can't get a finger between them. My engine mount bisquits are about 1.25 inch thick . don't know what the application was, they were given to me. They are about double the thickness of the cheap India mounts that were on there, which I have have been told are typically thinner than stock. I welded plates along the side to make them solid. The aftermarket trans dipstick is very close to the firewall. I had to jack the DS header over to get the torsion bar in. It is very close to the torsion bar and I may tweak it a little more. I have added absolutely no dents to the headers. The car is not yet fully assembled.

    duster 9-29-19 008.JPG
     
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    • forphorty

      forphorty Well-Known Member

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      more

      duster 9-29-19 010.JPG

      duster  5-3-17 002.JPG
       
    • 72bluNblu

      72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Less than a lot and more than a little? I've never worried about it, it wasn't an interference issue. So probably at least a 1/2" or more.

      I'll see if I can look at it tomorrow. Now that I've gone hydraulic I don't have a z-bar stuffed in there anymore so I may be able to check it without getting under the car. I have a Milodon road race pan, but the kick-outs are ahead of anywhere the #3 tube should be so I should have a relevant reference point to measure from.
       
    • 72bluNblu

      72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Alright, you got me. The #3 tube is only about a 1/4" off the pan on my car. Kinda looks like more than that, but a 1/4" drive extension won't fit between the pan and the header so it's less than .315"(diameter of the extension). Looks like the part of the pan closest to the header should be the same as a standard pan too.

      #3 header tube looking back toward the starter
      IMG_7006.jpeg
      #3 looking forward from the tight spot
      IMG_7011.jpeg
      #3 and the starter terminals. Main connections are on top of the block at the top of the picture. Lower wire is undamaged after ~20k miles, has a good 1/2" of clearance to #3.
      IMG_7009.jpeg
       
    • famous bob

      famous bob mopar misfit FABO Gold Member

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      I wrap or insulate the offending part or recieveing part when things are that close---
       
    • 72bluNblu

      72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      And yet 20k miles later there's not even any discoloration. Almost like it's completely fine just like it is.
       
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      • yellow rose

        yellow rose Doctor of Thinkology.

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        ive got tubes that close or closer. As long as it doesn't touch, it's good to go.
         
      • famous bob

        famous bob mopar misfit FABO Gold Member

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        MY no.1 and 2 header tubes melt valve cover gaskets. I wrapped those two tubes and even have gasket gaurds on the covers themselves , along w/ the burn proof gaskets from hughs . Almost works !
         
      • yellow rose

        yellow rose Doctor of Thinkology.

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        LOL. The exhaust is pretty hot up there. I can imagine the valve cover gaskets don't like all that heat there.
         
      • famous bob

        famous bob mopar misfit FABO Gold Member

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        Think the raised port heads contribute to that too !
         
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        • MOA

          MOA Well-Known Member

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          Thanks Blu. That's what I needed to see. Mine would need to come over 3/8" or so for .3125 clearance. The first header is almost touching the starter wire, the second one gives more clearance but not enough.
           
        • inertia

          inertia Well-Known Member

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