Header to steering gearbox clearance

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Evan Dutch

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Well, bit of a dilemma for me.

I’ve got a 360 magnum in my 71 scamp. Put some Doug’s headers on it recently. The primary tube is way too close to the return hose from my power steering gearbox. So much so that I’ve heat wrapped the return hose and safety wired the wrap in place.

But, as you can see. The header is touching the heatwrap and it isn’t enough to protect the return hose from the heat.

Anyone else have a similar issue? Are there 45 degree or offset fittings I can replace the factory return port fitting with to move the return hose away from the header?

IMG_0191.jpeg
 
That black heat wrap is the correct stuff, but the installation is not correct method. You maybe anole to change the fittings to AN / JIC and make new hoses, but they will still have to be wrapped.

Changing to a manual box will solve all these issues….
 

That black heat wrap is the correct stuff, but the installation is not correct method. You maybe anole to change the fittings to AN / JIC and make new hoses, but they will still have to be wrapped.

Changing to a manual box will solve all these issues….
Power steering will be kept. I figured out a solution. Cut the barb off the original fitting, drilled and tapped the hole of the original fitting to 1/8npt. I’ll install a 1/8npt to 3/8 barb 45 degree fitting into that, which will move the return hose away from the header. And I’ll reinstall the heat wrap. I’ll try to post some pics when I’m done with it.
 
I didn't have that issue with my 65. Are you sure the motor mounts haven't sagged? Maybe some shims under the mounts?
 
It’s an easy fix just to have longer hoses made so you can move them out of harm’s way. I’ve always had great luck at NAPA getting hoses made.
 
I didn't have that issue with my 65. Are you sure the motor mounts haven't sagged? Maybe some shims under the mounts?
I have solid motor mounts. They have shims under them currently. Can’t raise them any higher as the hood would interfere with the intake
 
I have solid motor mounts. They have shims under them currently. Can’t raise them any higher as the hood would interfere with the intake
Then it sounds like the new hose idea is the fix.
 
On my 66- Doug’s headers so ended up going to a borgerson box because even with a return line cooler it was was too hot. My 72 with a 340 and Doug’s it fits nice. I don’t even have a cooler.
I concur on the mounts. Either they (yours) are sagging or the engine is rotated too close to the box. If you loosen the lower and upper nuts the engine can move side to side some.
 
On my 66- Doug’s headers so ended up going to a borgerson box because even with a return line cooler it was was too hot. My 72 with a 340 and Doug’s it fits nice. I don’t even have a cooler.
I concur on the mounts. Either they (yours) are sagging or the engine is rotated too close to the box. If you loosen the lower and upper nuts the engine can move side to side some.
I’ll go with the borgenson box in the future. But for now I’m going to make this work, my mounts are solid so there is no give in them, and I’ve shimmed the drivers mount to gain clearance from the box, it’s still very close
 
What do you mean by solid mount? Are you saying that you have an aluminum plate across the front of your engine? Post #9 is correct, your engine can be moved side to side and up and down with the 3 bolts bracket to engine, up to 1/2".
 
What do you mean by solid mount? Are you saying that you have an aluminum plate across the front of your engine? Post #9 is correct, your engine can be moved side to side and up and down with the 3 bolts bracket to engine, up to 1/2".
They are biscuit style mounts, but instead of rubber, they are all metal
 
There are a few different aluminum fitting adaptors for the stock control valve. Look at one from a B van. some of those go straight forward/down instead of up at an angle.
 
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something like this may help:


also, because it's low pressure return you have a lot of leeway in how you want to go about it. there's fittings out there to do what you need to. either way i'd keep the wrap on there to protect it.
 
I was able to come up with a solution, I’ll try to get some pics soon. Essentially, I cut the 3/8in nipple off of the original return port. Drilled and tapped the hole to accept 1/8npt. Added a 45 degree fitting, then a 1/8npt to 3/8 barb and clocked it to face away from the header
 
I cut the 3/8in nipple off of the original return port. Drilled and tapped the hole to accept 1/8npt. Added a 45 degree fitting, then a 1/8npt to 3/8 barb and clocked it to face away from the header

Here’s a pic of what the fitting looks like now. Still close to the header but further away. Should be okay now. I’ll keep an eye on it.

IMG_0193.jpeg


IMG_0194.jpeg


IMG_0195.jpeg
 
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