Headlight Switch - Should it pull out to turn on? 1967 Barracuda

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barracuda-67

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Does the headlight switch pull out to turn on parking lights and headlights? (It's a round knob on the left side of the instrument panel)

Mine rotates but won't pull. I'm afraid to pull it too hard.

Thanks,
 
Yes pull out one notch parking flights, second notch head lights.

Rotation is dimmer for dash lights and if you rotate till it clicks it turns on the map / courtesy lights.

If it won't pull out easily you have issues.

The only way to remove the switch irls to remove the knob and stem.

There is a button on the top (IIRC) side of the switch under the dash.

You pull the knob to headlights then press the button and the knob and stem come out of the switch.

How rusty is the car?


knob with stem
Screenshot_20230517-143912.png


Switch red arrow points to button to remove stem when mounted on the car the button might be facing up?

Screenshot_20230517-143941.png
 
Wow, thank you for such a thorough answer, @Dana67Dart !

There is some minor corrosion here and there, but not much inside the passenger compartment.

I will spray some penetrating oil (non-graphite) in around the shaft, and I'll press that release button to remove the post and knob.

Those detailed photos you sent will be helpful, thanks!
 
This is lights off position.
1684357767448.png


Removing the shaft and knob assembly would be the first step in removing the switch itself.

Yes. Its possible to pull the knob off the shaft. On a '67 it will have to be epoxied back on.

With the shaft out, then the lock nut is removed.
1684358178047.png


Removing the connector from the switch requires releasing the two latches. If needed go one at a time and work it off.
1684358727486.png
 
Yes. Its possible to pull the knob off the shaft. On a '67 it will have to be epoxied back on
BUT you don't want to if it can be helped.

Personally I would rather take a cutoff wheel to the switch than break the knob and stem
 
BUT you don't want to if it can be helped.

Personally I would rather take a cutoff wheel to the switch than break the knob and stem
Lost me on this Dana.
If hte switch is frozen and the knob comes off in has hand, the switch nad stem can be removed intact. Then figure out whats going on.
 
My point is I would rather destroy the switch ( cut it in half if need be) than damage the knob and stem.

The switch is replaceable.
 
Thanks, all!
That makes sense - switches can probably be purchased from a few places. Nobody is making more knobs, is my assumption.

I'll try 'gentle persuasion' and penetrant spray, then plan to reach behind the panel and release the knob.

If releasing won't work, then I'll destroy the switch but save the knob and stem.

All those photos of the switch are SUPER helpful, thanks!
 
Also keep in mind as you may be troubleshooting, the "little tricks" (electrically) of the switch
1...Headlights ONLY are powered by an UNFUSED wire from the big welded splice in the black ammeter wire a few inches from the ammeter. That is a big main branch junction.

2...Park, tail, and dash lamps are powered off a fuse in the panel

3...The dimmer controlled dash lamps are a "trick." Power to the light switch as (2) comes from the fuse for the park/ tail circuit, and of course the switch must be in either park or head. The dimmer control must be twisted somewhat to the left. THAT power now LEAVES the light switch on TAN and goes TO the fuse panel "INST" fuse. Through that, and then orange wiring distribuites to all the dimmer controlled lighting.
 
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