@$##@% Heads!

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formula would be as follows (T*L) divided by (L+E)= X


T= torque spec you are trying to achieve
L= Torque wrench lengh centerline of square drive to centerline of handle grip
E= center line of square drive in crows foot to center line of wrench end
X= actual torque you will be measuring with torque wrench

Now that we got that as clear as mud, lets do an example: so you need to torque a fastner to 200 inch pounds. the lenght of your torque wrench is six inches (thats what she thinks anyhow and you're not about to correct her are you). your crows foot measures three inches (poor littl' guy)
so we go 200*6 (1200) divided by 6+3 (9) = 133.3 inch pounds

so now we can all get are crows feet out and torque are middle intake bolts with confidence! .. Or you can go to German spec and make everything Guedantight and spends the extra hour, and half dozen brain cells on a nice cold beer !
 
I did the same thing going from a Chiltons, yes 30 is too much. Luckilly I was able to unthread mine by hand as it broke the head off at the rocker assembly. try 12-18ft lbs.
 
Longgones' quote:That same thing happened to my friends heads when we installed the rockers on his engine. Just like you we found a book that referenced 30 ft./lbs.. We also found other books that said something (measured in inch pounds but) equalling around 22 ft./lbs..

You can't always trust the printers. There's alot of strange crap that goes on in the printing world..................trust me, printing for 35 years untill economic meltdown!! LOL!:-D
 
Any of you guys ever heard of using a welder to get them out? A mig works really good. It just requires a really steady hand. Did one sunday night on a 318 ex stud broken off just below the surface.

I've done this on body bolts, say for broken or seized truck box bolts on newer Fords back when I was a collision man. Even broken off these bolts will still get a grip thanks to the shank on 'em. If I'm thinking of the same technique you're talking about welding a smaller diameter bolt to what's there and then using a wrench to back 'em out? Been forced to use that technique on equipment back when I was a kid and working for the local town DOT.
Ford has issues with the exhaust manifold studs breaking on the F-series. Spent a lot of time with my head stuck in the fender wells replacing the studs and manifolds on the 4.6s, the 5.4s, and the V10s. Sometimes I would get lucky and the studs would break flush with the manifold and I could back them out with Vise Grips, other times they would break inside the head. I would center punch this with a spring loaded punch and drill a small hole. Because it was usually a long reach in there I would use a Torx-bit socket on a long sacrificial 1/4 drive extension dedicated to the job and tap the Torx bit into the hole then turn it out with a ratchet. The b**** was if the thing didn't want to move and a then out came the torch for a little judicious heat on the stud while trying not to heat the aluminum head. Tricky.
For those of us who've had to deal with rusty exhaust manifold bolts on those corroded 906s or 915s worth saving, I've seen my old man blow the steel bolt out with a torch. The steel turns to butter long before the cast iron gets heated enough to do any damage.
 
Broken bolts LOL I did plant maintanance in a textile mill for 10 years. If I had a nickle for every broken bolt I've removed with WD=40 and a dental pick I could buy that resinator I want.
As for the broken tap mentioned, either hit hard enough to shatter it or aneal it ( turn it cherry red with a torch ) then drill it out. Good luck
 
I'll try to talk you through this process. V e r y carefully and as straight in as possible put a dot of weld on the broken bolt end. I am assuming that it is a little below the surface. Be very carefull not to stick it to the iron of the head. Keep adding to the dot to build it up toward the open area. When you get it high enough, lay a flat washer over your weld. Weld the washer to the bolt. That done weld a nut to the washer. Let cool a bit and hopefully it will turn out easily. Did an end stud on a 318 head sunday night. It was off the car so it was much easier. Did an ex bolt on an AMC 360 in frame a couple of weeks ago. If you have any junk heads laying around screw a bolt in until it breaks. Do a practice run first. It takes a lot of patience. Did several on JD tractors last winter with a special stick rod. The bolts were much bigger but they were horizontal. I have some pics, hopefully they load ok.

Jackie

Can't get the pics to go! If anyone can upload them email me at

[email protected]
 
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