heater hoses, 1973 dart swinger small block

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joshua dewitt

joshua dewitt

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ok, hooking up heater hoses. need to get a replacement heater control valve... since not original,. hate to spend house dollars on a 20.00 item. can use one form ford ranger etc, inline 17.99 at AutoZone on line.... but are all 5/8 hose size, ok if I ran it backwards, correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the inlet on heater core form the 1/2 tube off the intake manifold t- stat side, and return on 5/8 side into water pump housing? an ideas on running an inexpensive prefer metal one, no biggie... the car dos have factory a/c as well. any other options out there for 1/2 in and out 2 nipple heater valve for these cars?
 
It doesn't matter which hose you stop the flow of, as it has the same effect either way.

As far as a non stock replacement you can use anything that adapts to your controls.

I put a 5/8 brass PEX barbed ball valve in my hose under the hood and just switch it twice a year.
(Way simpler) :D
 

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So the heated water stay out of the heater core when you do not want heat, same as the factory control works.
 
halifaxhops said:
So the heated water stay out of the heater core when you do not want heat, same as the factory control works.
Click to expand...

Yup, when it's a hundred degrees out it's nice to be able to stop the heater box from getting hot. :D

Even though you can stop the air flowing through it with the controls, the box still gets hot from the hot coolant flowing through it.
 
yeah you might be right the factory one doesn't have a control valve in it that has a heater bypass. so even it I do sop the flow one way the other is still open right? because the issue of having a defroster, and heater in cooler moths, and rainy days, would be nice, could I stop vavle both sides of it, and open I cooler months? like a ball valve?
 
TrailBeast said:
It doesn't matter which hose you stop the flow of, as it has the same effect either way.

As far as a non stock replacement you can use anything that adapts to your controls.

I put a 5/8 brass PEX barbed ball valve in my hose under the hood and just switch it twice a year.
(Way simpler) :D
Click to expand...

That is EXACTLY what I did on mine, except I just used 3/8" pipe nipples
 
joshua dewitt said:
yeah you might be right the factory one doesn't have a control valve in it that has a heater bypass. so even it I do sop the flow one way the other is still open right? because the issue of having a defroster, and heater in cooler moths, and rainy days, would be nice, could I stop vavle both sides of it, and open I cooler months? like a ball valve?
Click to expand...

One will stop the flow completely through the heater core. Is yours vacuum controlled? I have a used one from a ram that still works. Think it is 5/8
 
or, do you think it is a good or bad idea to block off heater core at all, and let free flow... keeps corrosion from happening better, since its hot most of the time here.. a/c would be used more, ( once is all tighter and operating) what are your guys opinions on this?
 
I used to use a C-clamp and a couple of wooden shims,except in July/August, when I would loop one heater hose around onto the other nipple and render the core useless. But I couldn't go out in the rain cuz it wouldn't keep the window clear of moisture.In winter I would clamp the silicone bypass,making the heater core the bypass.
 
joshua dewitt said:
or, do you think it is a good or bad idea to block off heater core at all, and let free flow... keeps corrosion from happening better, since its hot most of the time here.. a/c would be used more, ( once is all tighter and operating) what are your guys opinions on this?
Click to expand...

I agree that blocking the flow (in or out of the core) does not matter one bit, because the coolant simply can not flow into the core if the coolant already in the core can't exit.
See, nothing out/nothing in.

Stopping the flow for a few months isn't going to cause corrosion or contamination and blockage of the core unless there was a bunch of garbage flowing through your system when you stopped the flow letting stuff settle inside the core, and I doubt that is the case. :D
Besides, practically every vehicle out there for decades has used a valve to do exactly what the putting a valve in there does. (they just stop hot coolant to the core by blocking the flow of one hose.)

Open it for a day every once in awhile if that helps you feel better about it.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I used to use a C-clamp and a couple of wooden shims,except in July/August, when I would loop one heater hose around onto the other nipple and render the core useless. But I couldn't go out in the rain cuz it wouldn't keep the window clear of moisture.In winter I would clamp the silicone bypass,making the heater core the bypass.
Click to expand...

A C clamp and shim valve. :D

You could put a slipknot around the hose and drill holes in the firewall and dash to put a rope through, and knots spaced apart that pulled through a big hole with a slot at the bottom for adjusting or shutting off the flow.

How's that for the ultimate Redneck shut off valve.:prayer:
 
TrailBeast said:
A C clamp and shim valve. :D

You could put a slipknot around the hose and drill holes in the firewall and dash to put a rope through, and knots spaced apart that pulled through a big hole with a slot at the bottom for adjusting or shutting off the flow.

How's that for the ultimate Redneck shut off valve.:prayer:
Click to expand...

I thought it was "hey darling hold this hoos reel tight"
 
well I went with the pex ball shut off valves, and appears to work well, I also trimmed down the handles smaller since all the custom work under the hood, working on fabing a bracket for my a/c to work now, converted my mine to sanden a/c compressor and making it work to still use the factory 2 belt system. used a big block idler pulley, and bracket from b/s engineering, but didn't fit quite right, still fabing up stuff, almost done, just need a little longer belt now @ 1.5-2" longer and should do it, post pics when all done!!!
 
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