Help: Charging and Ignition Wiring Diagram (New Wiring)

[delt127]

I'm helping my 17-year-old son rewire his 1972 Dodge Dart Swinger. We are now down to the last bit, the charging and ignition systems. The previous owner "upgraded" a great many things, but got in over his head and lost interest. Now my son is learning a lot, and having fun doing it!

FACTS
1. CVF 1-Wire Alternator
2. 904 Transmission
3. New instrument panel with mechanical gauges (using a voltmeter instead of an ammeter)
4. 21-Circuit "Universal" wiring harness (appears to be a quality, but generic version of Autowire 21-circuit universal ... no documentation, just figured it out through internet searches)

QUESTIONS
A. Is our understanding of the charging and ignition system correct?
B. Which Option (Option A or Option B) would you recommend? (see two attachment diagrams)
C. Is there anything we are missing or should consider?

Thanks,
Sean

 

[Mike69cuda]

A couple of comments:

What’s the two gray boxes strapped together? Are they fuses?

The ignition purple wire does not go through the neutral switch. The outside terminals of neutral switch are for backup lights.

Don’t need the main car power going by way of the starter, but doesn’t hurt anything.

Don’t need The Alt power wire.

Your diagram is incomplete, so there is likely more.

There are many ways to wire things up, some are better than others, but most will work ok. Just make sure everything is protected by a fuse of some sort.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Post a photo of the back of the alternator.

Chrysler used 2 basic alternators and they are wired differently.

Also your alternator might be other than Chrysler

 

[delt127]

@ Mike69cuda,
1. Yes, the connected "boxes" are mega fuses (see updated diagrams)
2. Revised NSS connections (see updated diagrams)
3. Crossed out "Alt Power" from Altenator to Fuse Box (see updated diagrams)
The diagrams are simplified to my questions, so yes, they are "imcomplete". I guess it's important for you to know we changed the electronic ignition to an integrated HEI, which greatly simplified the wiring.

@ Dana67Dart,
Altenator is an aftermarket CVF GM SI 10/12 style one-wire altenator. Attached is a photo.

 

[67Dart273]

Backup lights are still wrong. One of outer pins of NS switch goes to key switched 12V power (accessory) and the other feeds the reverse lamps which are then grounded

 

[67Dart273]

You have not shown anything relating to ignition. What specific ignition are you running. Mopar ignition wiring is not difficult, but is done a bit differently from Ford/ GM

I would run over to MyMopar.com and download the 72 service manual if you have not done so. Even though your wiring will be much different, you can chase down how the original was done.

I believe many of these aftermarket harnesses have a fused ignition circuit? That was not so in the old days.

The Mopar key switch only has so many inputs and outputs, they are:

Main battery in, originally UNfused.

ACCESSORY, hot in ACC or "run" originally fed the "ACC" buss in the fuse panel

IGN1 or "ignition run." BEAR IN MIND that this is hot ONLY in run and GOES DEAD in "start" and of course with the key in "accessory."

IGN2 or bypass. Brown, this only went one place--through the bulkhead and to the coil + side of the ballast resistor. This contact is hot ONLY in start and provides the ONLY ignition system power for starting.

START. Normally yellow, hot only in start. Goes through the bulkhead connector and to the start relay.

IGN1 or "ignition run." I WOULD NOT dress this to length or button it up tight until you get things wired and the car will run. This is because There can be voltage drop in the key switch connector OR IN THE switch contacts themselves. You may want to add a relay later, the "run" contact can fire the relay, and the relay can supply the ignition loads.

 

[Mike69cuda]

Looks like you are making headway. Make sure your wire sizes are appropriate for the heavy current branches.

I like option A.