HELP Instrument Panel Lights?

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Send me your panel and parts . I'll fix it for you. Only cost would be the shipping both ways.
 
RedFish said:
Send me your panel and parts . I'll fix it for you. Only cost would be the shipping both ways.
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I've got a new head light switch on order but sure need the panel fixed. What's your interests, I'll send you something as I really appreciate this.
 
I'll PM my mailing address. While I have the panel , I can also talk you though checking circuits in the car.
 
I just finished wiring my 70 Dart, and have a drawing that might help when looking at the back of cluster connector. Also, you should be able to fix your cluster by soldering a small guage wire between the two damaged circuit ends. The suggestion from 68 Post was a good one. Howard ( If you layout id different, disregard my drawing)

Scan0012 (466 x 600).jpg
 
a68postcar said:
i'm gonna jump in here with something else to check. on the main pin out connector on the harness. make sure that the wires are in the correct location for the circuit board. i've noticed in several cases where, because the wires come out of the connector fairly easily, that they get put back in the wrong holes.just something else to check. the layout is in the haynes manual by the way.
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Good idea, they all checked out with the wiring diagram. The more I get into it I think my light switch is the culprit. As long as the black wire is supposed to be hot I'm sure its the switch. Too bad it took two circuit boards and a bald spot to figure it out. Sure hope I'm right this time.

Thanks all
 
This thread started as instrument lights and turned into pegged gauges also. The 2 circuits aren't related but do get close together at the instrument panel. There could be a short between the 2 circuits I guess.
I would pull the mechanical limiter out and leave it out for now.
Solve the lighting problem then go back to the gauge problem.
 
You guys are making this WAY to difficult.

WHY STAY ?? with the factory connectors? They are old and fragile and won't get better. You can get some Molex style connectors and just do the following:

(First, notice that you can simply SEE where the board traces go, just follow 'em)

So chop off the old wire connectors, put one Molex on each, and reverse them as to gender so you cannot install them wrong when the dash is out

Make up a pigtail of say, a foot on the mating connectors, then simply solder the other end to the appropriate foils on the board. You DO NOT need to solder them where the pins are---if they're damage, just scrape clean a little portion of the trace, solder "tin" the board and solder the wire right down to the board.
 
Having a similar issue with my '72 Plymouth Valiant... Picked it up tonigh, all the gauges work great but no illumination. Fuse appears fine.

Will see if I can pick up a new switch to start with.
 
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