Help me educate me please

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MACKIN

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Finally putting (hopefully) putting my car some what back together as money allows. Since I live in the lovely state of CT I eed to get a VIN check done on this car bought out of PA a year ago.


I have discussed this car here briefly ,72 Duster. Car is in primer custom body work is almost complete but I need to get VIN done Before completion.


Here is a couple teasers,will supply more for help. :bootysha: A lot of pain (money) went into this. Disregard the cracked dash pad I have a new one. :-D


Here's my dilemma,

I've decided to build a street strip car as oppose to a all out race build. So I'm going 4 speed. I need to know from you Gent's what (suggestions) would you go with for a Neutral balanced light weight Flywheel. No need to sling a horse power robbing steel flywheel! Also pressure plate clutch set up.

Please offer up your opinions!

I have a good leg under me and can row like nobody's business! So no wimpy set ups please!

Oh yea you might want to know engine specs.

340 Balanced Blueprinted 416 all Scat internals that Dyno'd a measly 500 HP and 500 FT LBS of torque. Car should weigh under 3000 LB's

Lets here it!

I have pictures from start to present for you picture lovers. :-D

trailer 028.jpg


trailer 029.jpg


trailer 032.jpg
 
I would like to add this will be the tire I'll be running.

Enjoy!

bike and car 013.jpg


bike and car 018.jpg
 
For a street car, you are going to want a heavier flywheel, especially with a small block.
Not that your car is going to have problems moving, mind you. It's just that a heavier flywheel definitely helps on the street.
I went with a Ram billet steel 28 lb flywheel behind my Dart's 340.
 
A CT VIN check is a piece a cake. All the DMV does is check the paperwork VIN to the car's actual VIN to make sure they match. Thats all it is. More of an inconvience than anything else.

As for the aluminum flywheel, my late friend Jerry Clark of Jerry's Vette Service in Florida used to build some really tough and nice old Vettes, and he always ran an aluminum flywheel on the street. I have driven his cars, many of them, when visiting, and to be honest, if I didn't know the flywheel was aluminum, I would never have known it wasn't steel.

Where in CT are you?

Best of Luck,

George
 
If the car makes only 500hp, and will be driven on the street (shifted FAR more than any drag car) an aluminum flywheel isn't the best choice.
My question is why would you decide 4-speed, if this car is going to the strip? A 4-speed isn't probably the best choice either. I race a 4-speed, but I have lots of NOS superstock gearsets and parts. My brother-in-law races a 1080 hp blown aluminum Hemi with a 4-speed, and he went to a Jericho straight off. Though he has countless years racing A833 Hemi boxes. It is an expensive route, particularly if you don't have alot of experience with 4-speeds.
 
IMO, the 8 3/4 is probably marginal in this car with a stick already, the heavy wheel is gonna exacerbate that.I haven't used the M/T DOT radials personally, I HAVE used the non-radial DOTS, they are a hard hooking tire. You put a 30lb wheel in this thing, buzz it to 7000, and drop the clutch on a good starting line. ring & pinion life expectancy will not be good.
 
A CT VIN check is a piece a cake. All the DMV does is check the paperwork VIN to the car's actual VIN to make sure they match. Thats all it is. More of an inconvience than anything else.

As for the aluminum flywheel, my late friend Jerry Clark of Jerry's Vette Service in Florida used to build some really tough and nice old Vettes, and he always ran an aluminum flywheel on the street. I have driven his cars, many of them, when visiting, and to be honest, if I didn't know the flywheel was aluminum, I would never have known it wasn't steel.

Where in CT are you?

Best of Luck,

George


Wolcott.

Gheesh you make it sound easy but talking to DMV about it makes me cringe. I'm concerned as to VIN tags. I have the title but the last place it was registered was I believe WV in 1987. It was bought never Registered and raced in PA. As a matter of fact the seller of the cars name isn't even on the title. So I had to go back to get a signed bill of sale from the car lot it was sold at back in 1987. Fortunately the guy was decent and did it.

According to DMV it is subject to spot full inspection,what ever that means. So I assume everything MUST be in 100% factory working order upon VIN check. Lights ,wipers,horn ,blinkers,etc etc etc. If you go composite then it will be subject to 100% inspection. That will suck

Why MIGHT I believe they might make me go composite and designate their own VIN is because they ONLY VIN tag left is the dash one as the stock front clip fender tag is MIA,never had. I do have the original doors WITH VIN tags but there is NO way to remove and put on the existing doors as far as I know. Although this car is 100%, with the DMV, I for see hassles. Could be a pain in the ***. My intentions are to trailer it there in streetable trim as possible but IF you get a hardass or someone having a bad day......... Oh boy

So who knows but if you have further information or advice please let me know.

Thanks
 
I also thought at 500 HP I'm marginal at best with a light flywheel but looking for advice as to the lightness of the car with a full tilting glass front clip. Car is mini tubed so there won't be much upholstery in the back area.

Leaving my thoughts that the car will be light weight.

Since the car is no longer caged racing won't be my main agenda but more of friendly test tune days ,grudges, safe areas with buddies,you know. I'm no kid.

Hey racing cost money sometimes LOTS of money! A luxury I don't have right at this moment beyond getting this car back together.

I decided to go 4 speed ,well it's just plain more fun for the street. I have a built reverse valvebody 727 also with a 8" 3500 stall TC. So down the road who knows. Is the car built beyond actual needs and more so set up and or more geared towards the track? That is no doubt but it sure should be a lot of fun. Hey the 01 Chevrolet I own in sig @ 500 RWHP is just gobs of fun on the street. Do you use it ? No but that 1% of the time you line up (safely) with a Mustang ,Fart Can ,Vette brake stand 10 LBS of boost leaving them in a cloud sure puts a smile on your face. I don't recommend this action but ..... So I've had plenty of fun with a built auto seeing it cost me as much for a built ATS Allison as it did to practically build my 340. :angry7:

I have a trailer so it wont be a long distance driver. It's a toy,period. Car shows, light cruising, conversation piece.

Currently there is a 456 spool in the 8 3/4 and yet to decide my direction yet.

So looks like shy away from a lightweight flywheel for street.
 
If you are not gonna run the car at the track, the 8 3/4 will probably be ok. I have run spools on the street, not crazy about it. Especially if the car is more street than strip. This car should be REAL light, maybe 2750-2800lbs with no heater, race buckets. Mine had a 440, no heater, race seats, glass hood & bumper, manual steering/brakes, loop with a side bar,steel wheels on the back, was just under 3100lbs. Dont know what the rules are in your area, but here, if you need a new vin, you have to do a safety inspection, they might require a heater/defogger, I dont know.
 
My concerns are the same with DMV,it's hit or miss. Thanks for the advice.


Alot of time and R&R went into the front clip with custom lower fenders. All steel with inner fender braces.Pinned hinges. Still needs to be finished,seam sealed etc.

car nose 002.jpg


bike and car 006.jpg
 
Oh, the nose is steel. I was thinking glass.


It's glass. The ONLY steel is the lower fenders where the quarter turns are and the lower panel (fender). This particular glass clip had these cheesy lower fender panels. Now I've seen full piece removal noses and full tilt noses and how they get lower fender to door clearance when they tilt is beyond me. Unless they have two people flip up the nose holding the fenders out?

Mine turn the fasteners and open it up with one hand!

So we fab'ed these up to replace the crappy pieces. Pictures don't do it justice. It was tough finding the inner braces that go from the top cowl down (this are the factory fender adjustment points) that weren't rotted to crap that the panel (steel) attaches to.
 
Wow!

500 HP is nothing to shake your head about!

What size tire is that in the rear?


Either is the 500 foot pounds of torque! :-D

It actually hit a higher HP 517 ish but the torque fell off so it was jetted accordingly.

P315/60R/15 M/T Mounted on Billet Specialty big offset wheels to take advantage of the tubs and Super Stock Spring relocation. I could have went a full 7" offset and wish I did. It would have tucked the wheel in about another half inch or better. It's not bad now . I believe they are 6.5 and I can get up to 7" . Been awhile

It was a pain in the *** figuring out the wheel and offset. There is more room to go back if I recall about another 2" . So I could have went bigger leaving some clearance BUT the cost off the wheels were ridiculous. Those particular wheels are right off the shelf at Jegs.

Yes bigger bolt patter and Moser Axles are in . In Addition since these are NOT lug centering wheels but hubs I had custom Billet inserts made so they are hub centering. I have same for the front. There light

Any of you guys have some green you want to give up. :toothy10:


The car was delivered last April thats when it began.


http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=283578&postcount=5
 
i wouldnt go with an aluminum flywheel for the street...The whole point of the flywheel is store inertia to get the car moving, which the steel will do better...from what i understand in most cases aluminum flywheels are dogs on the street, unless the car is super light...by the way, i really like your duster...I plan on running the same bs wheels only 7.5inch backspace and probably a 325/50/15 but a bias ply instead...Kudos to going 4 speed and racing! im going with a stick with my car and am so excited for the ride- i dont care how much i break stuff lol
 
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