HELP! Need electrical guru! systems fading!

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64dart170

64dart170

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Hi Guys,
I'm working on ABodyBettey's cursed car again! After 1 mile test ride and tow home last night, she posted thread about her car not starting. We did replace ballast resistor and started and ran fine this morning, again thanks guys!
However, last night when it blew the fuseable link 30 amp, I had turned on rt turn signal, saw the fender lamp and dash indicator go bright real quick and go out & blew fusable link and ballast resistor. Replaced fuse and ballast resistor this morning started and runs great!
I turn on headlights and get out and notice pass tailight out. Get in and hit breaks, no break lights, while I'm sitting there the dome light goes out, will not come back on with switch adjust on dash. Then my sun gages go out, then my dash lidhts go out then headlights out! I turn on what I think is only thing, left turn signal, fender light extremly bright and dash indicator bright and solid. Turned everything off and shut it down before I loose everything!
Please, someone tell me for the love of GOD what the heck is happening to this D#%^*(^n cursed car "Bride of Frankenstein" strikes again!
Somebody please help, we need this daily driver!!!!!!!!!!:angry4:
 
Ok, went out and started with dome light it was burned out, started checking taillights, pass side fender indicator, front turn signals, all burned out. Pass side turn signal front, rear taillight, and fender bulb were so burned that the glass broke on all. So, that now is all lamps burned out, and went to check on fusable link it must have been hot. couldn't open and when I did the fuse fell apart ant the metal ends are melted in link!
I fricken give up man, I mean I think I have really just about come down to a complete mental breakdown!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Somebody please help me, shoot me, or steal her car from us!
 
sounds like you need to go and check all the main power and grounds. my guess would be either you burned some insulation off one of the hot leads like one going to the bulkhead or alt. charge wire or the ground is not good and is building up a lot of resistance. I would just start at the batt. cables and go through each of the main wires one at a time and look for loose connections, burned insulation, etc. not much wiring to them so it shouldn't take too long. if nothing shows up... time to pull out the multi-meter and start checking on the ohm scale for the bad lead. if one fuse in particular or if they are all say constant hots then at least you have it narrowed down to that curcuit.
 
Thanks Camd64, talked with a friend of mine this am and he sudgested alt charging too much field, "full field" thought I should start by taking it down to advance or somewhere to check it out first?......
Also now noticed Alt meter frozen in center not working!
But I really think I'm beat this time. Shopping list:
Poss Alternator
voltage regulator firewall & back of instrument panel too?
New fusable link
New leds lights for dash & sun gadges
Another ballast resistor
Every friken light on the car
probibly 2 headlights too!
Stick a fork in me I'm done!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I think she needs to find a real mechanic this time. I'm pretty much under the conclusion of complete failier, lost job, truck, camper, 100+resumes out & not 1 call back, worked on this car of hers for the past 6 months 6 - 7 days a week 1 thing after another, and honestly I don't think I can handle anymore!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
camd64 said:
sounds like you need to go and check all the main power and grounds. my guess would be either you burned some insulation off one of the hot leads like one going to the bulkhead or alt. charge wire or the ground is not good and is building up a lot of resistance. I would just start at the batt. cables and go through each of the main wires one at a time and look for loose connections, burned insulation, etc. not much wiring to them so it shouldn't take too long. if nothing shows up... time to pull out the multi-meter and start checking on the ohm scale for the bad lead. if one fuse in particular or if they are all say constant hots then at least you have it narrowed down to that curcuit.
Click to expand...
Checked fusable melted leed to bulk head. Goes to bottm left pin "Z" on bulkhead connecter block. Had repaired this pin 1 time before. It looks to have gotten hot as well. Been under dash and do not see that wire getting hot on indside of fire wall. (bottom right pin on connecter block) thick red wire comming in ok.
 
camd64 said:
sounds like you need to go and check all the main power and grounds. my guess would be either you burned some insulation off one of the hot leads like one going to the bulkhead or alt. charge wire or the ground is not good and is building up a lot of resistance. I would just start at the batt. cables and go through each of the main wires one at a time and look for loose connections, burned insulation, etc. not much wiring to them so it shouldn't take too long. if nothing shows up... time to pull out the multi-meter and start checking on the ohm scale for the bad lead. if one fuse in particular or if they are all say constant hots then at least you have it narrowed down to that curcuit.
Click to expand...
Hey camd64, Someone has converted my system to a 2 wire field alt. One of those wires was rubbing the alt case and it looks like it was arching through and grounding to alternator housing. Would this have canceled out the ground conection at regulator causing it to be removed from operating in system then, letting system overcharge to burn all bulbs and fusable link?
Am I starting to get it??? All seems interconected in schematics.
Anyone else any ideas?
Right now leaving for advance to test alt. Then off to friends junk yard for harness and connector blocks!
Someone also converted to flat styl solid state regulator insted of the tall one with the switch inside. What do I ask for at the parts store for the solid state regulator?
 
That frozen alt meter doesn't sound good. I would by-pass it.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

Already mentioned check every thing possible. I totally did away with the bulk head connector... straight wire through there so there is no connectors to give me any trouble. I rewired the entire car however with a EZ-wiring kit.

http://www.ezwiring.com/wiring_harness.html

Part number ez 21

Maybe its time to do the same to the your car. With it blowing the bulbs the fuse panel is not doing its job. It should blow the fuses first... that's why they are there. This problem sounds like it could cause a fire so be careful... unhook the battery when not in use until you find the problem. good luck.
 
mullinax95 said:
That frozen alt meter doesn't sound good. I would by-pass it.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

Already mentioned check every thing possible. I totally did away with the bulk head connector... straight wire through there so there is no connectors to give me any trouble. I rewired the entire car however with a EZ-wiring kit.

http://www.ezwiring.com/wiring_harness.html

Part number ez 21

Maybe its time to do the same to the your car. With it blowing the bulbs the fuse panel is not doing its job. It should blow the fuses first... that's why they are there. This problem sounds like it could cause a fire so be careful... unhook the battery when not in use until you find the problem. good luck.
Click to expand...
Hey thanks mullinax95! I was wondering if I should do away with blocks! I kind of thought the only reason for them was at factory for convience or different option harneses in engine bay>
Kind of funny too that you mention a fire!LOL I had mentioned the hopes of such in a posting last night !LOL!!! Wow I needed that chuckle!!
We are kind of low budget at the present Thanks for the links they will be used in the near future. In the meantime we have acess to resonable used parts on junk car for new harness etc. Will see what mysteries unfold for me today!
Thanks again for the response and you knowledge! We can use all the help we can get!!!:cheers:
 
Power surge. I drove mine to Branson and noticed the next morning the amp meter was sitting on +30. I thought it was cause I just cranked it up but within a mile it quit. It took out my Pertronix billet dist., the brain box, the main amp, fuseable link, ballast resistor and numerous bulbs. Turned out to be the voltage regulator. I learned the amp meter should pretty much always be on 0 if working properly. The load on one side should always be balanced by the charging on the other side, thus 0. If the meter is flickering you got a bad diode, replace the alt. Always make sure the regulator is matched to the alt.
 
I never understood the beginning of this . Radiater R&R included removing the altenater and horn harness ? Anyway did you start with removing the negative bettery cable or did sparks fly at the altenater ? Are the wires to the altenater properly reinstalled ?
With all the bulbs blown we know the voltage regulater is bad or a field wire is shorted to ground and causing full field.
Take the negitive battery cable off now if it isn't already. Repair the fusible link etc.., may as well buy 2 or 3 of those just incase we have serious melting under dash, amp gauge issues, whatever. Once the car is back together and test light shows no draw between neg. cable and post hook up the cable and test with battery alone. Dont start the engine yet. If all the electrical seems ok with switch on, remove neg battery cable again, disconnect alt. wires and isolate them. Put the battery cable back and start it up. If it runs and all is good on battery alone you can start diagnosing the charging system.
 
RedFish said:
I never understood the beginning of this . Radiater R&R included removing the altenater and horn harness ? Anyway did you start with removing the negative bettery cable or did sparks fly at the altenater ? Are the wires to the altenater properly reinstalled ?
With all the bulbs blown we know the voltage regulater is bad or a field wire is shorted to ground and causing full field.
Take the negitive battery cable off now if it isn't already. Repair the fusible link etc.., may as well buy 2 or 3 of those just incase we have serious melting under dash, amp gauge issues, whatever. Once the car is back together and test light shows no draw between neg. cable and post hook up the cable and test with battery alone. Dont start the engine yet. If all the electrical seems ok with switch on, remove neg battery cable again, disconnect alt. wires and isolate them. Put the battery cable back and start it up. If it runs and all is good on battery alone you can start diagnosing the charging system.
Click to expand...
MVRCorp, Thanks for the response, The system is now set up with Alt with 2 field wires and 1969 style flat solid state voltage regulator.
Just had the Alt tested and is bad.
Redfish, Thank you also. I don't know where to begin so here is brief:
Started with running problems, trouble shot to carb and replaced with EB1604, was at the same time replacing waterpump due to noise in bearing, had everything off and pulled back so we painted block and manifold.
Put everything back together started and ran great, but noticed bad leak in bottom of radiator, must have dinged somehow working on pump?
2 times to Radiator shop in & out due to bad solder on new core. Back in with the rad.
(Sometime during all that the batt was hooked up with out the Alt beeing wired up. Disconected batt.)
Rad in ready for test, no start.
Found blown fuse link, and replaced, started & ran fine.
Went on test drive turned onto highway with turn signal flashed real bright and car died. Wouldn't crank. Replaced link. Crank wouldn't start. Tow Home $50.00.
Thismorning replaced ballist resistor with spare, started running great again, checking radiator for leaks, while running before sunrise had lights on topping rad. Bulbs started going out all over, 1st tail, dome, headlights, sun gages, dashlights, SHUT OFF!!
I did notice 1 field wire looked like rubbing & arching onto alternator housing!
Current Status is: I have purchased replacement Alt. Will be picking up flat solid state regulator this afternoon and am on my way for new harness.
I have to tell you The instructions you gave me are great. When I get back will look them over again, I'm sure it sounded harder thayt what it is, I'm just totally overwhelmed with this car! It's a constant waterfall effect for 6 months! LOL!!! Any further thoughts on this subject would be greatly appreciated!
 
Hang in there 64dart170, I can not offer any technical advise outside of what has been listed already but I will give a spiritual calling to the mopar gods for you folks[-o<. Just remember if they were easy everybody would have one and our's wouldn't be as special.:-D

I like your engine bay pics, new paint on the "Bride" look's good. Your garage is another story.#-o

Good luck and step back and take a deep breath when ever you want to give your tool's flying lessons and kick the crap out of your car(been there). homecloned

One more thing, get a fire extinguisher and have it handy in the vehicle untill 100% sure it all works(been there also). peace
 
for sure get the wiring fixed to the alt. and double check your grounds since you did some painting. it was probably the field wire grounding to the case that had a cascade effect on your electrical. get rid of the ammeter setup at the bulkhead so you don't have anymore issues there.
 
homecloned said:
Hang in there 64dart170, I can not offer any technical advise outside of what has been listed already but I will give a spiritual calling to the mopar gods for you folks[-o<. Just remember if they were easy everybody would have one and our's wouldn't be as special.:-D

I like your engine bay pics, new paint on the "Bride" look's good. Your garage is another story.#-o

Good luck and step back and take a deep breath when ever you want to give your tool's flying lessons and kick the crap out of your car(been there). homecloned

One more thing, get a fire extinguisher and have it handy in the vehicle untill 100% sure it all works(been there also). peace
Click to expand...
Hey homecloned, thanks for the shout out. I am usually the one who is handing out positive pep talks, I guess it was my turn to receive!
I have said that "if it were easy" line before several times on the "BOF" car. It's just that who ever had it before has used so many different electrical from different years I don't know what the heck is going on and it's almost impossible to buy parts for.
The 67 is really a bastard year, so many non interchangable parts.
Don't worry flying tools yes, big dent now on the end of my propane heater, potable air tank bent from flying wrench and by the way I kicked the drivers door out on the highway waiting on the tow truck! LOL
As far as the fire extinguisher, NOT why the hell would I want to save this monster? I should have left it running this morning while it was in over charge full field mode. I think it would have went up and took the garage with it! (just like I've been hoping) LOL
Thanks for admiration of engine bay, I swear the garage was the cleanest most organized it's been in years before this last tsunami hit. I started on this last month the day we got back on vacation. Noticed the water pump noise 2 days before we left. I have been working on it 7 days a week for 5 weeks now!
Thanks for the pep talk!
 
camd64 said:
for sure get the wiring fixed to the alt. and double check your grounds since you did some painting. it was probably the field wire grounding to the case that had a cascade effect on your electrical. get rid of the ammeter setup at the bulkhead so you don't have anymore issues there.
Click to expand...
Thanks again camd64, During my junk yard sweep to day we have thought and confirmed that 67 was the only year they took the fusable link wire to the am meter through the firewall on the left plug, bottom left pin "Z" next to "S" pin. The other years we looked at the fuse link went into the middle plug on the fire wall. Bad news 67 only. Good news, the used the same thing in even the bigger cars for that year only. Going back tomarrow to look at a satilite!
My block isn't bad but had previous repairs done. I could probibly fix wire at alt, replace alt, replace volt reg & fuse link, and bulbs and would probibly work. Aw I guess I'll wait till junk yard again tomarrow!
Thanks again for the response, Any info is more than I had before I got here!!!
 
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