Help needed setting up 8 3/4 with green bearings

[res1vw21]

Ok guys and galls I finally have all the parts for the 8 3/4. I am curious thought with the green bearings what do I need to do differently then how the shop manual describes? I have a rebuilt 3.55 sg 742 with the little buttons in it and a set of moser axles with the green bearings.
Thanks -Ross-

 

[res1vw21]

anyone?
I think I have to take the buttons out? then bolt it together like normal?

 

[scoot439]

I just put the axles in mine with out taking out the block in the middle of the diff with no problems.

 

[cuda67]

I have Moser axles in mine. I had a choice of removing the blocks or grinding off an 1/8 inch off one of the axles. I did mine a few years back and I can't remember which side I ground down. I want to say the Pass. side . When you install the axles one will fit all the way in and no problem the second one will stick out to far to bolt in. I ground it down after I talked to Moser. That was their suggestion as I had just rebuilt the pumpkin and I didn' want to break it down again. If your rear is open remove the thrust locks, same results. Mine was a 489 case. Don't know if there is a difference.

 

[chignikred]

In keeping this a Pac NW discussion, I chime in. First off I am completely against these green bearings for street use. They will wear out quickly as they offer no side load thrust capacity, not being a tapered roller bearing. As for the 'buttons' do you mean the thrust spacers in center section? A h yes they are important for axle end play. You dont want those axles shifting side to side, wearing out the bearing all the faster!!
This is all a problem, for equipment changes, when the whole package isnt understood, how all things work together. The 'hot' idea of a green bearing and some special axles are not thought of as a complete unit. Factory ideas were well engineered, always ask yourself, what were they doing to create a durable product that worked and performed.
red

 

[demon seed]

If your diff is a clutch type you should have 2 thrust buttons located on each side of a square steel block. Remove the buttons (keep them they're worth $ at swap meets) when going to green bearings cuss it's just one less thing to worry about during assembly of the axles. The green bearing is locked to the shaft by an inner interference fit ring (which sometimes get spot welded to the shaft) the outer bearing race is locked into the axle tube with a bolted plate. The axles are not going anywhere. The bearing itself is a ball bearing that can withstand axial as well as radial loads and is the same design as the hub bearings that supports and CV joint on front wheel drive cars and they survive both load directions. I just changed the hub bearings on the front of my grand prix and they had 160,000KM on them so they work pretty good. I've been running the greens for a couple years and since I don't road race the Demon I ain't worried.

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/13.html

Terry

 

[res1vw21]

thanks guys you all bring up good points. I am going to run the greens for now because they are new and they were free. The car won't be auto crossed and I am going to monitor them.
That being said in my Aspen which will see a lot more abuse I am going to run a set of roller tapered timikans.

 

[grassy]

If you 8 3/4 is not a sure grip..do you need to take anything out ?

Ian.