help on performance decision

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Cope is likely going to get a converter through what is known around here as Pretty Trashy Crap.

I've had better luck with a hughes off the shelf verter than some of the other stuff. Brians car went 1.42 60's with my shelf 10" 3500 hughes conveter, that's pretty decent for a footbrake car
 
crackedback said:
Cope is likely going to get a converter through what is known around here as Pretty Trashy Crap.

I've had better luck with a hughes off the shelf verter than some of the other stuff. Brians car went 1.42 60's with my shelf 10" 3500 hughes conveter, that's pretty decent for a footbrake car
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You will probably get a PM also.........
 
duster731 said:
Hughes does have a 3000 stall off the shelf for 904 its about 399$
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If you can swing it get one built for your car, not an off the shelf verter. Off the shelf verters are generally no where nearly as accurate on what they stall because they just figure averages and built it for that. A custom converter will generally stall right what you ordered. I run one of them Pretty Trashy Converters from Cope and it seems to work great for me. The stall speed is real close (+100) to what I ordered and even though it stalls a little over 3000 when I nail it, it drives great when I slow cruise.
 
I would go with the pistons its easier to swap a converter later then yank the motor and pull it all apart, re balance etc.

For a street converter I like the T/A 10 and 11"
 
duster731 said:
Hughes does have a 3000 stall off the shelf for 904 its about 399$
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I mean it when I say that the converter is NOT a place to pinch pennies, it can make or break a great motor, My old Coan was around $600, my new Turbo Action for the new beastly 904 is about $1000. I'm a young gun too at 21 but I'd rather save and buy one really good one then throw away the same amount on a few crappy ones that never let the car run to it's potential. just my .02 man
 
And you are exactly right. Buy one for 400 don't like it buy another for whatever. May as well do it right the first time.

An off the shelf converter may or may not work. Best to have one built specifically for your application and intended usage.
 
I'll chime in now...

I run a 73 vintage 318 (rebuilt .030 over and has 30K miles since)in my Duster. Currently, it has stock heads, with a 7 angle valve job, Performer intake, Edelbrock 1405 600 cfm carb, Hooker headers, Comp XE268 cam (same cam), MP quick advance distributor. Pistons are 8.5:1 Speed Pro cast units.

I am running a 904 with TF-2 kit and a custom built 2800 stall converter.

With 18 degrees of initial timing and 36 total, it runs 14.0-14.5 in the quarter consitantly, using 3.23 gears and 235/70/15 (28" tall) rear tires. With more gear, I am sure I can knock a half second off. It will light the tires at will from a stand still, but cruises around town well and turns about 3000 rpm at 72 mph.

That being said, with the 302 heads, your compression is going to be higher. I would aim towards a custom built converter in the 2,800-3,200 range and leave it be. If you were to change manifolds to anything else, I would search for an LD4B or LD 340. The LD4B will have 318 sized ports and is a very good piece.

-Justin
 
wigsplitter74 said:
I mean it when I say that the converter is NOT a place to pinch pennies, it can make or break a great motor, My old Coan was around $600, my new Turbo Action for the new beastly 904 is about $1000. I'm a young gun too at 21 but I'd rather save and buy one really good one then throw away the same amount on a few crappy ones that never let the car run to it's potential. just my .02 man
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Yes... exactly

Guys will spend thousands to make more HP and cripple it with a bad converter. Ask them to spend 500-1000 on a converter and you'd think you shot their mother/GF/Wife.

Converter tech has come a long way since the 70-80's. You can get a converter that runs pretty tight at cruise but flashes like crazy when nailed. They cost more and are usually not shelf items.

Short of n2o, it's usually the single biggest, reasonably priced, performance gain you can make.

Pick your parts, pay your money!
 
fishy68 said:
If you can swing it get one built for your car, not an off the shelf verter. Off the shelf verters are generally no where nearly as accurate on what they stall because they just figure averages and built it for that. A custom converter will generally stall right what you ordered. I run one of them Pretty Trashy Converters from Cope and it seems to work great for me. The stall speed is real close (+100) to what I ordered and even though it stalls a little over 3000 when I nail it, it drives great when I slow cruise.
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When I first heard about cope I called them and he said he can build me a street performance stall to my build and it would be about 320$ shipped... Sounds pretty good
 
MOPARJ said:
I'll chime in now...

I run a 73 vintage 318 (rebuilt .030 over and has 30K miles since)in my Duster. Currently, it has stock heads, with a 7 angle valve job, Performer intake, Edelbrock 1405 600 cfm carb, Hooker headers, Comp XE268 cam (same cam), MP quick advance distributor. Pistons are 8.5:1 Speed Pro cast units.

I am running a 904 with TF-2 kit and a custom built 2800 stall converter.

With 18 degrees of initial timing and 36 total, it runs 14.0-14.5 in the quarter consitantly, using 3.23 gears and 235/70/15 (28" tall) rear tires. With more gear, I am sure I can knock a half second off. It will light the tires at will from a stand still, but cruises around town well and turns about 3000 rpm at 72 mph.

That being said, with the 302 heads, your compression is going to be higher. I would aim towards a custom built converter in the 2,800-3,200 range and leave it be. If you were to change manifolds to anything else, I would search for an LD4B or LD 340. The LD4B will have 318 sized ports and is a very good piece.

-Justin
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Man I hope I get in the 13.99 I would be very happy to hit 12.99 lol since I'm running 3.91 255/60/15 and the 302 heads ported and gasket matched to a rpm air gap and a 650 dp

Plus I'm putting the 188-160 valves in the heads so I would get a better flow
 
For tge others I didn't quote on I know penny pinching on a stall is bad but if there's good recommendation on copes stalls I would rather get that then a off the shelf one
 
duster731 said:
Man I hope I get in the 13.99 I would be very happy to hit 12.99 lol since I'm running 3.91 255/60/15 and the 302 heads ported and gasket matched to a rpm air gap and a 650 dp

Plus I'm putting the 188-160 valves in the heads so I would get a better flow
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You will be in the high 13s potentially as is and a converter will only help. Remember though, when it comes to quick ETs at the track, you have to look at the total package (i.e the rest of the drivetrain, rear tires, springs, shocks, ect).

With more compression, low 13s are in sight (with a converter), but I would question your fuel options and reasonability driving it on the street, like others have mentioned.

Bottom line: converter, converter, converter...and a quality one. Make sure your rear setup is on par as well.
 
Badsport said:
And you are exactly right. Buy one for 400 don't like it buy another for whatever. May as well do it right the first time.

An off the shelf converter may or may not work. Best to have one built specifically for your application and intended usage.
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Run a 4 speed. lol
 
duster731 said:
Man I hope I get in the 13.99 I would be very happy to hit 12.99 lol since I'm running 3.91 255/60/15 and the 302 heads ported and gasket matched to a rpm air gap and a 650 dp

Plus I'm putting the 188-160 valves in the heads so I would get a better flow
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Then why go with the small port 302 heads ?

Put larger port 360 heads with 2.02 intake valves and get high compression pistons for the 318. If you want flat 13, its going to have to rev high and needs lots of air flow. Your just holding it back with tiny port 302 heads.

I ran my .030 318 with 2.02 360 heads, just milled the heads .030 and was using stock comp cast pistons, engine made more power everywhere, even at low rpm, over the 318 heads.

Even when the 302 heads were new from the factory, mopar slap the 360 heads on the HP 318 heads for the police, so what does that tell you, lol
 
dodge freak said:
Then why go with the small port 302 heads ?

Put larger port 360 heads with 2.02 intake valves and get high compression pistons for the 318. If you want flat 13, its going to have to rev high and needs lots of air flow. Your just holding it back with tiny port 302 heads.

I ran my .030 318 with 2.02 360 heads, just milled the heads .030 and was using stock comp cast pistons, engine made more power everywhere, even at low rpm, over the 318 heads.

Even when the 302 heads were new from the factory, mopar slap the 360 heads on the HP 318 heads for the police, so what does that tell you, lol
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360 heads lower the cr a lot you would need to mill them to bump it back up and that I don't want to do plus I already have the 302 heads and there Arnt gonna be the small port heads after gasket matching them to the air gap intake
 
cope does not build converters....he takes your info/specs ...the orders them from PTC......
 
If you do a good job on the intake ports, those 302 heads can go 220-230's with a 1.88 valve. Will take some work and a good valve job.
 
crackedback said:
If you do a good job on the intake ports, those 302 heads can go 220-230's with a 1.88 valve. Will take some work and a good valve job.
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I'm hoping to have extra money to take the heads to Justin (wildncrazy) so that way I know what they flow and know there done right lol
 
See about a 9.5" one that is like I mentioned. Tight when under cruise conditions but flashes hard when you stomp on it.

Ask DJV about the converter in his car.
 
duster731 said:
Oo well if there is good recomendations for the ptc stalls then ill get it
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That's why I suggested talking to Kenny at PTC. You need to have ALL of your information handy when you call, as in engine specs, estimated horsepower, cam specs, weight of car (should be around 3200), drivetrain and your intended usage (what you expect out of the car) street, street/strip etc.

I have heard both good and bad about PTC just as I have heard the same thing about every other converter maker out there.

It is impossible to please everybody 100% of the time. That is why if you want it right you have to provide accurate information, some people don't and end up with something that doesn't work or they change the plan half way through the game.

Also you know as well as I do nothing is perfect 100% of the time. When I spoke with them they recommended a 3200 stall for mine, I'll bet that will be close for you too.

As I said earlier if you go the converter route make sure to run a temp gauge and a trans cooler. I might even suggest calling 2 or 3 suppliers/builders of converters and see if you get the same or close general consensus.
 
Kool thanks badsport it seems like you and I are on the same page with are projects I.e engine and rear end swaps lol
 
crackedback said:
See about a 9.5" one that is like I mentioned. Tight when under cruise conditions but flashes hard when you stomp on it.

Ask DJV about the converter in his car.
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A 9.5 ok like mentioned I'm going to ask a couple converter companies and see what they recommend so it helps me know what I should end up with thanks
 
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