Help on rear shocks

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Smittysduster

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I'm new at restoring a car so I apologize in advance for a vast lack of knowledge... But I'm learning!

I have a 72 Plymouth duster and it sits really low in the front. I took to a molar shop and they said I need to tighten my torsion bars and add rear air shocks. Now he said that would be about 500 dollars in total for the job but I feel like I could put new shocks on myself. He said I needed air shocks but when I looked them up it said they are used mostly for camper and RV applications. Do I really need air shocks? And if so could you guys recommend a good brand to use? Thanks for the help
 
500 Bucks to adjust your torsion bars and install shocks?!?!?

Run, Forest, Run!!!

The torsion bar adjustment you can do yourself.

As far as the rear, no air shocks, it sounds to me like you need to replace your leaf springs.

You can do that yourself as well. A couple hundred bucks for springs and good to go.
 
500 Bucks to adjust your torsion bars and install shocks?!?!?

Run, Forest, Run!!!

The torsion bar adjustment you can do yourself.

As far as the rear, no air shocks, it sounds to me like you need to replace your leaf springs.

You can do that yourself as well. A couple hundred bucks for springs and good to go.

Haha is it really that easy??? I didn't think 500 sounded to unreasonable! Shows what I know. The only thing is that my torsion bars are kind of rusted out and I'm afraid they might snap... Guy said he may have to reinforce them. I just don't want to be under there when they snap
 
We all have to go through the learning curve. You'll quickly discover that the guys in the group will never dog you for not knowing things. We're here to help.

Badsport nailed it. Run fast, run hard and never go there again. The only reason you would have to adjust your torsion bars is that someone monkeyed around with them in he past. But because they told you that you need air shocks I put 0 creedence into anything else they say. Chryslers were extremely well engineered vehicles and aftermarket tricks like air shocks are not necessary. They will typically cause more damage than any perceived benefit.

Air shocks will transfer the weight of your off your springs and onto the shock mount cross-member. A stiff area, but not stiff enough handle the weight that leaf springs were designed to carry. My Road Runner's cross member and trunk pan were destroyed for that exact reason and of course I get to pay to fix someone else's error.
 
We all have to go through the learning curve. You'll quickly discover that the guys in the group will never dog you for not knowing things. We're here to help.

Badsport nailed it. Run fast, run hard and never go there again. The only reason you would have to adjust your torsion bars is that someone monkeyed around with them in he past. But because they told you that you need air shocks I put 0 creedence into anything else they say. Chryslers were extremely well engineered vehicles and aftermarket tricks like air shocks are not necessary. They will typically cause more damage than any perceived benefit.

Air shocks will transfer the weight of your off your springs and onto the shock mount cross-member. A stiff area, but not stiff enough handle the weight that leaf springs were designed to carry. My Road Runner's cross member and trunk pan were destroyed for that exact reason and of course I get to pay to fix someone else's error.

I appreciate the understanding. So could you recommend some shocks/leaf springs to get?
 
P.S Surface rust on the torsion bars shouldn't be a problem, flaky rust and I would scrap them. Look for scratches too. A lot of people over the years have removed them without the proper tool, i.e. clamp the vise grips on them and bang away with a hammer. Scratches are a torsion bars worst enemy.
 
P.S Surface rust on the torsion bars shouldn't be a problem, flaky rust and I would scrap them. Look for scratches too. A lot of people over the years have removed them without the proper tool, i.e. clamp the vise grips on them and bang away with a hammer. Scratches are a torsion bars worst enemy.

I'm nervous because I'm not the best judge at what is frame rust and what is just surface rust... Heard these things are pretty nasty if they snap
 
I'm nervous because I'm not the best judge at what is frame rust and what is just surface rust... Heard these things are pretty nasty if they snap

Post a couple of pics if you can. The torsion bar adjustment is in the lower control arm anyway. It's doubtful they need messed with, unless they are slap wore out, broke etc.

Go here:

http://www.springsnthings.com/

Call Laura and talk to her about springs. She is very helpful, you can also email her and she is good about getting back to you.

I would change the springs long before I would put air shocks on. Air shocks are a band aid fix in my opinion. A set of HD springs should fix you up just fine.

As far as shocks, just pick up a quality set of shocks and put them on when you do the springs. You "might" have to buy new U bolts too, sometimes they don't come apart so nice.

Changing the springs is a fairly easy task, if you get to that point and need help, just jump in here and ask away. A jack, a couple of jack stands and a few hand tools should get you there.


When I bought my Dart Sport it had air shocks on it, they immediately came off and went squarely in the circular file.
 
Probably not the best method, but the first time I ever messed with them (also didn't know squat at the time) I saturated a rag with P'Blaster and took off as much loose rust as I could. I then used strips of 400 grit sand paper on them using strokes like you would polishing your shoes. Kept my hands off the bars and let the paper do the work. That got them to the point where i could inspect for scratches. They can be scary but it's not quite as bad we tend to build up in our minds in virgin territory. Good luck.
 
Bad Sport is right on.


No air shocks, replace the springs. I prefer the Mopar Performance super stock springs myself over the heavy duty ones, but that's personal taste. But do replace the rear leaf springs.


For the front end being low, just crank up the torsion bar adjusting bolts. If you are afraid that they will break, I would suggest replacing them with either 1.00" bars from Just Suspension or 1.030" bars from PST.


Air shocks are band-aids. Use new leaf springs with normal shocks.


I like the monroe matic gas shocks.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mon-31131/overview/year/1968/make/plymouth/model/barracuda
 
Springs & Things is great - I just bought new springs for my Dart there a couple months back. Great service, great pricing, and quick shipping. I would also suggest buying new U-Bolts and nuts which hold the shock plate to the axle. Even if they are clean and look reusable, they take a lot of pressure over the years and are inexpensive to replace.

I did springs, U-bolts, and rear shocks out of pocket for less than $350 and I did it all myself and it was my virgin go at it. (Granted, I had to install the springs twice, and the shock plates twice.....but that is all part of the learning curve and the fun).

The folks on here are an endless supply of experience and knowledge and can walk you through any job on an A body.
 
Dive in and make it right. A set of air shocks will probably cost about half the amount of a set of springs. And if you don't have a manual you can download here http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=244981

Read thru for springs replacement and torsion bar adjustment. If you need ask questions here. Maybe there are members that are local for you that could offer a hand. Good luck. Stick with it. You can save a bunch of money learning yourself.
 
Please post up some pics for us.
Interesting that the shop wanted to adjust the front up with your torsion bars and then add air shocks which would pick the back end way up - and driving the front end back down...
C
 
Please post up some pics for us.
Interesting that the shop wanted to adjust the front up with your torsion bars and then add air shocks which would pick the back end way up - and driving the front end back down...
C

And charge him 500 bones to do it.
 
Hey at least you asked before spending money, good man! Hang out on the site and read up, it will help you a bunch.
 
Krazykuda is right. The monroes are good oem replacements. I like a stiffer ride so the KYBs are good balance between performance and comfort for me.

For Springs, you can't go wrong with the mopar performance offerings. You just need to decide if you want stiff performance or soft cruising comfort.
 
I appreciate all the input guys! I would thank you all individually but I'm not sure how to haha. I'm going to call springs n things and get rear leaf spring and shocks and hopefully order them and get them installed! As for the torsion bars I'm going to inspect them and try to crank them up a bit. Thanks again!
 
I'm curious as to the stance of your car, you say it sets low in the front. Post a side shot pic if you can.
 
There is NO WAY of welding torsion bars to reinforce them.
He must have been concerened with the crossmember metal where the sockets are.

Kinda surprised no one caught that. :)
 
There is NO WAY of welding torsion bars to reinforce them.
He must have been concerened with the crossmember metal where the sockets are.

Kinda surprised no one caught that. :)

I did, but after the OP, I wasn't too confident the guy (shop) knew what he was talking about.
 
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