Help! Rebuilding by 66 dart but im putting in a slant 6 225 bored out to a 227

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reeferlongbottom

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so I have a 1966 Dodge dart and the engine Im putting in it is a 1965 slant 6 225 bored out to a 227 and I’m missing a few of the parts. It was my dad‘s car and he unexpectedly passed away halfway through rebuilding it so I’m lucky I found the parts I was able to, but I’m missing my distributor and my push rods and my oil pan bolts as well as my headlight bezzels but right now I really need help figuring out what size bolt I need for my oil pan and i want to upgrade my distributor to an electronic one so if anyone knows the bolt size and has any recommendations for the distributor upgrade, please let me know!
 
so I have a 1966 Dodge dart and the engine Im putting in it is a 1965 slant 6 225 bored out to a 227 and I’m missing a few of the parts. It was my dad‘s car and he unexpectedly passed away halfway through rebuilding it so I’m lucky I found the parts I was able to, but I’m missing my distributor and my push rods and my oil pan bolts as well as my headlight bezzels but right now I really need help figuring out what size bolt I need for my oil pan and i want to upgrade my distributor to an electronic one so if anyone knows the bolt size and has any recommendations for the distributor upgrade, please let me know!
Im sorry for your loss. I have a complete running engine out here in PHX you're welcome to if you want to come out and grab it. Let me know.

Jake
 
so I have a 1966 Dodge dart and the engine Im putting in it is a 1965 slant 6 225 bored out to a 227 and I’m missing a few of the parts. It was my dad‘s car and he unexpectedly passed away halfway through rebuilding it so I’m lucky I found the parts I was able to, but I’m missing my distributor and my push rods and my oil pan bolts as well as my headlight bezzels but right now I really need help figuring out what size bolt I need for my oil pan and i want to upgrade my distributor to an electronic one so if anyone knows the bolt size and has any recommendations for the distributor upgrade, please let me know!
Get a cheap tap and die kit to test bolt spec. They sell /6 upgrade kits or look on CL as there are a few /6 for sale and might have their dizzy
 
so I have a 1966 Dodge dart and the engine Im putting in it is a 1965 slant 6 225 bored out to a 227 and I’m missing a few of the parts. It was my dad‘s car and he unexpectedly passed away halfway through rebuilding it so I’m lucky I found the parts I was able to, but I’m missing my distributor and my push rods and my oil pan bolts as well as my headlight bezzels but right now I really need help figuring out what size bolt I need for my oil pan and i want to upgrade my distributor to an electronic one so if anyone knows the bolt size and has any recommendations for the distributor upgrade, please let me know!

The oil pan screws, or bolts, for the Slant Six engine, Chrysler part number 1947943, are 5/16"-18, 13/16" long with a 1/2" hex head and a captive washer, ~9/16" in diameter. Twenty two bolts are required.

I perform point ignition to 1973 - 1987 type Chrysler electronic ignition upgrades using older NOS parts and/or good used parts from a donor vehicle. 1973 - 1979 wiring and actual 5-pin ECUs use the dual ballast resistor which can be used as is or further adapted to the single ballast resistor style. An old USA made Direct Connection or Mopar Performance P3690789 electronic ignition kit is convenient and well made if it can be found.


For more information on the Chrysler Elecronic Ignition system, see Chrysler Electronic Ignition.

My document is not a step-by-step conversion instruction but has the information needed to do it. The instructions from the P3690789 electronic ignition kits are available and can be used, although there are some areas that could use improvement in those.

 
Just out of purity or part specific to the manufacture quality?
Yes, I am for the most part a purist. In regards to quality, yes. But quality depends on the parts you are buying.

Bottom line, Chrysler designed one of the best electronic ignition systems ever built, with millions of miles to prove it.
It just flat out works, and works very well.

And lastly. Every GM hei system I've seen installed in a Mopar looks like AZZ.
 
sorry for about your dad
I'd also suggest the parts all mat be there,
I can see putting up the pushrods and dist in a safe place
thats how I lose stuff
maybe they are residing with the bolts
if not find, another slanty, there may be other stuff missing, too
 
Bottom line, Chrysler designed one of the best electronic ignition systems ever built

It's a fine one, sure, but "one of the best ever built" is stretching things beyond all semblance of reality.

works very well.

Other systems work better. That's not a matter of opinion, but objective and measurable fact.

But yeah, there are always gonna be those who come over all Klingon, bellowing and snarling indignantly about how they’d rather die than pollute their [brand] car with [other brand] parts, implying [brand] always only ever has the finest, most bestest engineering and [other brand]’s stuff is always only ever super-poopy. With all due respect to them, that’s kind of nutty; no automaker manufactures all their own parts, and most suppliers sell to most automakers. More to the point, a thoughtfully-done HEI retrofit is a worthy, cost-effective, not-very-difficult upgrade with real, practical benefits over a stock Mopar electronic ignition system.
 

The stock Mopar ignition system was fine for 1971. Mopar built them fine in 1971.

Today there are design that give better spark energy with fewer parts and equal or better reliability than the original Mopar parts. And today's Chinese built reproduction parts definitely aren't built fine.

The design Chrysler used temps corner cutters to fill the box with sand and cover it with a thin layer of potting. This can work OK if you get everything right. Get a bad spot and get water in there and it's game over, as happened to this voltage regulator:



There are a few better stock replacement options out there but it seems even they get a few complaints.
 
It's a fine one, sure, but "one of the best ever built" is stretching things beyond all semblance of reality.



Other systems work better. That's not a matter of opinion, but objective and measurable fact.

But yeah, there are always gonna be those who come over all Klingon, bellowing and snarling indignantly about how they’d rather die than pollute their [brand] car with [other brand] parts, implying [brand] always only ever has the finest, most bestest engineering and [other brand]’s stuff is always only ever super-poopy. With all due respect to them, that’s kind of nutty; no automaker manufactures all their own parts, and most suppliers sell to most automakers. More to the point, a thoughtfully-done HEI retrofit is a worthy, cost-effective, not-very-difficult upgrade with real, practical benefits over a stock Mopar electronic ignition system.
Like I said, but you conveniently left out, millions of miles to prove it. Carry on with the rest of your diarrhea.
 
The stock Mopar ignition system was fine for 1971. Mopar built them fine in 1971.

Today there are design that give better spark energy with fewer parts and equal or better reliability than the original Mopar parts. And today's Chinese built reproduction parts definitely aren't built fine.

The design Chrysler used temps corner cutters to fill the box with sand and cover it with a thin layer of potting. This can work OK if you get everything right. Get a bad spot and get water in there and it's game over, as happened to this voltage regulator:



There are a few better stock replacement options out there but it seems even they get a few complaints.

Like I said, it depends on the parts you buy. Obviously Chinese parts aren't going to be the parts you look for.
 
Like I said, it depends on the parts you buy. Obviously Chinese parts aren't going to be the parts you look for.
Finding anything else is a real challenge. For new ignition modules that don't come from Communist China, there's Hi Rev and FBO. For new '70 and later voltage regulators, there's one guy selling US made ones on eBay, and there's me. Or tracking down NOS parts. If anyone has other sources, feel free to share them.

The situation for HEI is currently somewhat better - I think that's partly due to volume and partly because you can't stuff a HEI full of sand.
 
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