HELP ..Runs dies No start .. then start

-
Last edited:
Cleaned the connectors pinched them a bit, checked voltage it was 11.2 ..added grease to make sure there making contact.. zip .. when the car runs with old ecu I have moved around all the wires trying to make it fail, l've bent them and pulled on them and the car doesn't falter at all ... got a new ecu this morning (#3 this one the guy will take it back they usually won't), no go...... F!@#$%^&*(K .. I'm going to have to take this in to someone but I don't know what they can look for that we haven't.
 
don't know it was removed when the car was painted and it looks solid and clean.. I've moved it around when car is running and when not starting and nothing happens
 
OKAY>>> and I don't know why, greater minds than I can can figure it out !!! ..been screwing with it for days.. so I changed the pick up back to original pick up, because I did everything else five times and >>> IT STARTED !!! ...got me, and I don't give a rats *** why ..I screwed with this thing all day today, poking, prodding, praying.. putting it on, taking it off ..I think it's solved, we'll see, its a beautiful evening and I'm taking it out for a drive and if it stalls out I'm calling an uber or lift or whatever the f@#$ their called and leaving it on the side of the road for the coyotes to devour it ..let you know
 
My buddy had this same problem, he had two isses, the harness ECU pigtail had a bad connection and behind the key switch had contact issues. Its always the RUN IGN 1 and IGN 2 seem to get messed up.
 
So if I got you correct...

Old ECU, old pickup - engine runs but dies after 40 minutes
Old ECU, New pickup - engine runs but dies after 40 minutes
New ECU #1, New pickup - engine will not start
New ECU #2, New pickup - engine will not start
New ECU #3 , Old pickup - engine starts.


That is the strangest thing I have every seen.

Did you properly gap the pickup to reluctor when you put the New pickup on the first time?
 
Don't feel like the lone ranger. Aftermarket ecu's are giving me a fit right now. I'm having the exact same problem. A decades old 5 pin will start the car and run it fine, but any new ECU, I've tried 4, and it won't start or run. I've got a GM module setup I'm eventually going to put in but the troubleshooter in me wants to fiddle with this until I figure it out. Next two things I'm going to try, is swapping the distributor wires to see if the new ecu's have pins 4 and 5 swapped (or the two distributors I've tried with same results) and then a new ECU connector to make sure I have good solid connections. I'll be watching.
 
Yeah, the gap was correct because I checked it several times, along with everything else, ....AND it ran with the new pickup and old ECU.. I am at a loss as to what the hell happened. Thank you for the help !



homer facepalm.jpg
 
Last edited:
44070dart said:
Yeah, the gap was correct because I checked it several times, along with everything else, ....AND it ran with the new pickup and old ECU.. I am at a loss as to what the hell happened. Thank you for the help !



View attachment 1715338756
Click to expand...
Dude i bet you its the harness open it up and look behind your ignition switch. Your probably pulling and tugging on the harness thus sometimes it works some times it doesnt.
 
44070dart said:
Cleaned the connectors pinched them a bit, checked voltage it was 11.2 ..added grease to make sure there making contact.. zip .. when the car runs with old ecu I have moved around all the wires trying to make it fail, l've bent them and pulled on them and the car doesn't falter at all ... got a new ecu this morning (#3 this one the guy will take it back they usually won't), no go...... F!@#$%^&*(K .. I'm going to have to take this in to someone but I don't know what they can look for that we haven't.
Click to expand...

This ain't your problem, but dielectric grease is an insulator, not a conductor. It's purpose is to keep the connection corrosion free, it does not aid in the connection.
 
RustyRatRod said:
This ain't your problem, but dielectric grease is an insulator, not a conductor. It's purpose is to keep the connection corrosion free, it does not aid in the connection.
Click to expand...
Ageed. Dielectric grease won't help a lot. The only thing I used was a little of a conductive silver impregnated paste on mine.
 
44070dart said:
Yeah, the gap was correct because I checked it several times, along with everything else, ....AND it ran with the new pickup and old ECU.. I am at a loss as to what the hell happened. Thank you for the help !



View attachment 1715338756
Click to expand...
Hope you don't mind, I'm going to start a new thread on just this one particular aspect of 4 pin ecu's not working where a 5 pin does. See what we get.
 
44070dart said:
Maybe I have two bad ecu's .. doesn't sound probable, but that's all that left.. I'll go and spend $30 more for another box I guess.. THANKS
Click to expand...
Took back my disagree on this one. Hell maybe you do have a couple bad "new" ECU's. Hate to see you buy another. I have bought about 4. Lol
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top