Help stuck engine

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chryslerfat

chryslerfat

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Just bought a diesel tractor and it is stuck from sitting. It has a cap on the exhaust so that is a plus. What mixture works best if I pull the injectors and pour it in?
 
Acetone/ATF 50/50. That is what has been recomended by some members. I have an engine still soaking in it. Very very rusty.
 
what i like best and it works is 50/50 auto trans fluid and kleen flo diesel fuel conditioner .
 
Acetone/ATF, blah blah blah.....but nothing works better than a teardown. Nothing. If an engine is stuck from rust, the rings and cylinder walls are damaged. The cylinders need to be honed at a minimum. Don't cheap out on something that is worth well more than the cost of a teardown, cleanup and re-gasket. Although it may end up needing machine work, it may not. But you will never know unless you tear it apart and tearing it apart is a 100% guarantee that you WILL un-freeze the engine. Nothing else is.
 
chryslerfat said:
Just bought a diesel tractor and it is stuck from sitting. It has a cap on the exhaust so that is a plus. What mixture works best if I pull the injectors and pour it in?
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Sir, more info ???

Year, Mfgr, Model, 2x4, 4x4, Cat trans or Allison, Eaton Hydraulics, or Meritor??

More Q's to follow...

Thx!
 
mech1nxh said:
Sir, more info ???

Year, Mfgr, Model, 2x4, 4x4, Cat trans or Allison, Eaton Hydraulics, or Meritor??

More Q's to follow...

Thx!
Click to expand...

I cant find the serial number so I will say it is a 70-75 Oliver 1755 with a 310 waukesha.
 
Yes a tear-down...but the pistons must come out.... I have a 383 with all pistons seized in the bores. I want to re do the motor but taking it apart is the issue first. It's been soaking for near 2 years with everything I can think of. My next step is air chisel the piston tops (break them apart).
 
Penetrating oil. Nothing will fix rusted, pitted cylinders and broken rings, but liquid wrench, kroil, PBblaster ect. might get it freed up before you tear it down. Shoot about half a can down each cyl. and hope you don't have to sleeve every cyl.
 
65cuda360 said:
Penetrating oil. Nothing will fix rusted, pitted cylinders and broken rings, but liquid wrench, kroil, PBblaster ect. might get it freed up before you tear it down. Shoot about half a can down each cyl. and hope you don't have to sleeve every cyl.
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Lucky thing is if that is the case it is already a wet sleeve engine.
 
he never asked how to fix it he asked how to unstick it .
to fix it it neads a tear down but it is much easier to fix it if it isnt stuck .
 
Have you tried turning it off and turning it back on again?

Crap sorry... been working to much in the IT department lately....
 
jimjimjimmy said:
he never asked how to fix it he asked how to unstick it .
to fix it it neads a tear down but it is much easier to fix it if it isnt stuck .
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Exactly, I plan on a re-ring at the least after it is free depending on the condition of the sleeves as to how far I go. It was rebuilt a few years before it was parked so the 5600 hours on the meter are not how many on the bearings etc.
 
A mixture of Kerosene or Diesel Fuel with ATF and Brake Fluid will free up an engine pretty quick.


Another one I did once, on an antique farm tractor (and again on a spare engine for my 4 wheeler) was knock the Porcelain out of a spark plug, weld it shut, drill it and tap it for a Grease Zerk and then installed it in place of the spark plug. Pump the cylinder full of grease and it pops loose from the hydraulic-like pressure. Afterward I removed the Plug-Zerk and flushed the cylinders out with the mixture of Kerosene or Diesel/ATF/Brake Fluid, blasted it out with air, slapped the spark plug back in and started the engine.
 
Great news !!!!!!! I pulled it in the barn. Pulled the exhaust manifold and found #6 port full of dead honey bee`s. I blew them out best as possible pulled the injectors and poured trans. fluid in the cylinders. Then I put a breaker bar on the crank it moved back and forth at least two inches right away. Within a few minutes it turned a full revolution. I put the injectors back in and she runs great with no smoke or blow by out the draft tube. Thanks for the input guys.
 
chryslerfat said:
Great news !!!!!!! I pulled it in the barn. Pulled the exhaust manifold and found #6 port full of dead honey bee`s. I blew them out best as possible pulled the injectors and poured trans. fluid in the cylinders. Then I put a breaker bar on the crank it moved back and forth at least two inches right away. Within a few minutes it turned a full revolution. I put the injectors back in and she runs great with no smoke or blow by out the draft tube. Thanks for the input guys.
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Ahhhh, the sweet smell of victory!!
 
if there was anti-freeze sitting on top of a piston the block will have a hole eaten in the cylinder wall needing sleeved I've seen it many times on diesel engines ,most had set for over a year, just pull the engine, it will save you a lot of time. Is the tractor for show or go.
 
teringer said:
if there was anti-freeze sitting on top of a piston the block will have a hole eaten in the cylinder wall needing sleeved I've seen it many times on diesel engines ,most had set for over a year, just pull the engine, it will save you a lot of time. Is the tractor for show or go.
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I used a Snap-on borescope that just arrived to look in the cylinder and it was dry. This is also a wet sleeve from the start. I plan on using this tractor.
 
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