help Super Charger Small Block

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If you're still in the market, dyers can set you up with a 4-71 and adapter plate for a 6-71 intake. Max wedge performance in Sydney can make the manifold
 
why both with a 4/71 on a small block? going to have to spin it to much to make it worth it and then your efficiency will drop. use a 6/71 and under drive it and make the same power with less effort
 
I would also use the 6-71 and spin it slower.
Less heat equals more power at the same boost.
 
I agree with other posters here. Given the efficiency of today's blowers, and the ability to 'slow down' the blower to reduce heat while making good boost is the way to go.

A 4-71 would be a good fit for a V-6; 6-71's for most small blocks; 8-10-71's for big inch race small block and big blocks; and 10-12-71's for big inch big blocks and large race big blocks.

Just my .02

Southernman
 
I have built several blower motors in the past. The gentleman that taught me was a retired nitro racer. His view was, for a street blower engine, you wanted to actually use the blower. He said since they were so expensive, he liked spinning them. All of the engines we built had between 6 and 7:1 compression. His opinion was with SCR that low, there was no need for boost retard, water injection or any of that stuff, plus you could run the blower either at 1:1 or overdrive it a tad. He always said why retard the timing or spray water in it? Doing those things effectively puts the fire out. All of the engines we built ran very well. Those on the lower SCR side could run on regular, but the 7:1 motors needed premium. I guess he figured if you're gonna pay 5K for something, use the hell out of it. I like how he thought. May he RIP.
 
B&M used to make them for the SB mopar. Limited quantity, and very hard to find. Dick Landy Industries also used to retro fit the chevy units and he modified the Holley Strip Dominator manifold for them as well. Don't discredit these little blowers, they really work, and are still available for the brand X vehicles. There's a few members here who have run them in the past. MiradaMegaCab, SuperChargedDart, and Daniel Depetro I think has a few of 'em.

I have a kit I bought a while ago, but If I were to do it again, I think I'd use a procharger instead.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I have built several blower motors in the past. The gentleman that taught me was a retired nitro racer. His view was, for a street blower engine, you wanted to actually use the blower. He said since they were so expensive, he liked spinning them. All of the engines we built had between 6 and 7:1 compression. His opinion was with SCR that low, there was no need for boost retard, water injection or any of that stuff, plus you could run the blower either at 1:1 or overdrive it a tad. He always said why retard the timing or spray water in it? Doing those things effectively puts the fire out. All of the engines we built ran very well. Those on the lower SCR side could run on regular, but the 7:1 motors needed premium. I guess he figured if you're gonna pay 5K for something, use the hell out of it. I like how he thought. May he RIP.
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Don't want to argue with your late friend but back then a fuel motor only made 2500 to 3000 hp. There are drag week cars now days that can drive 1500 miles on gasoline and make 2500 hp. Water injection alone is worth 50 to 75 hp without changing the tune. Cool dense air equals horsepower because cool air will hold more fuel. That is why mine has a 10-71 blower, if it weren't for me wanting to keep my wipers it would have a 14-71.Technology has come a long way and water injection has been around a long time! Fighter planes used it to boost horsepower.
 
WWII engines not only used water, they used alcohol/ water AND nitrous!!!
 
67 HEMI said:
Don't want to argue with your late friend but back then a fuel motor only made 2500 to 3000 hp. There are drag week cars now days that can drive 1500 miles on gasoline and make 2500 hp. Water injection alone is worth 50 to 75 hp without changing the tune. Cool dense air equals horsepower because cool air will hold more fuel. That is why mine has a 10-71 blower, if it weren't for me wanting to keep my wipers it would have a 14-71.Technology has come a long way and water injection has been around a long time! Fighter planes used it to boost horsepower.
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I agree, '67, technology has come so far over the past decade, and most of the old "norms", or make that, limitations, just don't apply anymore, though most of it still works.

I'm building a couple turbo motors now, and, given the excellent materials; advances in cam profiles; outstanding ignition timing and fuel control systems; when mated up with water/meth injection means most guys are building boosted applications now with at least 10.0-1, which eliminates the "lazyness" of the older low static compression approach, and I've ran 'em both ways, but the higher static CR improves throttle response at lower engine speeds.

With a 10.0-1 static CR, you can build big power, without boost, and incorporate the technologies above to manage detonation while under boost, and make crazy power. It's a great time to be building boosted applications and good luck with that build and be sure to post up some pics...

I've also gotta laugh at your 14-71 comment: The blower crowd must all think alike, since I've literally had the saw in hand, but chickened out at the last minute and just installed a blower that would fit, and it was still huge !!!

Southernman
 
I think too, a lot of the problem that as lead to some of the new technology is the quality of today's fuel.
 
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