Help wanted!

[65dartcharger]

I'm in a process of restoring a 1965 Dart w/power brakes. I need to get more info about the master cylinder!

Picture one is showing master cylinder from 1964 Dart w/power brakes, no bolt holding the piston in place and seven digit partnumber underneath.

Picture two is showing master cylinder from 1965 Dart w/o power brakes, bolts holding the piston in place and seven digit partnumber underneath.

Picture three is showing NOS master cylinder for 1965 Dodge Coronet w/power brakes. Bolts are holding the piston in place.

Now the question is;

What type of cylinder should I use? The diameter on the brake cylinders are the same, the pistons are the same. The only thing different is the rod. May that be the only difference in style?

Does someone knows of a NOS master cylinder with power brakes that is for sale?

Any help is more then welcome.

 

[cudamark]

I've seen several versions of those master cylinders myself. The power ones usually have a larger diameter piston than the manual cylinders. Most of those early cars have a retainer that holds the piston in the cylinder. It also holds the dust boot on one end. On the power cylinders there is usually just a little finger that bolts to one hole in the cylinder and extends over far enough to keep the piston in. Since they mount to a booster, they don't need a dust boot.

 

[cudamark]

If it was my car and not a stock restoration, I'd convert the thing to a dual braking system and use the proper version of master cylinder to match....boosted or not.

 

[65dartcharger]

I've seen several versions of those master cylinders myself. The power ones usually have a larger diameter piston than the manual cylinders. Most of those early cars have a retainer that holds the piston in the cylinder. It also holds the dust boot on one end. On the power cylinders there is usually just a little finger that bolts to one hole in the cylinder and extends over far enough to keep the piston in. Since they mount to a booster, they don't need a dust boot.

I checked the diameter on the master cylinder and they seems to be the same. Even same as the Coronet cylinder. But you were right about the retainer. They were just on the power brake cylinders. But was that all the difference between the cylinders?

I have 7 cylinders and all of them are the same. The only differences are the numbers on the under the cylinder. One cylinder don't have the drop in the from under the connection.

Would it be possible then to us a the Coronet master cylinder and put the retainer back after glass beading and new finish on it?

 

[cudamark]

Since brake fluid is a good paint remover, I wouldn't bother refinishing them. It'll just come off again. They came bare from the factory for that reason. All those early 60's cylinders seem to physically swap around. The difference I've seen is in the piston diameter. The smaller the diameter, the easier it is to apply the brakes but the more the pedal travels. Put whichever one you want on the car and see what the pedal feel is like. I would keep a retainer over the piston at all times unless you're going to pull it apart and rebuild it. I wouldn't blast anywhere around the piston as you my drive particles past the seal. Both manual and power brake cylinders have a piston retainer and they should swap. One is a finger type and other holds a dust boot, spring, and washer. You'll have to pull the push rod out of the manual one to use it in the power application. If you're going the other way, make sure you have a good grommet/o-ring on the push rod when you install it in the end of the piston. On a used master cylinder, I would just push the pedal down no more than 1/4 of the way when you bleed it, or, better yet, gravity bleed or vacuum bleed the thing so you don't accidentally damage the piston seal inside. Sometimes the cylinder will get a little corrosion farther down in the bore where the seal wasn't rubbing.