Help with 340 timing cover oil seal please

[gerahead]

I am trying to get the 72 340 reassembled. I need to replace the front crankshaft seal in the timing cover. The seal that came with my engine gasket set is the wrong style. Mine is pressed in from the inside of the cover and the seal from the kit is pressed in from the outside. I can't seem to find the correct style needed for my application. Can someone please help with a source or part number for the seal that installs from the inside? The Mopar number on the seal is 3418494, if that helps. Thanks for your help!

 

[j_anderson]

I think it's the same seal. You just tap it in from the back instead of the front.

 

[Dartswinger70]

I never heard of two different seals unless the Magnum has a different one? and Yes a LA seal taps in from the rear side of the cover.

 

[gerahead]

I think it's the same seal. You just tap it in from the back instead of the front.

I thought about that, but it looks to me like the seal surface will be backwards.

 

[j_anderson]

install it with the same face pointing outward no matter if you go in from the front or the rear.

both of these styles use the same seal.

 

[gerahead]

If I install it with the same face looking outward, there isn't a "face" that I can press against to tap it in. I would have to press against the slightly tapered edge of the seal. It seems to me that I would damage the seal housing by doing that?

 

[Dartswinger70]

You can use a seal driver or carefully tap it in with a soft faced hammer think like, one of those Craftsman where one side is plastic the other rubber OR use a block of wood etc. I think I always used a soft hammer before I had a seal driver set.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Pictures will greatly help here.

 

[jeff alder]

block of wood for sure...seal driver even better...a large socket that matches the seal outer edge...a good pipe fitting. Slow and easy

 

[gerahead]

Pictures will greatly help here.

For sure, I was in the process of taking some and uploading them. This is the cover style that my engine has. The flat surface of the seal will need to bottom in this position.

These are pix of the seal that I took out. It has a nice, flat surface to drive it into position.

These are pix of the new seal. This one looks to be intended to be driven in from the outside. To keep the "wings" of the seal in the correct orientation, I would have to drive the seal from the thin edge, with no surface that can absorb the force of the installation. I don't see how I could do that without destroying the body of the seal?

 

[RustyRatRod]

For sure, I was in the process of taking some and uploading them. This is the cover style that my engine has. The flat surface of the seal will need to bottom in this position.View attachment 1716425071

These are pix of the seal that I took out. It has a nice, flat surface to drive it into position.

View attachment 1716425073View attachment 1716425072

These are pix of the new seal. This one looks to be intended to be driven in from the outside. To keep the "wings" of the seal in the correct orientation, I would have to drive the seal from the thin edge, with no surface that can absorb the force of the installation. I don't see how I could do that without destroying the body of the seal?

View attachment 1716425081View attachment 1716425082

Yeah, ok. You're just gonna have to get something and put between the seal and outer shell to drive on the inside of the front face. I use a small, flat faced brass punch. The block of wood is also another good idea and you can use that directly on the outer shell. Don't forget to put a thin coat of RTV around the outside of the shell. The red coating IS a sealer, but they always sit on the shelf and sealant dries completely out and is worthless.

 

[Dartswinger70]

yeah you can carefully tap that in with a soft mallet maybe a block of wood to lay across 3 and 9... 6 and 12 etc.

 

[NC Engine Builder]

I use a short peice of 3" exhaust tubing like this, works great, no damage to the seal.

 

[gerahead]

I use a short peice of 3" exhaust tubing like this, works great, no damage to the seal.

View attachment 1716425102

Awesome! Thanks NC Engine Builder!

Jim

 

[Desoto291hemi]

Good job .

Like Gunny Highway said,,,,Improvise,,,learn to adapt !
I really like that piece of tubing and plate stock that NC builder uses .

Tommy

 

[gerahead]

Good job .

Like Gunny Highway said,,,,Improvise,,,learn to adapt !
I really like that piece of tubing and plate stock that NC builder uses .

Tommy

Awesome! Thanks NC Engine Builder!

Jim

Worked like a champ! I got a 3" coupler from the store and I was able to use the push plates from my Harbor Freight Ball Joint Service Kit on both ends of the seal and coax it in with a dead blow hammer. I tried using a large c-clamp first, but I couldn't get the pipe and seal to start square. I turned a 15 minute job into something a whole lot longer than that! Thanks to all who helped out!

Jim