Help with steering coupler

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kcoyle

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In an effort to reduce the slop in thr steering on my 65 cuda I adjusted the power steering box as per the manual and i bought the coupler rebuild kit. I managed to get the steering shaft out of the coupler, but how can i get the coupler off if the steering box? I would like to clean it all up and take out the 40 yr old crud. I removed what looks like a set screw on the coupler but I can't get it off. any ideas? Also, mine doesn't seem to have a spring clip on it, just the 2 metal shoes and 2 square washers? And whats with the roll pin and tiny pin? I checked the early mopar web page and that guys coupler looks different. I'm baffled again by a simple task.
Thanks.

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The tiny pin keeps the guts in the coupler. You need to beat the roll pin out with a hamer and punch to get the coupler off.
 
Put that set screw back in. Turn the box coupling 90 degrees and drive the split pin out with a long punch and hammer. pry the box coupling off the spined shaft with a large screw driver or ball joint splitter ( pickle fork ).
If you can get the cap off the box ( think bottle cap ) without damaging it you want to reuse it. Successful crimping of the new cap is a waste of time and effort. The new cap looks too good anyway. LOL
 
Thanks guys. I don't see the split pin but I'll check again. It must be under the grease somewhere.
 
Hey kcoyle youre coupler looks like mine and I cannot find any rollpin small or large on mine. I was just wondering if you finally found any on yours and where were they? Thanks
 
kcoyle

I have a '65 Dart and have been in intimate contact with the steering
coupler (and other steering components) on several occasions. But if you lack confidence in my experience, look for more about Mopar couplers by (Dr. E) in what should be your favorite Mopar magazine soon. I am going to lay out this info to help you avoid really frustrating steering problems....and you don't want to have problems with your steering!!!
First, there are three very good recent articles relating to mopar steering in the above mentioned mag. Your question on how to remove the coupler from the steering box is primarily answered in one of three articles. BUT NOTE: Your particular coupler is held (locked) onto the steering box NOT by a spring pin BUT BY THE SET SCREW YOU REMOVED. There is NO spring pin holding your coupler to your steering box. There is also a (correct, vintage) coupler that utilizes a clamp and bolt to lock the steering coupler to the steering box. These are fine couplers, too. BUT ANY COUPLER THAT HAS A SPRING PIN LOCKING IT TO THE STEERING BOX MUST BE SUSPECTED AS BEING INCORRECT FOR EARLY A-BODIES DUE TO INCORRECT MASTER SPLINE LOCATION!
Next, use a pickle fork to gently slide/wedge off your coupler. If this takes much effort, STOP,YOU MAY BE DOING SOMETHING WRONG, OR YOU MAY NEED TO APPLY PENETRATING OIL AND ALLOW TO SOAK.
You REALLY need to avoid damaging your coupler, because...THE MASTER SPLINE LOCATION IN YOUR COUPLER HAS A FAIRLY UNIQUE RELATION TO YOUR 65 A-BODY STEERING. If it is damaged, then your only sure replacement alternative (so far as I know) is to find another undamaged coupler. DO NOT COUNT ON THE COUPLERS YOU SEE ADVERTISED ANYWHERE TO HAVE A MASTER SPLINE IN THE CORRECT POSITION. ***FOR THIS REASON, DO NOT EVER SEND A STEERING BOX OUT FOR A REBUILD WITH THE ORIGINAL STEERING COUPLER ATTACHED. YOU MAY GET BACK A REPLACEMENT THAT IS NOT CORRECT AND WILL NOT WORK!!! (AS I DID FROM STEER-N-GEAR).***
The pin in the steering shaft SHOULD NOT BE MOLESTED UNLESS BROKEN OR VERY BADLY WORN. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD YOU DRIVE IT OUT WITH A HAMMER!!! These pins are pressed into the steering shaft, and must, if needed, be pressed out. This is work for a skilled machine shop or other qualified facility only. Caveat: If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
As far as I know, the internal parts of vintage mopar steering couplers interchange, although I have seen differences in the shoes as well as the springs. All variations seem to work well.
Read the articles on Mopar steering by Dr. E (Rick Ehrenberg). It will be well worth your time.
Sincerely,
KenAbody
 
Stoke, Ken,

I just went for it after examining the coupler for about 20 minutes and gave it a tap with a pickle fork and rubber mallet. It just popped off. I have also decided not to remove the steel pin from the shaft since its really in there and I don't feel like going to my buddies place to get it out. it doesn't look worn. My coupler has 2 shoes and 2 "spring washers" instead of a spring clip. (2 pieces of bent metal that have a hole in them and sit over the metal pin). I will probably reuse everything except the shoes. This has been a giant PITA to take out a little play on the steering ( I hope) but maybe next time someone will read this and not take out the whole steering column thinking you would need to to get the shaft to a work bench to press out the pin as I did. I ordered the firewall gasket kit from schumacher but refused to buy this gasket;

http://www.rtspecialties.net/proddetail.asp?prod=2266738

due to the outrageous price.

Hopefully this will be worth it and help the steering a bit as a new box is out of my price range right now.
 
Doesn't that lower column seal also serve as lower column bearing ?
If that is so and mine was worn I would replace it while in there.
Good luck
 
I just replaced my steering column and p.steering to manual(66 Dart)It had the roll pin and was punched out with a punch and hammer?No problems.Advise..make a mark where coupler meets splined end on steering box for reinstall.
 
Doesn't that lower column seal also serve as lower column bearing ?
If that is so and mine was worn I would replace it while in there.
Good luck

I sure hope not. It's 40 bucks for a little rubber donut. My original was there but was torn in 2 pieces. The hard plastic piece on the shaft, and the rubber boot it's supposed to be attached to. Anyone know if I really need this?
 
pettybludart, kcolye, stoke, redfish...
A recent trip to my favorite outdoor antique car museum (junk yard) revealed NO LESS THAN THREE different styles of steering couplers in various 1965 'cudas.... the spring pin type, the clamp (with 7/16 nut & bolt) type, and the set screw type.
kcoyle has the set screw type, pettybludart has the spring pin type, and I have (or had) the clamp type.
pettybludart, the COUPLER "roll pin" (really a spring pin) IS driven out with a pin punch. The STEERING SHAFT PIN is pressed out. This pin is solid steel.
kcoyle, the steering shaft pin rarely shows much sign of wear. Yes, the springs and shoes you refer to were used in early couplers. Yes, the lower column seal/shaft support is expensive. To me, it was always a fairly crude attempt at lower steering shaft support, yet I can't say that they never did the job they were intended to do! They wouldn't stand (for long) the header heat in my car. I long ago machined an aluminum/sintered bronze lower shaft support to eliminate the original seal/support.
KenAbody
 
kcoyle,
Later mopars, including a-bodies, had a "real" shaft support bearing. Yes, I would say you need this, particularly if you have a floor shift console (if for no other reason than to keep out the dirt). Steering box-to-column alignment in early a-bodies was generally excellent, so it's function as a lower shaft support is minimal.
Ken A.
 
Ken,

Thanks for the good information. I suppose I'll have to break down and get it then.

This is slowly becoming the hate side of a love/hate relationship with this car!
 
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