help with vacuum advance

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tekslk

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My initial is 22 my total is 32 I just got a bluestreak advance canister with a 11r stamped on the arm. UC-208 If I install this am I correct on thinking my total now will be 54 Also I see no adjustment on this can Or cant you see it?
 
Its not blue streak that was the distributor cap I got its standard UC-208.
 
I personally think that with a 22+10 I'd leave the vacuum off unless you intend to use it with non ported manifold vacuum.
I had mine at 14 plus 18 mechanical with ported vacuum on top of that and was getting some nasty preignition at wide open.
The engine likes 12-14 at this elevation (5,400 ft) and with all of them working together it was too much, so with 14 initial and 18 more mechanical all in by 2,500 rpm it has a 32 total and runs great.
 
My initial is 22 my total is 32 I just got a bluestreak advance canister with a 11r stamped on the arm. UC-208 If I install this am I correct on thinking my total now will be 54 Also I see no adjustment on this can Or cant you see it?

Allen key in the nipple???
 
Here is my take. Vacuum advance should not advance timing at wide open throttle, or at idle if using ported it timed vacuum source. The 22 degree initial timing seems too much. With only 10 degrees of RPM advance, you are stuck with that, to get 32T. By opening the RPM advance slots to get 8 more degrees, would let you to set the base timing at 14, and get the max RPM advance at 32. The adjustment of the vacuum advance at the nipple allen, changes only the minimum vacuum required for start of vacuum advance changes. The total vacuum advance can be limited, by adding stops on the linkage arm. Too much vacuum advance results in surging when coasting down, and over advance at light load. Insufficient, or no vacuum advance may lead to poor economy, sluggish throttle response, and overheating of headers, and engine at cruise speeds.

With this said, some lock the timing at 32, some use mechanical only, some like early VW used only vacuum control. Others think knock sensing solves all timing issues. In reality, knock sensing controls are quite specific to engine dynamics. They do limited range adjustments, in conjunction with spark control tables.

And a very few spend time tuning to get timing nearly correct, or use modern engine management controls for perfection.
 
Just roadchecked no ping or knock vacume a little high I might have to work with the rod if I have trouble when it gets hot out but for now I think I will keep my hands off. I do run a good blend of 93 plus 1 gallon of 112 cam 2 to every tank. thanks for all the info. Gas milage check next 13 or higher I will be thrilled.
 
Have you CHECKED advance with the vacuum all in?

Normally, the stamping on the vac. can is DISTRIBUTOR degrees, meaning your 11* is actually 22 at the crank. The same is true of all Mopar shop manuals, and the stamped figure on the underside of the Mopar advance mechanism. These must be multiplied x2 to get crank degrees.

To check it, hook up the hose, and (I hope your wheel is marked or timing tape) and if you are a little leary of high RPM fan blades, just perform this with the engine barely warm and the belt off, rev the engine up slowly and see what's "all in." If you want to check JUST the vacuum, simply not what you have at idle with NO vacuum hooked up, then hook the can temporarily to manifold vacuum instead of ported. Check this with your light, and the difference will of course be what the vac can is giving you
 
I guess vac can is giving me 22 because I have 54 at anything over 2000 rpm. Wont have hot weather till next summer so I guess Im good for now, I may have to limit the arm travel later.
 
Yup. OK. Just check it for pinging when hot, up a steep hill, and "kick" on starting.
 
I think I read this over in the other thread and hooking up the vac can should not change your idle setting unless the port is showing vacuum. Might check the port with a gauge. If it's showing vacuum, you need to fix it.

Might pull a vacuum on the can to see where it activates, then tweak the allen screw.

Sounds like you are getting it sorted out.
 
A mity-vac can be your friend. Get a mity-vac with vacuum gauge. It can be used to measure engine vacuum, checking the vacuum available at the port used for the vacuum advance. It can also be connected directly to the vacuum advance can and by using the hand pump, and timing light, you can measure and record timing change with vacuum. It is necessary to keep engine rpm steady, and a timing tape. So you will need a tach too. By keeping engine rpm steady, the rpm advance will stay the same. Rpm goes up when advancing timing, so you will to control throttle.
 
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