Help!?!?!?

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67valiant 100

67valiant 100

go fast or go home
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I was changing the thermostat in our '70 Newport 383 cause it has a slight overheating problem and the head of the one bolt under the A/C compressor snapped right off :eek:ops: I got the thermostat off but now I have the broken bolt to deal with. Any got any suggestion as to how to remove it? :banghead:

Thanks in advance.
 
Is this a steal intake the bolt broke off of ? or aluminum, ether way get some Blaster penetrating oil or liquid wrench right away and use an ez-out set, Dill the correct size hole that matches the ez-out kit for the size bolt that broke of, use a center punch to assure you are drill bit stays in the center


[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMrDYJvY0Ts"]Screw extractor | easyout | broken bolt removal - YouTube[/ame]
 
Another way would be using a reverse drill bit, some times it heats the bolt up and breaks it free because it is a backwards cut/drill and will cut in reverse
 
sounds like the ac compressor needs to come off to get the room
 
I've had good luck on broken off bolts with the reverse drill bits like MEMIKE said. Use the reverse drill bit to drill the hole for your easy out. Sometimes ya get lucky and it spins out while drilling the hole.
 
Is any part of the bolt exposed? If so, use a pair if vice grips on it. Get them as tight as possible and then a little tighter. Once they are on as tight as possible, tap them with a hammer counter clockwise. It'll shock the bolt and many times break it loose.

If none is exposed, you're going to have to drill it out like mentioned above. If you drill it, be careful and then run a tap down the hole.....might have to cut larger diameter thread and use a larger diameter bolt. If you drill ir tap, use a shop vac to clean up the shavings or a lot of compressed air and don't forget a pair of safety glasses.
 
If you have a MIG welder, the easiest way by far would be to keep tacking small "dots" onto the broken bolt, being carful not to weld to the surrounding metal. This heats the bolt, AND gives you something to get hold of with vise-grips or a pipe wrench.
 
A38Valiant said:
If you have a MIG welder, the easiest way by far would be to keep tacking small "dots" onto the broken bolt, being carful not to weld to the surrounding metal. This heats the bolt, AND gives you something to get hold of with vise-grips or a pipe wrench.
Click to expand...

Or set a nut on top and weld the bolt to the nut
 
Thanks for all the suggestions! Well we opened the radiator cap only to find that all the tubes are completely clogged. The car on had 34,000 original miles on it & the heads were rebuild by the prior owner. Then when my dad restored it back in '01 or so he put a bran new radiator in it. So can antifreeze go bad? We've only put like 2,500 miles on it since '01, most from the past couple trips to Carslile (400 mile round trip?) But we have never changed the antifreeze (since it wad restored) cause it never crossed our minds. So now we have the whole front of the engine bay being taken apart because we want to fix the cam time, its supposedly 180* out if that makes any sence (the power stroke and exhaust stroke are reversed if that clears it up) Kinda down because we were so siked to get it out of it's winter hibernation and now we have to deal with this.
 
The cam and crank relation cant be 180 out. The crank doesn't know one stroke from the other. The cam defines the stroke.
Depending on what intake you have , the water neck bolts may or may not be drilled all the way through to the water. If they aren't into the water and you do try to drill out the broken bolt , try not to drill all the way through to the water. If you do hit water you will need a sealant on the new bolts threads.
I own easy outs and I've used them but that doesn't stop my hating them. To break one of those rascals off in the bolt is a nightmare. I normally just take the time to step my drill size up until there is nothing but a shell of the original bolt left in the hole and chisel that out. Tap chase/clean the threads and done.
 
67valiant 100 said:
Thanks for all the suggestions! Well we opened the radiator cap only to find that all the tubes are completely clogged. The car on had 34,000 original miles on it & the heads were rebuild by the prior owner. Then when my dad restored it back in '01 or so he put a bran new radiator in it. So can antifreeze go bad? We've only put like 2,500 miles on it since '01, most from the past couple trips to Carslile (400 mile round trip?) But we have never changed the antifreeze (since it wad restored) cause it never crossed our minds. So now we have the whole front of the engine bay being taken apart because we want to fix the cam time, its supposedly 180* out if that makes any sence (the power stroke and exhaust stroke are reversed if that clears it up) Kinda down because we were so siked to get it out of it's winter hibernation and now we have to deal with this.
Click to expand...

Antifreeze shouldn't really go bad. However, if you use regular water that has a high mineral content or large amount of calcium, it can calcify in the narrow passages of the radiator. Other minerals can cause corrosion or microscopic breakdown of the aluminum, copper, brass, steel etc used in the radiator.

You can try to flush the radiator to clear out any blockage and then use distilled water and antifreeze, or water wetter. If the radiator contains rust, or scale I've heard you can use CLR either straight or diluted to clean it. However, I have never tried that method, but have heard it works if you let the radiator soak for several days and then flush, repeat as necessary.

Edit: Just remembered....some antifreeze has silicates or something like that to prevent rust and can actually accumulate and clog a radiator also.
 
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