here I go again

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mopardads67

mopardads67

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Ok let me start by thanking those of you that have helped me so far,but I'm still having ignition problems.Let me start at the begining.awhile ago i was going through mechanical voltage regulators,so I installed an electronic one, easy enough just run an extra wire from the altenator and tye into that with the blue wire from from wire harness and then terminate at the feed side of the ballast resistor.Worked with out a hitch.Now lets jump ahead a couple of years.I pulled the very tired /6 and installed a fresh home built 318 nothing fancey just a mild cam,new 600cfm carb with electric choke and figured it would be a good time to install electronic egnition.Following mopar performance directions I wired using a used wire harness, bluewith yellow tracer,black with yellowtracer and the 2 that hook to distrbutor.Ok problem car started ran rough popped a couple times through carb another pop blew (exploded) courtesy light in car and then no spark.Ohmed out ballest resistor had 1.5 ohms this is not the one that is included with kit.Voltage at resistor is battery voltage at feed side and 6.5 coming out ,6.5 at coil.Hooked my meter to coil+ pulled distributor, key to on position, turned dist. no change in coil voltage.Unhooked ditributor to get voltage reading at dist.off of pick up, plug had a reading of 0-50 mv which I would guess is ok because I had a second distrutor to compare to and it was roughly the same. Ok I did find a mistake with electric choke being tied into the feed side of the ballast resistor,so i unhooked it and still had nothing,the car turns over ok just no spark.I pulled ecm and took it to a couple of parts stores and none of them had any way of testing.I just got a new summit brand ecm today and I want to install it but I would really like to make sure all is well in case I did blow the other one,by the way is there any way to bench test an ecm?Any kind of advice would be greatly appriciated.Thanks Mark k.
 
Couple interesting things here. Courtesy light exploded? Sounds like some sort of significant voltage event here. Maybe an overvoltage from the charging system? Are any other circuits or accessories in the car damaged? Alternators can put out lots of power under the right conditions and it could be possible to make wiring errors that could put over 100 volts to your car's electrical system. (Google "weldernator" to see how this works). Could be the same surge that blew out your courtesy light destroyed your ECU. I'd suggest disconnecting your alternator for initial start up, then troubleshoot the conversion.
 
Ok disconnected choke from wrong circuit,replaced ecm, car started right up ran long enough for things to set right,temp good, oil psi good , shut it down to cool and check for leaks.All is good.Go to start the next day runs and starts blowing fuses{the ones for the fusable link I installed} Replace the fuse and put my meter on the batt +and - and started checked voltage, and it went from 14v to ,depending on rpm to up to 17.I installed an ammeter and can see almost 60a on start up and of corse it blows the fuse and now once the fuse blows instead of the car still running it starts to misfire and shuts off.Yeup and guess what now I have no spark.I've followed electronic voltage regulator schematics ,I've followed electronic egnition schematics,I mean the egnition if you think about it is only tieing in two wires, the one to the ballast ''hot'' and one to coil neg.I just don't unders stand where I went wrong.
 
mopardads67 said:
I've followed electronic voltage regulator schematics ,I've followed electronic egnition schematics,I mean the egnition if you think about it is only tieing in two wires, the one to the ballast ''hot'' and one to coil neg.I just don't unders stand where I went wrong.
Click to expand...

If you are teling us that the run wire coming from the ignition switch is the same above wire you just described I believe you are mistaken or your wiring is wrong. True it goes to the "hot" side of the ballast but it sure should not go to the coil -

I'm guessing you did not disconnect the alternator like was mentioned above for a trial run?

There is a chance that with that high of voltage you might have fried the ECM
 
Ok,I'll give you a run down of all connections that I had made starting with voltage reg.Green wire to field at alt. no splices anywhere.Blue wire spliced to blue that goes from hot side of ballest to the other alt field.On to the ecm Light blue with yellow tracer to hot side of ballast(now there is a total of 3 wires going to the ballast hot at this time light Blue with yellow ,drk blue with white tracer which goes to brake warning lamp and dark blue to field at alt and volt reg.Black with yellow to coil neg.Comming from the load side of ballast there are two wires drk blue to coil pos the other is brown and goes to ignition switch .I'm going to try this place here in town to see if they can check my ecm and voltage reg as soon as I'm done here.I tried to post pics last night to show everyone that I'm not some kind of hack(can be very anal though)but I didn't have any luck.Thanks to all for your help,I will get it sooner or later.Mark
 
Well no luck with finding a place to check ecm.They said it must be on car to check and of corse that's not going to work because it won't start to be able to drive it there.
 
Good luck w/ your problem, I'm having similar issues. You might be able to have the ecm checked at a Chryco dealer, or an older garage, it takes about...less than a minute. I had mine checked at an old garage in town, no charge, as in free!

Dan
 
crooked1/2dozen said:
Good luck w/ your problem, I'm having similar issues. You might be able to have the ecm checked at a Chryco dealer, or an older garage, it takes about...less than a minute. I had mine checked at an old garage in town, no charge, as in free!

Dan
Click to expand...

Thanks,I'll check around some old filling stations to see if they can help
 
I will try to get pictures up today of my wiring,if this will help anyone to help me.Just give me time to get a couple hours sleep.Don't get off until 6am.
 
Ok here goes blue/yellow from ecm to ballast hot at that side of ballast there are a blue/white to brake idiot light,blue to alt fld.Load side there is brown to ignition switch,blue to coil +.From ecm black/ yellow to coil -.From voltage reg, green to alt. fld.and blue, spliced to blue from alt fld going to ballast hot.So I've been over this a million times I just don't know whats wrong
dadspictures002.jpg

dadspictures003.jpg
 
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