jimmy62
Member
Hi all I’m wondering if a late model 5 plug slant 6 will bolt up to the s series manual gearbox thanks for any help
Hi I’m from South Australia I have an 1961 s series that needs tlc
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Hi Jimmy, welcome from West Virginia. I am no expert but there are plenty here. I would suggest putting as much information as you can so others can help you out
I don't know what an S series transmission is, BUT, you will need to pay close attention to the crankshaft register where the flywheel seats. The early engines (up to 67 I believe), used a smaller size register than the later (68 and up), so you will need the appropriate flywheel with the larger center hole. At least that's how they did it HERE.
jimmy62
Member
S series valiant is like a 1961 or 62 Plymouth the gearbox is a no sincro 3 speed manual the motor is around 1969 to 1970 I have the right fly wheel I don’t know if there’s any other differences cheers
Ok that sounds like the A903 3 speed. Does it have a flat plate on top?
NudeHemidude
Well-Known Member
The bellhousing pattern should be the same for all slants.
jimmy62
Member
I got the fly wheel right but when I put them together it stops about 10 mm short yet it measures up fine
@Charrlie_S can you add something here?
That sounds about the distance an out of alignment clutch disc would hold it off. Did you use a clutch alignment tool when you assembled the clutch?
NudeHemidude
Well-Known Member
Did the engine you're using have a manual behind it or auto before you got it?
If it was an auto, you will need a spigot bush in the crank register for the gearbox input shaft to sit in.
I agree that the clutch disc might be hung up on the input shaft splines.
Try taking the clutch off and see if the box goes up all the way.
Then you'll know if it is the clutch alignment.
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
As long as the flywheel center hole fits the crank register properly, everything else should work. 10mm is about .400 inches. Was the new engine from a standard trans car or automatic. If automatic, Check the small diameter hole in the end of the crank. Not all of them were finished for a pilot bushing. Usually they were drilled, but not reamed to finished size, and it is possible though not probable it is not deep enough. It would be more likely the pilot bushing is too tight. There used to be a reduced OD bushing to fix that problem, but it has not been available here in the states for a few years. Two ways to fix that problem (if that's what is wrong). Turn down the OD of the stock bushing to fit properly, or use this part. More Information for NATIONAL FC69907
I agree about removing the clutch, and trying to fit the trans up to the engine.
I agree about removing the clutch, and trying to fit the trans up to the engine.
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
I just thought of something. I am not sure on the Aussie Valiants/Slants, but I think I read somewhere they used a different starter in the early years. You might want to check the number of teeth on the two different flywheels, and see if the number of teeth on the starter pinion, would be the same.
Maybe @slantsixdan can shed some more light on this.
Maybe @slantsixdan can shed some more light on this.
slantsixdan
=..=
The S-model Australian Valiant (=US '62 model) used the US-type gear reduction starter with 10-tooth, ø33mm drive pinion. The R-model (=US '61 model) used the US-type Prestolite (Auto-Lite) direct-drive starter with 9-tooth, ø25mm drive pinion. Australian AP5 ('63) through VF ('69) Slant-6s used locally-made Bosch direct-drive (9-tooth, ø25mm) or gear-reduction (10-tooth, ø27.5mm) starters; some of the V8s used a version of the Bosch gear-reduction starter with a 10-tooth ø33mm pinion.
OP, Charrlie is right; you'll need to use a starter that matches the flywheel.
OP, Charrlie is right; you'll need to use a starter that matches the flywheel.
jimmy62
Member
jimmy62
Member
thanks fellas for all your information I had thought about the clutch but I will go through everything and see what I can find cheers
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