I've got the 3M PPS 2.0 adaptor. I wish the liners were cheaper and all you can buy is packs of 100 or a starter kit with 6 liners for $65 up here. I end up reusing the liners lol. From what I have seen unless you're spraying a whole car in an expensive downdraft booth you are going to get some crap in the paint so I don't see how spraying at home is going to be any worse if you build a decent booth. Also, you can rent booths in some places for less than it cost to build one.
high build primer
- Thread starter moparstud440
- Start date
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340six
King Of Bling
Well sometimes after paying tha Mopar Tax ya gotta be tighter than a crabs ***
340six
King Of Bling
Did you check Princess Auto? Tha Canook Harbor Freight
Yep. It’s 3M… no cheap way
jbc426
Well-Known Member
All 2 part, high-build primers shrink to some degree over the long run (5 to 10 years). Block sand as much off as you can, and use a paint depth meter to avoid cutting it down to bare metal.
Picture is of my quarter panel reflecting some drapes at a car show.
Picture is of my quarter panel reflecting some drapes at a car show.
ir3333
Well-Known Member
I think that may be where CRE epoxy shines...almost no shrinkage after 3 days. I use CRE epoxy start to finish even as my hi build. I have used 2K urethane high build and it still gasses and stinks when sanded after weeks.
Seen some high end cars look beautiful and develop sand scratches months later.
Seen some high end cars look beautiful and develop sand scratches months later.
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
I cut out all rot then had the car sandblasted. Then I used PPG DP 40 acid etch primer to protect the car (not high build). I then would do some body work and use a high build primer for blocking it out.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
Never heard of CRE. I'll have to look into it.
ir3333
Well-Known Member
Made by PPG.You will like it. Epoxy primer, sands nice and is also very hi build. Dries glossy and you can
see the quality of your body work. Shrinkage is near 0. PPG'S DP90 is pretty well identical but pricey and
i believe it is now DP90F?
see the quality of your body work. Shrinkage is near 0. PPG'S DP90 is pretty well identical but pricey and
i believe it is now DP90F?
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
It's DP90LF. The LF stands for lead free, from what the guy at the paint store years ago.
I like the upol high build 4:1. Easy sandin.
It will, however, swell water based OE paint lightly where it blends
ir3333
Well-Known Member
TX for the heads up.i use CRE it's more economical and my cars are not high end by any means. I try for an OE
finish.
Swells original water based paints...wow that could be a disaster!
finish.
Swells original water based paints...wow that could be a disaster!
It’s not crazy, but a customer was being picky about a bumper on a construction truck claiming he saw a huge run along the bottom of the bumper. Context, dude has a site work company, and told us he can get up to 75mph on his gravel drive before the turn. Was there for paint wear on the bumpers… imagine that
70SwingerGuy
Long Haired Freaky Person
During my time in the trade I had the opportunity to use many different paint systems, I found my favorite "primer over metal" was Sikkens EP epoxy primer, followed by Sikkens Colorbuild high build primer, serious build, sanded like a dream, and couldn't run that stuff even if you tried. The colorbuild is especially cool cause its tintable/mixable so as to minimize topcoat coverage.
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