Holley 4010 on a 318

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Proto

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I have a 74 Swinger with a 318 with a Holley 4010. Is it me or is there something stupid about this carb? I can't keep the mix right. Set the floats, n&s, blah blah blah every other time I start the car. Anyone have any insight or do I need to find something else?
 
I bought a Summit carb...very similar in operation to a 4010. I think the biggest problem with mine was loose throttle shafts, but it did have some peculiar idle quality issues. WOT was great when it was warmed up, but anything less than warmed up and I never could get the mixture correct.
 
no doubt wide open is no problem. But there are stop lights, and gas is a little expensive for sitting in Neutral with my foot on the floor.
 
Are you guys talking about idle mixture screws, or the main jets? If your idle is constantly changing you more likely have a problem with timing / vacuum advance hooked up to a wrong port or something else.
 
Proto said:
I have a 74 Swinger with a 318 with a Holley 4010. Is it me or is there something stupid about this carb? I can't keep the mix right. Set the floats, n&s, blah blah blah every other time I start the car. Anyone have any insight or do I need to find something else?
Click to expand...

The main issue with these carbs is the underside of the throttle plate. There is alot of hollows and they don't seal very well so you end up with vacuum leaks. A shop I used to deal with solved the issue by giving everyone who bought one of those carbs a flate 3mm plate that you fitted under the cabr with a gasket above and below to halp seal it better. Once I used the plate, no problems at all.

Being aluminium they do get heat soak though, so a phenolitic spacer can be a good addition to help keep the heat out of the carb.
 
Thinking about replacing it with one of these...if it fits.
[ame]http://youtu.be/DPOuEOkazVc[/ame]
 
One of the guysthat use to sell them said there was often flashing and bits inside. You may want to open them up and check all of the passages. (All as in take the PV out, the jets, the cluster) After that - happy customers.
 
Mattax said:
One of the guysthat use to sell them said there was often flashing and bits inside. You may want to open them up and check all of the passages. (All as in take the PV out, the jets, the cluster) After that - happy customers.
Click to expand...

Are you talking about the Holley, or the Street Demon that I said I am thinking about getting as a replacement?
 
the model 4010 - Holley.
Here I looked up what he wrote.
"there was ALWAYS a bunch of aluminum shavings in the accelerator pump passage that seemed to work their way up to the squirters...pull the top off of the carb and pop off the squirter nozzle...blow the passage out with carb cleaner using the stream spray tube... or a quick WOT... Put some paper towels in the throat of the carb and you could catch everything."
 
Well thanks for the advice, I went with the Street Demon. After using some helicoil to fix the stud mounts in the intake manifold, everything is smooth sailing. Hardly any adjustment needed right out of the box.
 

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Glad it worked out. At a swap meet maybe you can find a taker who wants to tinker with a 4010..

If that's not just a dust cap in the photo, look into getting an aircleaner at least as big as stock. Two features that are important are the shape of the base plate and the total resistance to airflow by the filter. The shape helps keep the air flow laminar as it enters the the air horn. Low restriction keeps the pressure the carb 'sees' close to atmosphere.
 
That is a flame arrestor that came with the car. Had never seen one before and had to look it up to find out what it was.

As soon as I get a little time, I am going to run that Holley through the parts washer and throw it up on ebay.
 
Flame arrester? I didn't know that A-bodies could float...
 
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